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Old 04-13-2021, 08:57 PM   #1
tinko
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Default A few b230 +t questions that I cannot find info on(Ď93 240)

I know thereís a lot of information out there on these builds, but Iíve spent too much time searching without getting some of the answers that I need...

1. Where can I find an aftermarket or OEM equivalent CBV? I scored a Garrett T3 off of a Ď89 780, and didnít grab the CBV. Or could I just go BOV? (I know it can be problematic because of metered air leaving the system, but Iíve seen people mention it isnít a huge deal ??)

2. I also didnít grab the air box/piping for MAF. What should I be looking for tube-wise for the MAF going into the inlet? Also moving the MAF across the engine bayó do I just cut and lengthen the wires?

3. Iíve seen very hazy info on what to do with the IAC. So what do I do with the IAC? Lol

4. What should I look out for when installing my oil feed 90į elbow out of the block? Iíve read mentions of the V (or timing?) belt hitting the oil feed line.

5. Finally, the turbo fuel ECU I bought is a 193 which means no EGR or cold start injector, whatís the best ways to deleting these parts? I notice the EGR valve piping is welded to the fuel rail...


Sorry if this is a lot, but answers to any of these questions would turn the volume in my brain down at least a decibel. Thanks in advance!!
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:09 PM   #2
redblockpowered
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I think the Garrett setups have this style (http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~am..._off_valve.htm) CBV, which I think you can get from FCP still? Never touched a car with a T3 so don't quote me on that...

The MAF should have about a foot of straight tube leading up to it, per Bosch. I think the stock setup is a little shorter than that. Absolutely do not slap a filter on the end of it, it's maybe the #1 cause of weird driveability issues I see with +T setups. You can cut and lengthen the wires, or run them all the way back to (almost) the ECU and back through the loom on the passenger's side fender. It's almost exactly the right length, just a little too long so you can clip a bit off and crimp on new terminals.

3. IAC should stay as is, I think the hose from the cold side pipe to the IAC is different but it mounts in the same place and connects to the manifold the same way.

4. Not sure, off the top of my head.

5. What's 193? Much more common to go off the Bosch number on the ECU, which should have last three digits of 9xx or 5xx. Do you have an EGR manifold? It'll need a hole plugged. You can make a little block off plate for the cold start injector on the intake if you want.
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:18 PM   #3
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Sorry bout that, it’s a 937! Got confused with something else. And I do have an EGR manifold
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:26 PM   #4
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Ah, there we go. For what it's worth the ECUs that don't use the cold start injector have it dummied out in the software. If you want to be extra sure you could probably just even leave it unplugged.
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:28 PM   #5
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Which EZK do you have? An EGR EZK will throw a check engine light if the system is bypassed (unless chipped)
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Old 04-13-2021, 10:10 PM   #6
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Itís a 148
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Old 04-14-2021, 12:35 AM   #7
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Should be alright as is, then, at least electrically speaking. It won't touch the EGR hardware.
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Old 04-16-2021, 12:46 PM   #8
740atl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinko View Post
I know there’s a lot of information out there on these builds, but I’ve spent too much time searching without getting some of the answers that I need...

1. Where can I find an aftermarket or OEM equivalent CBV? I scored a Garrett T3 off of a ‘89 780, and didn’t grab the CBV. Or could I just go BOV? (I know it can be problematic because of metered air leaving the system, but I’ve seen people mention it isn’t a huge deal ??)

You don't have to run a cbv or bov if you don't want to. With low enough boost pressures it's not a deal breaker. With LH2.4 if you run a bov it will run super rich after it activates but it's up to you. You can always get an old saab unit and plumb it back into the intake.

2. I also didn’t grab the air box/piping for MAF. What should I be looking for tube-wise for the MAF going into the inlet? Also moving the MAF across the engine bay— do I just cut and lengthen the wires?

Yes, just cut and lengthen the wires.

3. I’ve seen very hazy info on what to do with the IAC. So what do I do with the IAC? Lol

Iac schmyac... the IAC should be plumbed one side into the cold side intercooler pipe and the other side back into the intake. What year volvo are you working on?

4. What should I look out for when installing my oil feed 90į elbow out of the block? I’ve read mentions of the V (or timing?) belt hitting the oil feed line.

More info here if you need pictures of the 90 degree oil feed. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...7&postcount=37

5. Finally, the turbo fuel ECU I bought is a 193 which means no EGR or cold start injector, what’s the best ways to deleting these parts? I notice the EGR valve piping is welded to the fuel rail...

I just removed the connector to the cold start injector and left it in place. Ditto the egr. I can't comment on the ecu... were there lh2.4 turbo cars that had egr in the states?


Sorry if this is a lot, but answers to any of these questions would turn the volume in my brain down at least a decibel. Thanks in advance!!

Been down this road lots before... if you have more questions, there are a lot of brains here that have done the +T swap before.
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Old 04-16-2021, 01:02 PM   #9
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There were turbo cars with EGR in the US but I haven't come across many of them. Usually 939 or 954 ECU with 149 (I think) EZK.
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