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Old 12-22-2020, 05:53 AM   #1
Hilding
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Default Volvo 745 -91, lifted, B234+MS and back again

IDK.
Volvo stuff I guess, giving something back to the forums. No matter if it's appreciated or not.
Please note this is from the last 2 years since I got the car. It's not really my primary project right now.
But it's alive, which is more then I can say for the other stuff I got going on.

Lifting
2018 April
Got some thick tires (27" I think) after seeing someone on here lifting a 240.

(I don't know why the thumbnail looks weird, please click to see a cat, this is not starting well)

Then I got the car to go along with the "lift"-project, 1991 Volvo 745.
No frills at all. B230 with Regina och a M47.
A modest beginning that would soon bloom into, eeeh, feeling content?
I changed oils and filters before all this, promise.


Comparing the wheels, there will be some minor issues.


Can kind of turn the front wheels at this point, and they rub (alot) against the spring perch which I solved at the time with a sledge.


I extended the front tubes, legs, what do you call them, by 5 cm. Still using the standard shocks so I put a piece of tube inside for the shock to rest on. I didn't take any picture of it but I also did the chambermod to compensate the longer tubes.


For the rear I used hockey pucks pressed into 3" tubes to get around 5 cm.




Since shock and spring are by themselves in the rear, and still using standard length shocks, I needed to also compensate the mountingpoint for the shock to keep at least the standard travel length of the suspension.



Rear resulted in this:


And overall, with 5 cm lift on 27" wheels:



I tried out some stuff, more exciting tests where not recorded, but the trauma never fades.
This is kind of a nice picture, with the flowers and stuff:


Guten tag


It's not much, but it's better then before




Enjoyed the outdoors after this for a bit. I got a lot more confident once I got the locker in the rear, but that's later.


EDIT:
Found more pictures from this part.
Got spacers in steel to fix the turningproblem.


And after scraping the pan during some of my small adventures I made a guard och sorts, the aim was to be able to rest the car on it.


Last edited by Hilding; 12-22-2020 at 07:31 AM.. Reason: more stuff
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Old 12-22-2020, 06:43 AM   #2
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B234

Got lucky seeing a local ad for a B234 with all the wiring and boxes, for 2000 sek.
Even luckier being the first one to call.
I have always wanted to try a B234 in all their glory so I kept it simple, no turbos, sorry to disappoint.

Started out with removing the balancingshafts and plugging the oil holes (hah, oil holes) as described somewhere on these forums, or was it sävar?
The oil inlet I did by my own idea, to not have to tap the hole directly in the block:





The oil outlet I did by the classic route, using wheelstuds from a 240.




As there was nothing wrong with the engine, I just checked the belt, changed the filter och started moving it into the car:



There was some trouble in doing this, the b234 is a bit different from the b230.
It's a little narrower, and in the 740s that came with the engine, the mounts where quite different.
Original uses another type of crossmember and other, ah whats the word, pillows. No, that's not right.
I made some "temporary" solutions, that became permanent.








EDIT: found pictures of the powersteeringpump bracket I made for the b234
Location of the ps-pump is opposite when comparing b230 and b234, and I didn't want to mess with the pump it self so I made a bracket to mount it on the b230-side.


To adjust I use washers.


Had no trouble with the belt once it was installed. I don't remember if I used a longer, or maybe shorter, belt.


I wanted to try getting it running with Regina, not sure why at this point.
But I did and to anyone wondering if you can,well yes, but no.
It will start, kind of, and it would idle, kind of. As long as the weather was good.
As soon as we got below 0 c it would not start.

The remedy for this was naturally not to install the ECU and all the accessories that came with the engine,
but instead spend most of winter installing a megasquirt 2 that I had managed to get my hands through a not so local ad.

Last edited by Hilding; 12-22-2020 at 07:39 AM.. Reason: ps-bracket
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Old 12-23-2020, 04:54 AM   #3
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I gutted an old vacuum cleaner and made and tailpipe adapter to minimize the risk of dying.
Works surprisingly well, and the vacuum still works. Just need to remember opening it up after use since there is quite a lot of water (condensation?)




I got the MS2 from a guy who had used it on a 240, don't remember how much boost he had run but he told me it ended up needing an extra row of injectors.
He had run it with COPs and some funny setup for crank trigger, something like 8-1 points.
As we were talking his two small children were running around like hurricanes in the small house with several renovation projects under way.
There was a glimmer in his tired eyes as he recalled the glory days of old.
Then it faded as he told me he had sold of almost everything.
But he fully intended to get started again "soon".
I hope you do, random-dude-I-met-through-the-internet.


It's a little funny how the things one often spends the most time with, results in the least amount memories.
I made a mess, I remember that.

Then I made it worse.


The MS was as noted above already modified for COPs, so I kept on the path and went with this instead:


Removing the weight-thing from the firewall left a suitable place for mounting it.
I remember reading that they are ok being mounted on the engine, but this was easier, I think.



I think the leads are from a golf vr6, just four of them, since, you know.


I have a whole bunch of pictures detailing miscellaneous wires and components, all of them important at the time. Now, I can't quite recall.


Troubleshooting spark I did this, sure was pretty once it worked. Note the grounding.


Eventually I got both spark and fuel, packaging in the glovebox that was temporary, became permanent:


The trick is, if you close it, it's fine!


For idle I used the original valve-thingy, but my box was not modified to do anything other than on/off.
So I went along with that and instead adjusted the amount of air that bypassed the throttle with this:




That's the top end of an old shock, I think the hole is 5 mm, put in the hose that is between the airfilterbox and the idle-valve-motor-thing.
I don't remember the settings exactly, but the valve was open (sucking air through the 5 mm restrictor) until something like 60c coolant temp, idle when warm was adjusted with the throttle valve.
This makes for an low idle (~700) when cold, then it climbs quite a bit (~1100), until temp is high enough and the idle valve suddenly closes, making for an equally sudden drop to normal idle (~850).

I then spent quite a lot of time learning to tune it in somewhat. It ran really nice.
Most thanks to autotune, auto cold-start-thing och megalogviewers analyzer.
Seeing what changes they made and the difference made it easier for me to understand.
There is always something to tweak, or test.
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Old 12-29-2020, 05:32 AM   #4
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Made myself en engine kart, wagon, thing-on-wheels

Since the original engine was kind of in the way, sitting in an old tire on the floor.

Like lemon juice in the eye


I was anguished over the spacers and tried my hand at flipping the center of an Volvo 850 rim

I was as serious as I can be.

It worked out, but I only did the one, then I got distracted by other things. The pile of rims are still in the garage, reminding me of my lacking devotion. (2019 july)
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Old 12-29-2020, 06:00 AM   #5
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I had got complaints about the windshield during inspection the year before, they just told be to get it fixed until next year. Naturally I thought about it (anguish) all year right up to the last day for the following inspection. And the engine swap wasn't going to fly either, so the 740 got some time off again.

I bought this from some strange man down south


Got the old one out


Fixed some minor damage to the paint


Cleaned of the old and put on some new but-... butyl-... bytul-.... sticky black stuff, not glue, the string-on-a-roll.


Put the new windshield in (after testing it, marking position with tape)


Aaaaand it didn't get even, or something,
there where gaps where the black stuff was not touching the glass at all.
So I (with numbing fear) put it under pressure


Good thing with the black string stuff, it stays a bit soft.
I kept it like this for two weeks I think, increasing pressure one click at a time (no breathing)
always expecting there to be a CRACK-noise and commiting sudoku as the only way out of this hell.

But it worked out fine, to this day there are still no cracks or any leaking in.


I then swapped back the B230, I tried to get through inspection with the megasquirt but I had trouble with it running a bit rich,
and then I started losing crank signal so I removed the ms and put back the regina.
Found this picture showing the space left from the intake to the brake reservoir when it had the b234

Last edited by Hilding; 12-29-2020 at 06:02 AM.. Reason: bad spelling
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:33 AM   #6
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Found a picture detailing the fine tuning of how much air cold idle would get.
I drilled it a little to big (high idle on cold) and since undrilling a hole is annoying I put some wire in it.
To really get that last rpms just right.


As my brain kept telling (after owning a jeep and a subaru forester briefly)
that real cars, no longer just need to be rear wheel drive, but also must have low-range.
I found myself buying what is usually used to make EPAs or A-tractors comply with the speed limits set for them at 30 km/h. An adapter kit for mounting a m40 at the end of a m90.
I happened to have a m90, and clutch. And an uncle who has seven or eight m40s.

I still have not put it in the car, but once I do, I'm sure it'll be great.
As I often do, I forgot to take pictures before starting, it makes more sense to the end.

To start of I blocked of the reverse gear in the M40.
Drilled a hole and tapped it so that I could put a screw in the rod through the ball-and-spring-hole.





The lift makes for good workspace, a poor excuse for not cleaning any of the actual workspaces.


The kit I bought comes with a high-low gear option, illegal on the tractors (but kids do it any way).
Drill and tap the end of the rods

Remove on ball&spring and shorten the remaining spring (otherwise it gets really hard to shift)


And screw on the little gear selector at the rod ends



This makes for shifting between first gear or forth gear. 3.something and 1:1.

Linkage for the gear selector


It might do better with an actual bearing, as it just is a stack of smaller washers topped off with a larger one.
I didn't design it, it's probably fine.

The M40 gets an adapter so that it fits the hardy-disc (name?) on the 740s driveshaft.


Then on the M90 you put an adapter on the hardy for the splines on the M40.

You can also se how the cage connecting the two gearboxes mounts to the M90.
The M40 is just screwed on the cage.

All this makes for a loooong transmission

And heavy, too. Nearly 80 kg, but it's weight in the right place.


I'm just going to get an extra M90 driveshaft to shorten aaand figure out a nice way of getting an extra shifter in the car.
I wrote down somewhere what first gear on the M90 and the M40 results in, but I lost the note.
I think it took twelve turns on the M90 to get one turn on the M40 output.
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Old 01-07-2021, 06:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
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All this makes for a loooong transmission


I'm just going to get an extra M90 driveshaft to shorten aaand figure out a nice way of getting an extra shifter in the car.
That.
Is.
Impressive.
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Old 01-07-2021, 09:10 PM   #8
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Holy **** this thing is rad- looking forward to seeing more.
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Old 01-08-2021, 11:55 AM   #9
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What a great project, keep it up!
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Old 01-20-2021, 02:38 AM   #10
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Thank you for the encouraging comments.
I'll keep adding more until up to date.

I am a bit interested in alternative fuels, it's just cool and gives me a little hope that I can keep my cars running in the future.
I had earlier tried my hand at reshaping the needle in an SU-carb for my Amazon to run on E85, it ran great.
Super pleased, until it just died. It dawned on me after an hour or so that the tank was empty.
Which was weird, I'd put like 10 liters of E85 in it, and the engine had just been running like 10 minutes with light driving.
There had to be a hole or something, so I put 1 liter of E85 in a bottle that I ziptied in the engine compartment.
I was both pleased and relived when it started up again, maybe I wasn't an idiot.
Then I put first gear in and started to drive it to it's parking spot, and it died again.
Frustrated I opened the hood thinking the bottle had come loose, but no, it was still in it's place, but empty.
Oh no, I am an idiot.
By my hand I had managed to reshape a needle into a black hole that made the engine suck in fuel at an approximate rate of 1 liter / 5 meters.
To this day I'm reluctant to believe myself, it's probably wrong, I mean it can't have. It's impossible.
Am I really an idiot?

Anyway this was meant to be a short introduction to that time I mounted an E85 sensor in the 740 but now my ego is hurt again so here, here are some pictures. whatever



It's the usual Goodyear sensor, three wires, it just works.
MS2 is a bit simple in the managing of e85 but it works ok.
Hey, I can at least bend a piece of metal and drill two holes, right?

Maybe collecting stamps is fun.
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Old 01-20-2021, 03:09 AM   #11
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I did try to do something about the,ehm, mess in the glove box.
It was a bit hard to find the right wire, the right fuse or the right relay when everything is mixed up like spaghetti with meatballs.
Since I'm cheap I made this



yeah, I had to open the glove box to check the o2-sensor.

I think, this is from when I gave up on the ms2 to pass inspection.
Nothing to see, but it marks in time when that was.

I recall there being a lot of wiring, since I'd left everything from regina/rex in place.

I had some trouble with the. With the. ehm, "chuck"?
Something about wood? Woodchuck?
Or was it something about peg, pegging?
The metal piece that keeps the round thing in front of the engine, in the right place on the crankshaft.
It was worn and was difficult to find when putting the round thing back on.
So I made an extra

Ah yes, here you can se an example of the precision on my work. Butchering, call it what you want.

I didn't have a grind-thing so I made one for my lathe, that I bought from some dude my neighbor knows.
800 sek / ~80 usd, from somewhere around 1890.

The chuck/peg/thing goes in the grove on the crankshaft that the small sprocket for the cam belt goes in.

Then I just needed to add a grove on the round thing, I really can't recall it's name in english right now.


I cut it like | | and then I did a X and then I think I used my Dremel to grind down the ^
You get to imagine the hand gestures to go along with that explanation yourself.


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Old 01-20-2021, 03:25 AM   #12
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Woodruff key.
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Old 01-20-2021, 04:32 AM   #13
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After finally passing inspection, I didn't do anything with the volvo for a while.
But judging by my photography, I had at some time earlier installed my SPARTAN LOCKER.
Those things work great, they really do exactly as described.
Which is also a pain in the neck when you go shopping and need to navigate the parking lot, that they had the audacity to put asphalt on.
Fun but inconvenient

back to boring but smooth


I drove it with open diff most of that summer, it could not stand for long.
I have had a 940 that I put a torsen in, back before I got a house.
Then I happened upon a thread around here about affordable LSD.
I snickered to myself, thinking it would be yet another thread where hopes were to be crushed.
But instead I found myself seeing hope. There was talk about Racingdiffs and their self made clutch LSD kit for 1030/1031.
So I bought one, despite the negative and realistic talk that things would wear out.
Cat is back


I love my lift, pure love, no doubt, no shades of grey, just the same pure love that I have for my robot grass mower.

Cleaned the diff house

Stuff

Taking it apart

Oh no reading, good thing there are a lot of pictures. Too bad I can't focus and look at them in the right order.

I think this is the original pin, note that this is not the same diff as the locker, that one is stored intact.

The ducking hole didn't match up so I couldn't get the thing through so I made the hole weirder

Hard/strong springs in compression makes me nervous

I took a crowbar in the teeth a few years ago and after that, well let's just say I don't smile while doing things like this

Lining em up so I can shove my rod in there

Can breath again



You can tell I've been here before

Such yellow

Such blue


!


I did reply to that thread after installing my lsd kit. At the time I was pleased with it's smooth function.
And now a number of months later I can still say the same.
It works great in the snow.
But, there is a but, my speedo has gone from working, to working most of the time and to not working at all, or showing 153km/h. No matter what speed.
I fear metal shavings sticking to the sensor, but it did work for a while after I crawled under one day (before the snow) and pushed the plug on a bit so maybe it's just a little loose, please?

I haven't had the chance to get the volvo back in the garage since installing the lsd.
There are other things going on in there.
Not a volvo but might be fun to see.
Poor dad, he has suffered enough, I'll at least make him anonymous. Maybe covering his mustache would be more efficient.

Can you tell what it is?
It's suffering made material.

My uncle has not suffered enough but I'll black out his eyes, like a criminal

Spinny-thingy


I apologies for tainting this place of Volvo with, other, things.

I'm almost up to date, the suffering above is after the latest project on the 740.
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Old 01-20-2021, 04:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Woodruff key.
Thank you, It would have kept bugging me.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galium_odoratum
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Old 01-26-2021, 04:46 AM   #15
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I found coolant on the passenger floor.
It could only mean one thing, the heater core.
Flashbacks from changing it on the 240 haunts me to this day.
On some 740 och I think all 940 you can access the core without needing to remove the whole thing.
My 740 is a -91 so it is possible to get two screws out and then just sliiide out the core.
In my case I couldn't quite find the head of the screws, and it sounds easy but it's really uncomfortable.
So I went the long way, removing everything so that I could have the whole heating system on a table.



Oh yeah it's really nice and easy looking at the pictures, but I still remember, toiling for hours upon hours to get to this point. Oh woe.


The car will never be the same again.


non-oem core, should just fit right in.


Old core, I think the screws turned out to be T25, or T20... or T15.


There's the leak, at least this wasn't in wain.


Yuck


The new core was suppose to fit but no, dimensions are right and the connections are right but the lid did not quite fit.


And in the middle was a gap, that I filled with fluff


I also made sure to replace the faucet (not sure what you call it in english)


Naturally I broke some tab that hold the faucet in place, that I replaced with junk,
and the new faucet disconnected from the wire when going back and forth,
so I put some more junk in the way so that it doesn't drop down and disconnect.





And done.


The heat is not quite volvo-heat but it works fine.
Feels good to have have a new windscreen and new heater core. The worst things are dealt with.
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Old 01-26-2021, 11:10 AM   #16
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Really cool project, I like what you've done so far!
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Old 02-05-2021, 01:54 AM   #17
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Really cool project, I like what you've done so far!
Thanks!


After the heater core the Saab took over the garage and there hasn't been any more work done on the 740.
It's been doing it's duty as my daily.
Hauling Saab-stuff, funny how there is so many parts for old saabs but so few actual cars left.



I did get new winter tires.
Don't remember the numbers but these are in total 26", compared to the usual 27" I have in summer.
Lifted in the rear but normal in the front.

Painted the rims black, which is boring, can't tell whats tire and what's rim.
I went with 26" so that there would be no clearance issues. Since the garage is occupied.

I do have new shocks, springs and turn-things-on-top that will be going on the longer struts.
And then there is the quest of getting the looong dual-gearbox setup installed.
Since I'm doing that I might as well swap the engine and there are several choices from my pile of treasure (scrap some say).
b234+lh2.4 (I could register this and get it legal)
b230+16v head + lh2.4 or ms2 in case of turbo.
b230+ms2+turbo (I have turbos, a pre-90 manifold (super-cheap) and an intercooler with all the piping hoses)
Or you know, I could just leave it alone, the original engine is fine.
It's not the big parts that are the problem, it's all the little ones in between that are not listed.

It'd be great progress if I just washed it properly when spring comes.
Or got the speedometer working again.
Oh yea I also got my hands on a 1030 with 4.10, that'd be neat with low range. Hmmmm
A wash it is.
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Old 02-19-2021, 03:22 AM   #18
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I've done something.
It should have been a quick thing but it turned into more.

Got the SAAB out into the cold:


Got the 740 up on the lift:


Changed the oil and filter, which was high time, been a little over a year:


Got a new battery since I had some generator problems some week ago that resulted in draining the battery in the cold:


Oh no:


**** me I put my hand on it and it's like soaked cardboard:


I did have some faint memory of knowing about a hole under the battery tray, but I had ignored it and then forgotten about it:


It was a challenge finding clean-ish metal to weld on, I had a hard time getting motivated making it good:


Got it together good enough:


Painted it several layers and dropped the battery in the next day:

Hope it holds for a couple of years.
30 minute adventure turned into 5 hours of "fun".

Side-note, I checked the speedometer sensor and it wasn't so bad:

But yes, there are metal shavings after running the LSD for about 6 months.
Cleaned up and got the plug back in (the connection was looking good when I took it out)
aaaand now I never get any reaction in the speedometer.
I'm hoping it's just a connection loose in the instruments after I took everything apart for the heater.
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Old 03-04-2021, 04:06 AM   #19
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I'm done, all goals are met for the year,
I washed it!
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Old 05-04-2021, 09:39 AM   #20
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It's a pain to download the images and then uploading them to the host I've been using, so I'm going to try linking images directly from google photos.

I've done something, nothing too exciting.
Moving (very) slowly towards getting the dual transmission in.
Mentally to the point where I think the stock engine and management is fine

These are the extended struts I had in the car previously.


I bought a bunch of parts pre-winter, thinking I would get a complete setup without the need to take the other struts apart every time to use the shocks, springs and what not.

Put on new shields, took apart the bearings and got new grease in, cleaned and painted.


It took more fiddling with a long screwdriver then I'd like to admit to get my bottom extenders out, made them too long so I barely got enough threads on the nuts holding everything together.



I love you pre-1900 lathe, never leave me

For some reason I didn't feel like welding sooo I did the next best thing, filled the cups with hotglue.


The forbidden gummy


The day after it looks like something unrelated, or is it?


Flashing my wealth before it's never seen again.
There are some bags in the upper part that I have no idea what they are, and if one counts parts, something is missing.


I'm missing a nut. But for some strange reason I rummaged through my scrap and found a new-ish one of an other model, the treads are the same so win, right?


WRONG, the Bilstein shocks are the same width all the way and the walls on the nut thinner.
I got the shocks from a place several months ago, most of what they sell has damaged packaging and thus a lower price. I'm guessing the missing nut escaped and they didn't notice. The boxes where taped together in the ends. I like to have good faith in people. They may also have noticed and said **** it.


And once more, my 800 sek (~80$) lathe saves me.
I sure ducking hope the nut is strong enough, when it's in the car the nut only ever gets load if the wheels are mid-air. Where would one get just the bilstein nut otherwise?



And at this point, whilst assembling I realize some things are missing, some crucial things.


I hate working with things that are in tension, things that might not kill me, but if things go south, I might wish they did compared to the aftermath.
Remember children, if it can hold a car, it can break you in ways you don't want to imagine.


You need to put it in waaaay more tension to get them out. Use good tools.



Also in the theme of safty, or lack of it.
If you are and cheap person like myself and reuse the nylock nuts for the joints, drill a hole in the end of the screws so that you can get a pin/wire in there, just in case.
I think there are some that have holes pre-drilled?

I feel like an arsonist telling others to mind candles.



Pulling in my shorted wheel screws in the hubs.



Gotta torque the nuts on the spacers (remember children, steel spacers for steel rims) but got no friends or loved ones? Or you just want to be left alone?
Make yourself a new friend, a stick, to hold the brake.


Hurray, another weekend spent doing good in the world.


Finally the volvo is the same height front and back.
Or is it?? (took a drive before measurement)
Front:

Back:


This annoys me quite a lot.
I have some fuzzy memory about putting the rear spacers (for the springs) in the lathe and taking them down some. I think I had a good reason.
I'll do something about it.


Other then the front suspension I found why there has been a clunking sound in the back, the exhaust is loose.

Made a new one from the thinnest metal I had, it's good for this summer I think.



I also am at the moment trying to find why the speedometer won't work more than sporadically.
The sensor in the rear seems fine (~800 ohms), saw someone on the internets that got it working again after re-soldering the speedometer.


That is before re-soldering, I don't have a picture after, imagine the solders being a bit shinier.
I'll be putting it back in the car today, hope it works, I think I got all the spots.

Last edited by Hilding; 05-04-2021 at 09:40 AM.. Reason: spelling, I check and check and still notice something after posting.
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Old 05-04-2021, 10:05 AM   #21
volvowagoon
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Nice work! I hope your speedometer works now.
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