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Old 06-25-2011, 09:41 PM   #1
beranimus
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Default 1990 760 wont start. Updated 7/18/11 with pics HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!

Ok so here's the run down. I have a 1990 Volvo 760 with the 2.3l turbo b230ft. A few weeks ago me and my girl friend went to the store and the car was running great. When we came back out the car wouldn't start. It turns over fine but will not start up.

Here's what I've done so far:
I originally thought the issue was the in tank fuel pump so I changed it out for a brand new one along with a filter for it. That did't solve the problem and the car still wont start.

I then replaced the spark plugs and wires and then I went under that car to look at the fuel pump and filter. Under there and discovered a damaged power wire going to the pump. I fixed the wire and also replaced the fuel filter under there. Now I got the car to start and idle really rough but then dies. I started the car again and gave it some gas. It seemed to run better, although still not good, at higher RPM but a little bit of smoke came out the tail pipe and the car ended up dieing after about a minute at higher rpm.

I have no idea what's going on with the car now. Any ideas? Could it be the fuel pump under the car? I don't want to replace it if I don't need to because they are kind of expensive.

Sorry that's so long but PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!

Last edited by beranimus; 07-18-2011 at 03:37 PM..
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:33 PM   #2
Ninja007
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It yours is a turbo I have the exact same car and was also having problems with no start recently. My first problem was a faulty crank position sensor. After I replaced that it ran good for about two months and then it wouldn't start again, so I replaced the ignition amplifier (located on the drivers side fender well close to the headlight). Runs like a champ now - others also say that the fuel pump relay (located behind the center console, mine was green but some are white) is also a problem with no start. The last thing to check would be the radio suppression relay which is mounted on the drivers side shock tower.

Everything I mentioned is a relatively cheap to purchase online as replacement parts ie. <$50 and all of those are known to go out frequently on high mileage Volvo's. Another good reference is http://www.vcoa.org/700-900-faq/FAQSummary1.html
They have a troubleshooting section that goes over all the no start symptoms and solutions. Good luck
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:49 PM   #3
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Thanks a lot. Mine is the turbo.

I don't think it's the relay because I can hear the in tank pump prime and I can hear the relay click. I pulled off the paneling to see if it was the relay and it's still off so I can hear it really well.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:49 AM   #4
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Would either the crank position sensor or the ignition amp let the car start? I did get the car to start and run very roughly for about a minute or two. Also the car kind of almost starts. It's like it really wants to but just can't. Almost as if I pulled half the plug wires off.
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:57 AM   #5
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http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=235660

Read through...loads of good suggestions.

Or...skip to the end to see what the problem really was...
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:36 PM   #6
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I ran into a bad "no-start" situation a while back.

One of the things that plauged me was the CPS, (top of bellhousing). On cold start-up it ran great, and would continue until I parked it and shut down motor. If the motor was still warm while trying to re-start, -forget it, it would not start again 'till the motor would cool down. Took me forever to find this very inexpensive remidy, but that was it.

Another little bugger that you may wish to check into is your ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) this is located under your intake between 3 and 4. Not to be confused with the block temp sensor (the one you can see). The ECT can strand you, the other just drives your dash temp gauge.

You seem to also have had some results with fuel system maint.. Just for *hits, ... take a look at your injectors, (maybe have them flow checked too. It's not that steep, and it really will give you peace of mind knowing they are clear. (about $10-15 ea. +)

Hope this helps,
good luck!
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:36 PM   #7
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I ran into a bad "no-start" situation a while back.

One of the things that plauged me was the CPS, (top of bellhousing). On cold start-up it ran great, and would continue until I parked it and shut down motor. If the motor was still warm while trying to re-start, -forget it, it would not start again 'till the motor would cool down. Took me forever to find this very inexpensive remidy, but that was it.

Another little bugger that you may wish to check into is your ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) this is located under your intake between 3 and 4. Not to be confused with the block temp sensor (the one you can see). The ECT can strand you, the other just drives your dash temp gauge.

You seem to also have had some results with fuel system maint.. Just for *hits, ... take a look at your injectors, (maybe have them flow checked too. It's not that steep, and it really will give you peace of mind knowing they are clear. (about $10-15 ea. +)

Hope this helps,
good luck!
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Old 06-26-2011, 12:37 PM   #8
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oooops!
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Old 06-26-2011, 11:36 PM   #9
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you guys are awesome!!!! thanks so much for all the help. I'm getting absolutely no where at 2 other volvo forums.
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Old 06-27-2011, 12:10 AM   #10
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perhaps you are asking the wrong questions.

i suppose the engine speed sensor is the first place to start.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:06 PM   #11
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so the car wasn't giving me any code before but now its giving me one. The code is in position 6 1-4-4
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:50 PM   #12
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http://www.nuceng.ca/workspace/Volvo...eOBDCodes.html
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:52 PM   #13
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So it's "Bad fuel injection relay; faulty wiring from LH to EZK; bad LH module". How do I fix/test for that?
Sorry I'm a volvo noob :(
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:54 PM   #14
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Ok so I put in a new Crank speed sensor today. The car started up once but ran super rough and when I depressed the gas pedal it started to die. I also ordered a new fuel injection relay that should be here tomorrow hopefully. Once I get that in I'll give it another try and keep you posted. Btw the car is still giving the DTC 1-4-1 in position 6.
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Old 07-14-2011, 11:04 PM   #15
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Fuel injection relay is in the center console. You remove the ashtray, and remove a cover from the cigarette lighter to expose screws to remove the center console cubby. You'll see a bunch of relays. A retangular white one will be the fuel pump relay.

The other likely culprit is the ECU (lh module) took a ****, and it could be very well the case with your 1990 if it still has the original LH box in it. They are 99.999% defective at this point.That is located beneath the passenger side kick panel cover , below the glove compartment. I'm placing my bets that yours has **** itself, but before condemning it look into the fuel pump relay.

Another quick check for the ECU is if it has a red label on it , then it is original and definately the culprit. If it is a white label, then it has been updated, or if it has some other indicator that it is "remanufactured", which btw means it could still be bad as alot of these "reman" ECU's are just junk.
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Old 07-15-2011, 12:08 AM   #16
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The relays on an 88-90 Volvo 760 are found behind the cover under the passenger side dash. remove this cover and you will find the relays.
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Old 07-15-2011, 02:49 AM   #17
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This is helpful I think, worth printing and keeping in the car. I do.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...98&postcount=3

and as was mentioned by someone above, the rsr, radio suppression relay, is really a 'fuel injection relay' but is not to be confused with the Fuel Pump Relay, which is in the dash. The rsr is on the shock tower or behind the left headlight.
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andysbeta View Post
Fuel injection relay is in the center console. You remove the ashtray, and remove a cover from the cigarette lighter to expose screws to remove the center console cubby. You'll see a bunch of relays. A retangular white one will be the fuel pump relay.

The other likely culprit is the ECU (lh module) took a ****, and it could be very well the case with your 1990 if it still has the original LH box in it. They are 99.999% defective at this point.That is located beneath the passenger side kick panel cover , below the glove compartment. I'm placing my bets that yours has **** itself, but before condemning it look into the fuel pump relay.

Another quick check for the ECU is if it has a red label on it , then it is original and definately the culprit. If it is a white label, then it has been updated, or if it has some other indicator that it is "remanufactured", which btw means it could still be bad as alot of these "reman" ECU's are just junk.
Ok so I looked at the ecu and took some pics. There were 2 "loose" wires. I dont know where they go if anywhere. I have a pic of the ecu too. Do I need to replace the ecu. Also to help with the "loose" wire placement I have a list of empty pins on the ecu connector.
Empty pins: 3, 10, 11, 16 , 23, 26, 27 and 31 are all empty. Not sure if they are supposed to be or not.











Would be SO AWESOME to actually have a working car
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:14 PM   #19
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Forgot to say the ECU isn't putting out any DTC codes now. But still won't start obviously
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:08 PM   #20
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Who wrote the numbers on it? Do you know anything about that?
Where it's a 967, but someone wrote 937 seems to indicate that some rewiring was done.
If that's the case, you'd best know if there are any other oddities about what the car is set up with/modded. I don't know enough about it to know particulars, but someone may.
I think a 937 is a non/EGR turbo ECU.
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:08 PM   #21
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another two-fer

Last edited by jerryc; 07-18-2011 at 08:14 PM..
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:39 PM   #22
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I don't know anything about the writing on it. I got the car about 3 months ago from some wierd ass mechanic thats first language was definatly not english. I drove it around for a month and then this....
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:47 PM   #23
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Oh and I ran the VIN once and from what I can remember my 760 is a non EGR. could be wrong tho
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:18 PM   #24
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Ass mechanics are often not reliable. If they're weird, well... who knows what

I think you got trouble, right there in River City. The loose wires prolly need to be traced, but maybe you'd be lucky and find the 'correct' ECU and that'd fix it all. Best is to see what is original, is the motor? and find out from the PO why/how/what/where/when, things were changed. Is there a smog issue in your state?
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:09 PM   #25
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No smog issue where I live.
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