• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Need to drop the Transmission pan - NUT prob

K

KevinMichaelMahoney

New member
Joined
Feb 3, 2022
I hear this is a hard thing to do. The outer nut will not move for the life of me

Can I heat this to take off?

Alternatives1
remove the entire assembly attached to the pan including dipstick (there is a screw holding it in place midway up) Will I be able to finagle it out?

Alternative 2
Cut the damn pipe (looks like it's 3/4") in front of the nut

I will accept all reasonable offers except suggestions to roll it into the river
 
It’s the Pandora’s Box thing to do. Usually, it will strip all the threads taking the nut off. Even if you get it off, they almost always leak once they have been removed. The smart thing to do is to remove the 2 starter bolts and remove the pan/tube as a complete assembly. Yes, it will come out of the car as an assembly.
 
Been there done that. When some one over torques the gland nut ,it will NOT come out. Yes you can remove the starter bolts and take it out as one piece.
 
I've usually been able to undo the nut(done it at least on 20 ocassions). Some of the time, the nut is seized. Usually its very obvious from the get go if its going to come loose or not. Did one a couple a day ago. I had to cut pipe. I installed new pan(old one leaking from plug). Then I installed replacement pipe. No leaks. Be sure to drain all the fluid(sometimes I forget).
 
I imagined the problem was tools -- an open end wrench distorts the thin tubing nut. Next time I'll either leave it together or cut and splice.
tool4154.jpg
 
I'm 6 for 6? on those suckers, haven't rounded one or twisted fitting off the pan yet. It's a lot easier to not **** it up with a good angle on it. Up on a lift it's easy enough, on the ground I see the PITA part.
 
Yeah, you guys can all do them just fine in your bone dry climates. Great advice. Even with a brand new pan with tube on it 15A had one that leaked once the tube was removed. Brand new from Volvo. It is not a smart move no matter what you have read, heard etc. I sell every spare pan I can come up with to someone on here that makes the mistake of thinking that tube can be removed successfully.
 
2manyturbos said:
Yeah, you guys can all do them just fine in your bone dry climates. Great advice. Even with a brand new pan with tube on it 15A had one that leaked once the tube was removed. Brand new from Volvo. It is not a smart move no matter what you have read, heard etc. I sell every spare pan I can come up with to someone on here that makes the mistake of thinking that tube can be removed successfully.
Click to expand...

I believe it, but I guess I got lucky with a couple of super heavy duty ex shipyard wrenches on Mom's 87 245.

Seemed like it wanted to move with moderate pressure so I went for it.

:e-shrug:
 
I have successfully removed one, ruined 2. As soon as any road salts get into those threads they are done. Even wet climates cause them to seize up.
 
I'm not well versed on 240s, but am curious.

Serious question, what this is about? Cliff notes are fine.
 
I was lucky with this one 13 years ago, but now I see I need to do it again. I'd rather not splice with hose. I wonder if there's a compression union to fit. If the pan can come off with tube attached, can the transmission come out that way on jack stands?

rms00.jpg


rms242.jpg
 
Oh wow.
Kind of knew it was about the dipstick tube but had no idea that the tube goes through the side of the pan.
 
I’m not sure what you’re asking Art. The pan will come out with the tube attached with the transmission still in its normal position sitting on the mount. The transmission will come out using a floor jack no problem. It’s not like the manual transmissions that fight you because of the bell housing design.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top