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Old 03-11-2021, 04:37 PM   #51
283SD
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If you are going to do this conversion find the cleanest car that you can, you don't want to deal with rust and the swap. Any year will work, I like the early models w/ 4 head lights. I could go on with the details of the swap, but it would take up the whole page.
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Old 03-16-2021, 04:30 PM   #52
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Feel free to drop details on the swap I'd love to hear all of it. My Tacoma is in the shop right now getting a new head gasket (ouch) and once that is done I'll have more time to interact on the thread.
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Old 03-17-2021, 10:51 AM   #53
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You will need to alter the cross member at the rear, notch it and reinforce it [to clear the oil pan] so you can get the Chevy in lo and as far back as you can. I used an old style "window dist" to get firewall clearance. Depending on the year Volvo the steering shaft will be an issue with the left side exhaust, early cars had a smaller shaft. On the right side getting the exhaust around the starter will be an issue with block huger headers. Custom exhaust system,stock manifolds work well, I milled the left side on an angle to tuck it in closer to the block to clear the steering before I went with block huger headers. Custom radiator, I have two pusher fans with a thermo switch and an over ride in the cockpit. You will need to reverse the shift linkage on the PG If you want to you the stock shifter. A new drive shaft will be needed/adapted. Wiring is not, hard use the stock temp sender with a modified fitting, alt works[GM] the same way as the Volvo, starter wire,oil pressure same deal. It is not hard but you will need to fab parts, some where I have the patterns for the motor mounts. PM me for more info.
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Old 03-17-2021, 11:09 AM   #54
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Here's the steering shaft I used on my LS swap: https://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-M...-118/180080655

The stock shaft is bulky and has a rubber isolator - I figured even if it didn't touch that the heat would eventually break down the rubber.

Might as well go 'full width' on the radiator - the 240 radiator only fills part of the space in the radiator area on a 240. I used one of these: https://www.northernradiator.com/HIG...ACE_PRO/209622
Pretty much a direct bolt in. They have a 'Chevy/GM' version that's the same other than the high/low hoses and filler cap being on opposite sides. I needed the 'Ford/Mopar' style because I have a couple of wastegates down low on the passenger side - can't have a radiator hose there too.
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:28 PM   #55
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When I had my radiator Custom made HD 4 core, I used the full opening of the core support opening, GM upper and lower hose fittings, I run a remote expansion tank with a filler plug on the radiator. I also had a dead end tube put in on the upper hose side to put the temp sensor in to turn on the fans with an override on the dash.
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Old 03-17-2021, 12:52 PM   #56
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I kept my Turbo expansion tank off to the side, and a plain non-pressure cap on the radiator.

And rather than try to find hoses that would work, I just pieced mine together with silicone couplers and bits of aluminum tubing. With a couple of sensor adapters along the way - one to turn the fans on and off (also have a dash switch), and one for the Volvo temp gauge sender.
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:00 AM   #57
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so @283 the sensor would read temperature and turn on the fans? did I get that correctly? what is the purpose of the override switch?
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:00 AM   #58
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Also are you guys running oem gauges?
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Old 03-29-2021, 12:37 AM   #59
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I retapped the sensor adapter in the radiator hose for the stock Volvo temp sender. There are two on the Volvo motor, one with two leads for the ECU, one with a single spade connector for the gauge.

Tachometer running from an output on my Megasquirt, set to 50% scaling.

Aftermarket oil pressure gauge that I was using on the Volvo motor is on the LS motor - just used an adaptor for the sender in the LS motor's normal oil pressure spot.
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Old 03-29-2021, 08:18 PM   #60
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so @283 the sensor would read temperature and turn on the fans? did I get that correctly? what is the purpose of the override switch?
The fans will come on automatic with the sensor in the radiator, the over ride is so that I can turn them on before the sensor does, example, If I see traffic stopped, long wait at a light, waiting to get through a toll booth,at the bank drive up etc.
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:16 PM   #61
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Hey guys can anyone recommend any machine shops in Washington state? I need my 283 sbc in running order but I do not have the time or knowledge to do it myself.
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:19 PM   #62
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Before you put money into this SBC, consider picking up a cheap LS from a junkyard?
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:22 PM   #63
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Before you put money into this SBC, consider picking up a cheap LS from a junkyard?
LS motors aren't as cheap as they used to be... plus the swap parts are the expensive part anyway.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:26 PM   #64
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I already have the sbc, it is the motor I will use because 1) I dont want to go through the process of finding and buying an LS from a junkyard in unknown condition. 2) the 283 sbc I already have is a very basic motor with no electronic fuel injection or other things that are new to me. plus I already have a little experience working on them. 3) as I previously mentioned the 283 was free. It sits in our field under a tarp. I am trying to do this on a relatively low budget so I will stick with the sbc.

So with that being said I think the correct thing to do would be take it to a machine shop and have it torn down and gone over so I can have it assembled and returned to me in running order. What are peoples thoughts on this? I do not know the last time this motor ran.
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Old 05-04-2021, 11:59 PM   #65
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I already have the sbc, it is the motor I will use because 1) I dont want to go through the process of finding and buying an LS from a junkyard in unknown condition. 2) the 283 sbc I already have is a very basic motor with no electronic fuel injection or other things that are new to me. plus I already have a little experience working on them. 3) as I previously mentioned the 283 was free. It sits in our field under a tarp. I am trying to do this on a relatively low budget so I will stick with the sbc.

So with that being said I think the correct thing to do would be take it to a machine shop and have it torn down and gone over so I can have it assembled and returned to me in running order. What are peoples thoughts on this? I do not know the last time this motor ran.
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So with that being said I think the correct thing to do would be take it to a machine shop and have it torn down and gone over so I can have it assembled and returned to me in running order. What are peoples thoughts on this? I do not know the last time this motor ran.
sounds low budget
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Old 05-05-2021, 12:56 AM   #66
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Well... I can tell you now that rebuilding a weathered-by-the-elements engine can get expensive FAST!

The most budget friendly option would be to buy a sh!t box with a running engine and pull it out.
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Old 05-05-2021, 10:09 AM   #67
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Well... I can tell you now that rebuilding a weathered-by-the-elements engine can get expensive FAST!

The most budget friendly option would be to buy a sh!t box with a running engine and pull it out.
Custom fab work and random SBC parts are going to add up too.
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Old 05-05-2021, 11:07 AM   #68
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I'm a fan for the SBC, there is so many after market parts that are not that expensive. If you are going to put one in your car it might as well be a fresh motor. I could build you one but I'm on the east coast.
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Old 05-05-2021, 01:20 PM   #69
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there is so many after market parts that are not that expensive.
Oh, yeah. That I don't deny, but pretty much all the swap-related parts are either going to be special order or custom made.
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Old 05-06-2021, 02:20 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Volvo240Powerglide View Post
So with that being said I think the correct thing to do would be take it to a machine shop and have it torn down and gone over so I can have it assembled and returned to me in running order. What are peoples thoughts on this? I do not know the last time this motor ran.
So given your constraints and desires that might be the correct thing to do at this point.

But you will need to keep an open mind as the machine shop might find it cost prohibitive to bring it back into acceptable condition.

Hard to tell long-distance but it appears you are romantically dead set on using this 283. Which is fine, but may not end up being budgetarily possible. (your budget)

"It sits in our field under a tarp."

That right there is a red flag.
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:35 PM   #71
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2 MANY TURBOS/Roy,

I've been outa here for a while, BUT...my son is dead-set on putting my 383 Chevy/M-22 Muncie in his very clean '83 244, manual trans. Don't want to hijack this thread, but OP's 283 and our 383 are both "old school" SB.. Just wondering about transmission fit with Muncie, and clutch cable engineering.
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Old 05-11-2021, 05:49 PM   #72
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I’m of the belief that a T-5 with Chevy bell housing from a S-10 or Camaro will fit the Volvo no problem.
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Old 05-12-2021, 05:49 PM   #73
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2 MANY TURBOS/Roy,

I've been outa here for a while, BUT...my son is dead-set on putting my 383 Chevy/M-22 Muncie in his very clean '83 244, manual trans. Don't want to hijack this thread, but OP's 283 and our 383 are both "old school" SB.. Just wondering about transmission fit with Muncie, and clutch cable engineering.
Been there done that
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