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Kenny's 1990 740 GLE, goin' for 9's

parts cannon has been fired (though not quite everything is on order yet. some small snags, and a couple other odds and ends yet to sort out).

as part of this deal, I'm replacing the now ~ 10 year old fuel lines with something that's actually rated for use with ethanol (not really a whole lot more than replacing the lines in general, mainly just the new fittings), and ordered up 8 210lb injectors (ouch-ish). Death by a thousand cuts @ fcp (seals and gaskets and what not) and ****, I didn't order a new tensioner yet.

lift is almost finished in the shop, hoping that this evening I can get the bulk of that done, the bulk of the shop re-org done, and maybe even push the gold car back there and up on the lift to size things up and kill all the wasp nests/black widows/etc that have surely taken up residence.

Are you running 8 injectors?
 
eventually maybe. the 1600's were not liking life just on boost alone, if one set will get the job done I may part with the other 4, but it'll be a while before that's a known thing.

things that might help mitigate that: direct port nitrous instead of the current single nozzle. things that will likely hasten the upgrade to 8: bigger turbo (thinking something in the 78-80mm range)

springs/retainers/hg ordered. I think that just leaves the fuel pumps and a decision to make regarding the pumps. I'da ordered the other stuff yesterday but all of the ecommerce sites in question were having issues. One of em was still spazzing out this morning, fortunately summit carries the same **** at the same price.
 
fuel pumps left on the list (10 year old abused 044's... I dunno on those guys. I'm sure I have two working ones if not three, but... it'd be a lot of work and a real bitch to blow it up because a pump I was too cheap to replace ate ****).. I think I'm going to try and put either 2x 450's in the tank, or maybe 2x of the hellcat pumps if the mood strikes.
starting to get a little excited about it.

I was looking at those pumps with the brushless motors, I think they also do PWM so the pump comes up with boost.
I think this is one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-146
Combined with an Enderle belt driven .5 pump (since I already have 2 of those in the junk pile).

Or a single pump like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrf-mp-4703

I'm thinking a pressure sensor also as a safety so the MS can turn down the motor if the pressure falls off.

We found a bad rod in the first motor, right off the line, so lucky it did not happen at the big end!
598.jpg

Took a big hit there, that was a motorsports block with the good main caps, roller bearings for the .900" lift cam, and the lifter bores were bushed.
Still don't know if we can save the crank.
 
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I was looking at those pumps with the brushless motors, I think they also do PWM so the pump comes up with boost.
I think this is one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-146
Combined with an Enderle belt driven .5 pump (since I already have 2 of those in the junk pile).

Or a single pump like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrf-mp-4703

I'm thinking a pressure sensor also as a safety so the MS can turn down the motor if the pressure falls off.

We found a bad rod in the first motor, right off the line, so lucky it did not happen at the big end!
598.jpg

Took a big hit there, that was a motorsports block with the good main caps, roller bearings for the .900" lift cam, and the lifter bores were bushed.
Still don't know if we can save the crank.

yeah I had fuel pressure tied in to ms earlier in the car's life, but the sensor shorted internally and knocked out all the 5v stuff. I never got around to replacing it.
this time around I think I'll kick the second pump on with the ms at like 5psi or something instead of running both simultaneously all the time as I did before.

I'll probably go fuel cell in the wagon with some kind of gee whiz sender setup, but the gold car will get a modified stock hat and depending on functionality, I may just forego the fuel level sender (or find something else that'll give me a rough idea of what's going on.. not sure it worked anyway, in fact I don't think any of the gauges on the dash worked aside from maybe the speedo, but I'll play with it). Never really looked at em anyway, all the info I need is in the logs. perhaps a bright red "OH ****" light to let me know something has gone wrong :lol:
 
parts are starting to arrive. apparently one of the vendors sent my **** to an address I haven't lived at in over a decade. not sure how that passed the billing dept, but fortunately the people living there now let my folks know (it's one of their rental houses). I may still drop a nastygram off at the vendor's site, as I'm fairly certain I did not put that information in this time around, and AM certain my billing info is totally wrong.

(foolishly) thought I could get mark's 2j car to a point where I can finish tuning it and send it home... that was of course foolish on my part. replaced the in-tank pump (And during re-installation am now considering other options and reasons why it might be acting the way it does, will see), and attempted to re-seat a pin on one of the injector clips that I'd noticed had popped out when I was moving the car around. turns out several clips have... uh.. suspect.. wiring, so I'm just going to re-terminate all 6. Don't buy cheap pigtails kids (I didn't. Of course, at this point, I'm not sure price dictates quality, because I can see the same **** on amazon ranging from $8 all the way to $60, and the GM coil pigtails I bought for the blue car a few years ago were not particularly cheap either... and they were hot garbage as well). I did not buy these pigtails, so I cannot comment on their origin.
 
Don't buy cheap pigtails kids (I didn't. Of course, at this point, I'm not sure price dictates quality, because I can see the same **** on amazon ranging from $8 all the way to $60, and the GM coil pigtails I bought for the blue car a few years ago were not particularly cheap either... and they were hot garbage as well). I did not buy these pigtails, so I cannot comment on their origin.

Some of the amazon connector sets are total garbage, especially for the price.

I stumbled upon the connector kits that Prowire USA sells, it's all I use now. Bonus for cool printed heatshrink: https://www.prowireusa.com/p-2339-bosch-ev1-4-pc-connector-kit-with-90-deg-boots.aspx

More connector kits that are useful: https://www.prowireusa.com/c-84-misc-connector-kits.aspx
 
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I was gently tugging on my Goldbox wiring loom, pulling an injector wire off. GENTLY, srsly, and almost incidentally put a tiny bit of pull on the wires and they popped right on out. Had to un pin it, pry the little clamps open, reclamp, repin it. Minor aggravation, but now it makes me wonder about all the other connectors on the wiring loom. And the way the IAT stubbornly says 70 degrees no matter what (it does change if unplugged?)
 
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yeah I had fuel pressure tied in to ms earlier in the car's life, but the sensor shorted internally and knocked out all the 5v stuff. I never got around to replacing it.

I have one of those cheap ebay transducers...should I uhh, fuse the TPSREF circuit before the driver gets fried?
 
the one I had that flaked was for a defi gauge set. but yeah.. for failsafe stuff it's probably better to run quality sensors
 
injectors, headgasket, and fittings/line came in. shop cleanup is going well. hopefully I'll be able to get things cleaned up enough to slide the engine out and get started on that this evening, we'll see.

mark's wagon is currently occupying the 4 post, waiting on a new set of injector clips. it'd be really nice to get that car sorted and out of here (I'm sure he wants his car back as well), but as with many projects, the details are fighting the whole way out the door.
 
aiiiight. Still waiting on mark's injector clips to show up (today I think, or maybe tomorrow), so I got to spend time on my junk. got the shop about 90% squared away, filled the trash cans up again, and I'll be making a trip saturday AM to the "big trash" dropoff to unload a few other larger odds and ends that don't need to be around here anymore.

also got time to drag the next man up out and get started on that (though, it was 10pm when I got that time, so not much work was done). the tools made short work of it..
169907778.jpg


engine mostly stripped (of the large suff and wiring, left the intake on there for reasons) and pushed out of the way so I could put the new wagon on the lift for a look-see
169907779.jpg


box of removed stuff
169907780.jpg


in there, there's an undamaged wiring harness, idle air motor, pulse air setup (but not the egr valve, that's still floating around on the block), crank pulley and whatever else.

engine is going to get simple green/purple powered perhaps tonight, and then pressure washed probably tomorrow afternoon before decapitation and the 'next phase' starts. giggidy.
 
no pics tonight, all I did was hit it with a purple power/dawn/water mix to start breaking down the grease and ****. got mark's wagon back in tuning shape, so I'll be working on that this weekend I imagine (I honestly can't wait, I hope it acts right this time) along with whatever else I can sneak in. it may be a collection of evening sessions for the 2j wagon, as it's going to be a hectic next few days with various family related activities. I'll also probably be able to sneak in some wrench time with the 16v, so that should be fun.
 
Air compressor is dead, so no dyno time (the 2j remains strapped down however, so there is that)

the 2 day soak in purple power did not cut through decades of grime as well as I would've thought, but it got things clean enough to be serviceable.

upon disassembly, it was apparent that the car was likely having intermittent oil pressure (and/or quality) issues.. hardened/cracked transfer o-ring would be my first guess. no spun bearings or anything like that, but the journals on the crank didn't look great and the bearings themselves looked like ****. since I have an abundance of crap laying around, I just fished the crank and mains out of the 940's old bottom end (~8 months old, juust getting broken in). swapped the rods over and tossed in new rod bearings. I have a set of king bearings laying around, never ran them before, so this should be a good test to see. Clevite 77's weren't available at the time, so that's what I bought. I've since sourced a set of clevites for the stroker setup, so these were available.

I shot some video of the process, haven't stitched it together yet but I'll throw up a yootoob link when I do, going to try and track progress on this one a bit better than most of my projects.
 
I haven't heard anything bad about them, and they look the part.. it's just one of those 'don't know for sure til you try it' kind of things. I'm pretty sure they'll be fine and I'll break something else long before they're an issue.

strung the video clips from saturday together and tossed it up on youtube. camera angle is kind of weird because I normally a) don't record myself and b) had it in selfie mode trying to see what was going on while I was working. I'll try and do better next time lol

https://youtu.be/SgU17JuiZb4

and last night I worked out the relief cutting process (well, mostly)

https://youtu.be/7eARaRlzdeA

so I knew when I hit up home depot the other day I was looking for adhesive backed sandpaper, and you'd figure that would be with the rest of the sandpaper... but no. so I began to second guess myself (and I was in a bit of a hurry), grabbed some random 3m stuff and a bottle of superglue and thought "what the hell"

turns out superglue and paper do not bond... really at all. I tried several different types and processes, and that dog didn't hunt. so I googled it, re-verified that adhesive backed sandpaper does exist and should be readily available almost everywhere, checked HD's website and found it somewhere completely different.
When I stopped in last night, the front end people looked at me like I was crazy, they'd never heard of such.. so I pulled it up on the website again (And they had a fair amount of it listed online), we went to the bay location listed, and sure enough, tucked in with sander discs for floor surfacing machines, there were 12x16 sheets of said sand paper.

That works much better, and as a slight added bonus, the grit is bonded better than traditional sandpaper. Speed does seem to be the key, if you run your m12 drill on "2" full speed, it will load the paper up in about half a second and then smooth over the abrasives. 1, working up to full speed, seems to work fairly quickly, but I haven't really figured out a mean best time yet, if I can get out to the shop tonight, I'll probably work out a timer and try and finish'er on up, pop the rods and pistons back out briefly to make sure none of the grit got anywhere bad, and do the ol final assembly on the rods and pistons (and then probably also go ahead and button up the bottom end depending on available time. If not tonight, hopefully tomorrow night. lot of work to do, not just parts assembly, but once this part is done and an oil return solution has been worked out, it should start going faster. I need to sit down and work out the fuel pump situation and get those on the way I reckon, will probably do that this weekend or early next week.
 
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