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Old 05-03-2021, 03:45 PM   #26
R32RennSport
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Originally Posted by Jack View Post
You said you made 110hp in your thread

^ my point being is that bushings, sway bars aren’t enough . Firewall junction above the already thin frame rails cracks even with stock suspension

Move your steering wheel with the hood open and watch how much movement there is where the steering box bolts up to. Steering junction is another weak point

The stock (even) welded x member is sloppy where it bolts into the frame
Front of frame rails under the radiator needs boxing in

The loop around the x member is crappy too

TLDR: Everything in front needs more bracing
Definitely agree here, these cars are tough but they do need some extra love to be beat on. Just look at the factory rally cars and even cars being used for competition today.

RE: HP levels, I've made quite a few adjustments since my initial dyno which has also yielded higher static compression. It's not an official number but the car runs much stronger then when initial numbers were taken. Butt dyno, take it with a grain of salt.
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Old 05-03-2021, 03:50 PM   #27
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My favorite example is the 2jz 800hp? 245 in Sweden

Guy makes a #viral video doing smoke #drift etc

Few years later … less popular video …he says hes selling the engine and needs to rebuild the chassis

https://youtu.be/EuLrG88ePk8
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I love you even more Jack.
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Don’t bother, I would literally rather throw them away than give you the pleasure. I will never sell to you.
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I expect nothing less from an incel like you, Jack.

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Old 05-03-2021, 08:35 PM   #28
R32RennSport
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This thread is oddly relevant to me right now as well since I just sold the 15x7 AR Torq Thrusts and temporarily put on my old banded 15x7 steel wheels. All I can say is boy are the steel wheels awful, like absolutely terribly. Sorely missing my Torq Thrusts... oh well, on to the next bad decision.
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Old 05-03-2021, 08:47 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by R32RennSport View Post
This thread is oddly relevant to me right now as well since I just sold the 15x7 AR Torq Thrusts and temporarily put on my old banded 15x7 steel wheels. All I can say is boy are the steel wheels awful, like absolutely terribly. Sorely missing my Torq Thrusts... oh well, on to the next bad decision.
Good thing I didn't jump on those mopar cop wheels.
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Old 05-03-2021, 09:02 PM   #30
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Huge increase in Sprung weight and reduction in breaking force


edit think of all the DONK boi vehicles with huge ass heavy wheels on stock brakes

Last edited by Jack; 05-03-2021 at 09:10 PM..
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Old 05-04-2021, 08:02 AM   #31
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Over the years and 100s of thousand miles, I've owned over a dozen 122S and two 1800S and have tried many different wheel and tire combinations from stock to 8" wide and 14" and 15" diameter.

The present and best setup I've used so far for actual driving (not appearance) on both the road for 5K+ miles and 1K miles a year of vintage road racing a year is a set of 7" alloy wheels with 3-3/4" backspacing and 195 tires. Not too much offset, so it doesn't stress the front end components that much or the weak "toothpick" tapered and keyed rear axles which are prone to breakage racing on pavement (changing to an 1800E rear end now because of the axles.)

Your mileage may vary....
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Old Today, 09:04 AM   #32
PaddyGarcia
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Timely, as I needed to replace the 11 year old 205/60 Tiger Paws on our 122. I almost went with the same, so thanks for this thread.

195/65 is a little taller than 205/60 but closer to stock and is a nice fit on 7" wheels.

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