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S/V/C Yet another C30 thread

Bready

board deviant
Joined
Nov 23, 2002
My new side-kick drives a 2011 C30 R. Check engine light came on and her motor is showing "lean codes".

Her mechanic says they would need to do 4 hours of diagnostics at $125 an hour to figure out the problem.

Any of you Volvo sages familiar with common causes of that code that might help save a few $$$ in diagnostics?

Appreciate any direction as always.

:wave:
 
Last edited:
Do you mean lean? A lien code would be a banker issue.

Do you know the specific code numbers?

:lol:

Too funny I copied that out her text and she is the spelling scold between the two of us.

I'll see if I can get the code number.
 
Google is failing me on the codes. Got more info on them? You say lean code?

Does the car make a strange whistling/hum type noise? It might only be there cold, or it might only be there warm. If it makes said noise it might come and go. If the noise is there does it go away when you pull the dip stick?

Those codes, are they signal missing codes for the O2 sensor, maf sensor and possibly others?
 
I found the codes.

One is for the accelerator pedal. There is a bulletin about zip tiring the connector to apply more pressure. It is removed repeatedly foraccess to the pollen filter. Gets weak over time.

The other codes for the EVAP system could be loose gas cap/bad seal.

I'm still curious about the hum for the lean code though. The pcv trap goes bad and causes a suction leak. Throws all sorts of lean/rich codes. Usually you hear it though.
 
I found the codes.

One is for the accelerator pedal. There is a bulletin about zip tiring the connector to apply more pressure. It is removed repeatedly foraccess to the pollen filter. Gets weak over time.

The other codes for the EVAP system could be loose gas cap/bad seal.

I'm still curious about the hum for the lean code though. The pcv trap goes bad and causes a suction leak. Throws all sorts of lean/rich codes. Usually you hear it though.

Thanks Jordan as always you are an invaluable resource, really appreciate it.

Can you provide more info on the accelerator pedal bulletin and procedure? Didn't quite understand that.
 
Probably like the MAF connector on a 850.
Insert the male end into the female end of the connector.
Then just wrap a zip-tie around the two so they can't come uncopulated.
 
My V50 T5 threw all kinds of weird codes when the PCV went bad, including a lean code. The PCV system is basically a controlled vacuum leak, which turns into an uncontrolled vaccuum leak when there is a problem. It wasn't making the infamous whistle sound, but the rag test showed it was bad.
 
My V50 T5 threw all kinds of weird codes when the PCV went bad, including a lean code. The PCV system is basically a controlled vacuum leak, which turns into an uncontrolled vaccuum leak when there is a problem. It wasn't making the infamous whistle sound, but the rag test showed it was bad.

Appreciate it - what's the rag test?
 
Hold on very tight to the glove or rag, I used a rag and it sucked in so fast I almost lost it.

Suck is not good. at least not in my case.
 
Dont forget to preventatively change all the coolant hoses with the same interval as the timing belt. No coolant level sensor on these cars and the hoses are known to fail at the junctions.
 
Dont forget to preventatively change all the coolant hoses with the same interval as the timing belt. No coolant level sensor on these cars and the hoses are known to fail at the junctions.

Good advice. That lower hose does like to go poopie (I usually change the thermostat assembly while I'm in there too)

Jordan
 
Just use the Volvo hoses & tank - the DO88 hoses can rupture & leak through the layers & out the end of the hose

IMG-20191120-162711.jpg
 
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