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S/V/C 2001 S40 P0015 code

alschnertz

alschnertz

Enough already!
Joined
Oct 4, 2009
Location
CT
2001 S40, 264,000 miles

P0015
Am I wrong to think this code could be a failing or failed VVT solenoid?
I have reset this code twice in as many weeks.

I checked the timing belt alignment marks and they appear to be correct.
There doesn't seem to be any slack in the timing belt.
The oil has always been changed every 5,000 miles.
The VVT sprocket, timing belt and tensioner were changed at 182,000 miles.

I'm going to remove the solenoid and see if I can clean it.
I'd also like to know if someone could point me to any diagnostic procedure to test the solenoid.
Thanks.

Edit: I should have added that the car still starts easily.
Idles and drives normally, and the gas mileage remains at about 32 mpg like normal.
And it's due for its biennial emission test in three weeks. Of course this issue just pops up now!
 
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Without looking up the code- if it actually is a VVT code, yes, I'd pull and clean the solenoid.

Also, they have (or should/could) a little metal screen/filter on the gasket. Often these will plug up and cause the code.

I'd order the new gasket, and clean the solenoid.

Jordan
 
GTJordan said:
Without looking up the code- if it actually is a VVT code, yes, I'd pull and clean the solenoid.
I found codes online and saw "Camshaft Position Actuator B Bank 1 Timing over - retard".
Also saw "Camshaft Position Sensor", but my gut says the CPS is not it.

Also, they have (or should/could) a little metal screen/filter on the gasket. Often these will plug up and cause the code.

After removing the unit, I was pleasantly surprised how clean it was. Like no build-up at all. I just wiped it down to clean it.

I'd order the new gasket, and clean the solenoid.

I agree, but I'm an old Scot. The gasket looks good, I'll clean it off and see if it holds. If not, I WILL change it.

Jordan
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply.
See my comment/replies above.

I pulled it apart to clean/reassembled it. It was a bit sticky, but it eventually came apart.
Looks pretty good now on the bench, but will have to wait till tomorrow to reinstall.

Thanks
 
Dammit.
CEL is back on with the P0015 again.
I noticed that when the CEL comes on, it's always immediately on a cold start (8 hrs +/-).
I wonder if that's a clue.

I bench tested the solenoid with a 9V battery after cleaning and it moved freely back and forth.

I haven't tested the plug for voltage yet.
Is there a diagnostic procedure for that?
 
Check resistance spec of the solenoid and the voltage going to it. I think on cold start it's supposed to energized to max dwell.
 
If the circuit were open, I would expect driveability issues. You likely have a failing solenoid or failed actuator. Or possibly a belt/tensioner issue.

I use a scan tool to command the solenoid/actuator, but the condition is usually intermittent.

If I were you, I would probably replace the solenoid valve and re-check.
 
When it does this, check the oil on the dipstick to see if it's foamy. Pickup and transfer seals on the oil pan can go bad and start leaking oil internally or sucking air into the oil pump. If it's cold start, how thick of oil are you running? There might be a delay of oil flow to the top end?
 
PCH said:
Check resistance spec of the solenoid and the voltage going to it. I think on cold start it's supposed to energized to max dwell.
Click to expand...

Wish I could track down the resistance spec. but there's no part number on the solenoid.
After some searching online I saw someone post that it should be 3.7 ohms on a Volvo S60 of the same vintage. Maybe this is the same? Can you clarify what you mean by "max dwell"? Do you just mean 13-14 volts when cranking?

ZVOLV said:
You likely have a failing solenoid or failed actuator. Or possibly a belt/tensioner issue. If I were you, I would probably replace the solenoid valve and re-check.
Click to expand...

Dumb questions, but, the solenoid and actuator are different parts? Where is the actuator?
The timing belt does not appear to have any slack. The camshaft pulleys are both lined up according to the timing marks, but I haven't been able to pull the lowest timing cover yet to confirm alignment of all three marks at the same time :oops:.
I'm trying to avoid throwing a solenoid ($120+) at it before doing as much diagnosis as I'm capable of. It may come to that, but I'd like to try all options of what I can do for free first.

wennstroma said:
When it does this, check the oil on the dipstick to see if it's foamy. Pickup and transfer seals on the oil pan can go bad and start leaking oil internally or sucking air into the oil pump. If it's cold start, how thick of oil are you running? There might be a delay of oil flow to the top end?
Click to expand...

Couldn't hurt to try this, but I haven't noticed any delay with the oil pressure light or low oil pressure noises on startup. 5W-30 Synthetic blend - last changed 4,500 miles ago.
 
The CEL doesn't always come on when the fault occurs. Depending on the code, it may come on next key cycle.

Toss a solenoid at it and a fresh oil change with the proper viscosity.


You could always unplug it and go drive and see what code pops up then and how the thing runs without the solenoid operating
 
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ZVOLV said:
The CEL doesn't always come on when the fault occurs. Depending on the code, it may come on next key cycle.
Toss a solenoid at it and a fresh oil change with the proper viscosity.
You could always unplug it and go drive and see what code pops up then and how the e fine runs without the solenoid operating
Click to expand...

Thanks.
Not questioning your help or refusing to "toss a solenoid at it", just thought I'd add some additional info.

Checked a few things this morning.
Solenoid resistance: COLD 6.9 ohms, HOT 9.7 ohms. I think those are within spec.

Voltage at plug (not plugged into solenoid):
Key on, Engine off: COLD 0.45 volts, HOT 0.44 volts.
Engine on idling: COLD 10.53 volts, HOT 10.97 volts.
I thought it was a little strange that the plug wasn't getting battery voltage (13.5) but maybe that's typical? Not sure.

Disconnected plug at idle and got a P0013 code.

Never even thought of driving with the solenoid unplugged for comparison.
I'll drive it around today with the solenoid unplugged and see if runs any different.
 
Unplugged the solenoid and was pleasantly surprised by the driveability.
I swear it runs better with the solenoid unplugged.

Cold idle seems a little higher (1200 rpm).
But the WOT miss that I've lived with since purchasing the car in Dec. 2009 is gone! Actually chirped the tires!
P0013 code was triggered as expected, but not the P0015 while unplugged.

It's not at all how I expected the car to run with the solenoid unplugged. If I wasn't days away from its emission inspection, I'd let it go as-is without it connected, but that would probably clog the converter eventually.

Regardless, I'll order a new solenoid ($145) today and report back.
 
Ok, so you see how the code changes to a CIRCUIT code when you have it unplugged? If there were a problem with the circuit, or an internal electrical issue with the solenoid, you would see a circuit code.



It sounds like you are on the right track. I usually do an oil change along with the solenoid swap for good measure.
 
Update.
Installed a new solenoid (from FCP) a few days (160 miles) ago and things seem to be working properly.
Not sure why, but clearing the P0013 CEL code with my ScanGaugeII took a few tries. Had to reset the ECM completely, but there's been no CEL since.

Passed emission test today too so I'm good for another two years.
Would be cool to see 300,000 miles on this car by then, but rust may be the death of it before then.

Thank you for the help.
 
Did you see if the engine oil was foaming? These have solid lifters so don't tick like earlier white blocks, and the dummy light won't come on until it gets really bad. I forgot I was going to check that code since there are a couple that can set related to vvt issues. The P codes don't always match the Volvo codes.

As far as I know, you should get battery voltage at one terminal, not the lower voltage you measured. I'll check a wiring diagram, but I think that solenoid shares a fused supply with other sensors/solenoids.
 
Woops. Did check, and no, there's no foaming.
I also expected battery voltage and should have double checked.
Will try again this weekend.

I'll plan on pulling the lower timing cover to double check the crank alignment.
It's difficult for me to get to (so tight in there on this gen. S40) and I have a hard time seeing the mark. But I did it a few years ago when I changed the timing belt, so I should be able to do it again. My eyes have only gotten better - NOT!
 
Rechecked the electrical and got the same voltage/resistance measurements (+/-) as post #10 above. Battery voltage was 12.8V (engine off after sitting in the high 20s a few days) and 14.4V after start-up.

As for pulling the lower timing cover...
I think that'll wait until I do the timing belt in 5,000 miles. It's too cold, too dark and just too tight in there for me to deal with when I only have a few hours to work on it at a time. FWIW, the timing belt looks good with no cracks or oil on it. Appears to be tight and the upper marks are aligned with each other. Just can't see down to the crank at this time.

Another question though.
When the solenoid is powered, does that advance or retard the exhaust cam timing?
I'd like to know which way it defaults when there is no power to it (like when the solenoid is unplugged).
 
alschnertz said:
Voltage at plug (not plugged into solenoid):
Key on, Engine off: COLD 0.45 volts, HOT 0.44 volts.
Engine on idling: COLD 10.53 volts, HOT 10.97 volts.
I thought it was a little strange that the plug wasn't getting battery voltage (13.5) but maybe that's typical? Not sure.
Click to expand...

Looking at the wiring diagram shows it should have battery voltage on terminal #1 anytime the key is on from the system relay. That circuit supplies most of the EMS stuff, so you might have a fault on that specific wire to the cvvt solenoid. After double checking the voltage is low, maybe you could temporarily jump a b+ supply to the back of #1 and test drive it like that to see if that's your issue.

Volvo's codes don't match the generic codes. I've never seen an actuator on one of those fail, my friend said he has seen the spring inside one fail, but I think you would be hearing things rattling around.

172240589.jpg


If you want a giant version: https://a4.pbase.com/o12/81/744881/1/172240589.2vsMX2Kw.2001s40.jpg
 
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