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Old 12-20-2017, 08:30 PM   #51
dbarton
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Found some pads made by Mirka that go to 2500 grit.
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Old 12-20-2017, 10:26 PM   #52
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From my experience if you polish a matte surface, it will add shine.
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Old 12-20-2017, 11:04 PM   #53
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# 2500 is almost polish
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Old 12-20-2017, 11:36 PM   #54
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In 3M:
Red is about 320- 400 grit
Grey is about 600-800 grit
White is about 1000
I would practice on a piece of scrap painted with the SEM paint with the grey. Don't be surprised if all of the paint comes off. Just a light scuff.
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:43 AM   #55
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Thanks. I'll get some and try some experiments.
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:44 AM   #56
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I'm a little confused. So no recommendation?

Your pic you posted is actually not Scotchbrite. It's called Bear-Tex and the gray silicone carbide "micro-fine" seems to be the finest they have. It's only rated at equal to 00 steel wool or 400-600 sandpaper. 600 paper will take the paint right off, so that may be too abrasive for this. Scotchbrite's finest seems to be the same.

I'm wondering though . . . if I use something like this to "polish" a flat paint, will it make it more flat or more gloss?
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I would think you'd just wind up with scratches and swirls.
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:08 PM   #57
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You might consider glass bead blasting, or even walnut shells...get a very fine grit and turn the regulator way down...should give a nice finish.
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:38 PM   #58
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You might consider glass bead blasting, or even walnut shells...get a very fine grit and turn the regulator way down...should give a nice finish.
Yet another tool I don't have. If I only had room for all the cool tools.

Someone on here with a surplus of cool tools and time should collect a bunch of the pods and do this. After it's done once and the processes are set, I think the speed would be fast enough to be a relatively profitable service. That is, if owners of all those pods are interested.
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Old 12-21-2017, 01:00 PM   #59
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Yet another tool I don't have. If I only had room for all the cool tools.

Someone on here with a surplus of cool tools and time should collect a bunch of the pods and do this. After it's done once and the processes are set, I think the speed would be fast enough to be a relatively profitable service. That is, if owners of all those pods are interested.
Dave
Check out this thread...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=338428
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:14 PM   #60
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Hopefully you don't get too many $5k to $10k quotes for making an injection mold. I've inquired a few times over the years in Taiwan and other Asian countries for much, much smaller molds for reproducing harness connectors and the mold quotes pretty much cured me of ever asking again.
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Old 12-21-2017, 03:05 PM   #61
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dried SEM trim paint is very flexible, you're not going to be able to sand any kind of finish onto it.
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Old 12-21-2017, 03:26 PM   #62
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Quote:
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Hopefully you don't get too many $5k to $10k quotes for making an injection mold. I've inquired a few times over the years in Taiwan and other Asian countries for much, much smaller molds for reproducing harness connectors and the mold quotes pretty much cured me of ever asking again.
Dave
I went to a place here in the states to look into making a mold for some Volvo 240 stuff. Very honest place, they signed a no compete/reproduce clause before I showed them my design/ ideas. They said it was standard procedure for them. The mold was over $5k. Funny, when I asked if I could take it home he laughed. What did I Know? He took me to the back of the facility to show me where they make them and said I would not be able to move the thing. Showed me "small" molds for toys and such that weighed about a ton or two.
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Old 12-21-2017, 04:30 PM   #63
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dried SEM trim paint is very flexible, you're not going to be able to sand any kind of finish onto it.
Yeah. I'll be trying something else shortly.
Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:55 PM   #64
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Meanwhile here's some progress.

This is more PVC, but it's not 1/4 inch. I needed a couple 3/16 inch thick pieces and I didn't have that size, so I glued three 1/16 inch thick pieces together using PVC glue. Once dry, I was able to trim and grind/carve them like they were always one piece.

You'll see what these are for shortly.

Dave
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File Type: jpg repropod24.jpg (158.3 KB, 240 views)
File Type: jpg repropod25.jpg (159.2 KB, 239 views)

Last edited by dbarton; 12-21-2017 at 07:14 PM..
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:03 PM   #65
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Those 3/16 inch pieces are spacers that will go between the front face plate and the rear plate that holds the gauges. That spacer is needed to clear the gauge bezel ring thickness.

The back piece that will hold the gauges got three 2 1/16 inch holes. If you're curious how I lined them up to the front face plate, I drilled the hole centers on the back piece at the same time I drilled center pilot holes on the front piece before cutting any holes out with the hole saws.

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Attached Images
File Type: jpg repropod26.jpg (137.9 KB, 238 views)
File Type: jpg repropod27.jpg (98.6 KB, 238 views)
File Type: jpg repropod28.jpg (132.3 KB, 238 views)

Last edited by dbarton; 01-06-2019 at 02:17 PM..
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:07 PM   #66
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As you can see above, the spacers are held on to the back piece by screws. They were then glued to the front face plate using PVC glue.

Dave
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File Type: jpg repropod29.jpg (129.9 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg repropod30.jpg (148.5 KB, 238 views)
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Old 12-21-2017, 07:13 PM   #67
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These spacers will also give me more support when I cut deeper vertical lines into the front face plate.

And now you can see the gauges mounted in the combined faceplates. Some small and easy adjustments will be needed to make the gauges all perfectly centered in the bevels. That will be done by some grinding on the holes in the back plate.

Dave
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Attached Images
File Type: jpg repropod32.jpg (122.1 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg repropod33.jpg (118.5 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg repropod34.jpg (109.8 KB, 238 views)
File Type: jpg repropod35.jpg (114.5 KB, 238 views)

Last edited by dbarton; 12-21-2017 at 07:18 PM..
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Old 12-22-2017, 12:57 PM   #68
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I'm working on mounting the gauge assembly into the pod shell.

Here is a view showing two PVC blocks I cut down and epoxied in to hold the assembly. I also need to add some blocks where the circles are, but I plan to make them so that it can also be secured with a screw on each end. I'll have that figured out soon enough.

And a front view below with the assembly in the shell. I did cut the vertical slots deeper (about 3/16 inch), but I haven't painted yet.

Dave
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File Type: jpg repropod37a.jpg (130.1 KB, 209 views)
File Type: jpg repropod36.jpg (112.4 KB, 208 views)
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Old 12-22-2017, 03:59 PM   #69
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WOW. By the time you're done it's gonna be hard to tell it apart from a real one
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Old 12-22-2017, 05:59 PM   #70
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Does the real one have all these parts?
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Old 12-22-2017, 06:21 PM   #71
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Does the real one have all these parts?
No. A real one was constructed differently. impolvo just sold one with broken parts, but there are links to pics of the inner structure in his thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=338482
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Last edited by dbarton; 03-29-2019 at 11:44 AM..
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Old 12-22-2017, 06:26 PM   #72
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WOW. By the time you're done it's gonna be hard to tell it apart from a real one
Maybe from a distance or to someone who doesn't know the details or difference. My goal isn't to fool anyone, but I would like it to look like it belongs on my 242 dash. I didn't think it did before these mods. We'll see when I'm done.

Here's a pic on the dash.
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Old 12-22-2017, 07:35 PM   #73
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Guess the OE one used the speaker holes. Can't see anyone wanting to drill holes in their dash. You do nice work.
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:10 PM   #74
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Dave, a question about the orientation of the gauges.

IIRC, doesn't the normal 3 gauge pod have a slight driver orientation? Does the OEM above dash pod have a driver orientation? Does it even matter? Would this be something we could work toward if possible?
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Old 12-22-2017, 10:41 PM   #75
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The standard 240T in dash setup does point slightly to the driver. The dash top gauge pod does not.. But since these are set back further from the driver, I think it'll look fine.

I briefly considered cutting angled holes for the gauges, but in the spirit of making this more like a Volvo pod, I left them straight. If I don't like it later, I can make a new front face with angled gauge holes.
Dave

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