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Old 11-09-2019, 02:16 AM   #1
Marvelous3
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Default No low beams or dash lights. High beams work.

So I was making adapters for my ecodes so I could convert from the 9004 oem bulb to the 9003 for the ecodes. I think I may have wired the adapters backwards and blown a fuse? When I turn the light switch I donít have any dash lights and I donít have low beams. If I pull the stalk on the high beams they come on. Is there a fuse for these I may have blown? I can hear the relay click when I turn the lights on and off so it should be fine. Ideas?
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Old 11-09-2019, 05:04 AM   #2
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Something had to blow, as there's not any fuse in the circuit.

Check down low behind the brake pedal. You're lucky having a '90. That thing got moved behind the center vents in '91. There's a weak spot at the relay socket that usually doesn't need a short circuit to fail -- maybe you wired things right, but it just couldn't take the load of your new lights.



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Old 11-09-2019, 08:03 AM   #3
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Art, you are STILL the man. Probably not a better electrical resource on the 2 series than you are. Kudos.
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Old 11-09-2019, 09:40 AM   #4
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Thank you for the great response. Is there a ground for the lights somewhere? I noticed the passenger side ground is bolted to the passenger side fender.
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Old 11-09-2019, 11:42 AM   #5
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**** sorry this is my wagon which is a 91.
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Old 11-09-2019, 12:26 PM   #6
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Ah, '91 then. Yes, the ground is out by the fender.

Headlight relay isn't so easy to get to. Easier is the Bulb Failure Warning Sensor (BFWS) "relay" just above your lap. Visual inspection might reveal the problem, but a test light following the circuit is sure to. The easiest place to begin testing for voltage is at the step relay on the left inner fender. If you have power at the yellow wire (56) you know at least you won't be needing to dig behind the center vents. Check next at the green wire (56b) with the high beams off to check the step relay. If you have power there, then take down the knee bolster and drop the orange BFWS tomato can, checking for power at green, then blue, wires.





If you do have to tear into the dash, the headlight relay is the one clipped to the rail with a white socket shown below. Has a large yellow and a large green/red wire.


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Old 11-09-2019, 09:55 PM   #7
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Dug the thing out of the center console. The plug isn’t burned.

Power should come out of the red wire so if I hook a set light to it that should show me whether the relay is getting power?
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Old 11-10-2019, 12:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cleanflametrap View Post
Ah, '91 then. Yes, the ground is out by the fender.

Headlight relay isn't so easy to get to. Easier is the Bulb Failure Warning Sensor (BFWS) "relay" just above your lap. Visual inspection might reveal the problem, but a test light following the circuit is sure to. The easiest place to begin testing for voltage is at the step relay on the left inner fender. If you have power at the yellow wire (56) you know at least you won't be needing to dig behind the center vents. Check next at the green wire (56b) with the high beams off to check the step relay. If you have power there, then take down the knee bolster and drop the orange BFWS tomato can, checking for power at green, then blue, wires.





If you do have to tear into the dash, the headlight relay is the one clipped to the rail with a white socket shown below. Has a large yellow and a large green/red wire.

Okay, thank you for being patient with me.

I turn the key to position 2 and turn the lights on with my test light I do t get any light off of the yellow wire or green(I think gr is grey?) wire.
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Old 11-10-2019, 05:27 AM   #9
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Oops, yes, GR is gray, not green. Sorry that's an error I've repeated.

No juice at the yellow where it goes into the step relay under the hood is a good clue.

Back to the center vents. Trouble most likely is at that white relay socket. You should have power at the fat green/red wire all the time, and at the fat yellow wire when the key and the light switches are on. If nothing on the green/red, you can look at the other end of that behind the fuse panel - unfused side of it.

In all of the cases I've encountered this, the relay did not need to be replaced, only the one burned terminal in the socket. But yours might be different if you really did have a short circuit out there at the lamp socket.

The relay is different from most of the other similar-looking relays in your car, so be sure to match up the numbers if you swap it.

Last edited by cleanflametrap; 11-10-2019 at 05:35 AM..
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Old 11-10-2019, 05:00 PM   #10
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So after a visit to pull a part for a bulb out relay and headlight relay, I discovered the 30amp fuse in the engine bay was blown. I had very quickly looked at it days ago and it looked okay and didn’t think much of it afterwards since all the diagrams didn’t show it as part of the circuits. New fuse and everything works again.

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 11-10-2019, 05:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvelous3 View Post
So after a visit to pull a part for a bulb out relay and headlight relay, I discovered the 30amp fuse in the engine bay was blown. I had very quickly looked at it days ago and it looked okay and didnít think much of it afterwards since all the diagrams didnít show it as part of the circuits. New fuse and everything works again.

Thanks for the help guys!
Ha! I would have never guessed that. Only in our modified cars!

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