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245t low power

Well, I'm still getting piss poor mpgs in the wagon. Best I ever managed was 15.5, getting closer to 14 on my 20 mile round trip commute. I'm usually doing 70 or so, sometimes a bit quicker. WTF?
 
What size tires are you running and what grade of gas?

Not that those factors would explain such terrible mileage but they might help a little bit.
 
I only get about 16mpg with my car. It's too much fun to get good mileage with. 70mph is turning over 3k rpms on the highway and with these cars the mileage drops fast over 3k rpms at steady cruise.
 
dl242gt said:
I only get about 16mpg with my car. It's too much fun to get good mileage with. 70mph is turning over 3k rpms on the highway and with these cars the mileage drops fast over 3k rpms at steady cruise.
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:nod:

They hit a wall of air at and above ~ 60 mph and mileage drops like a stone.

At 75 I only get 20 mpeegees.
 
adamdrives said:
Well, I'm still getting piss poor mpgs in the wagon. Best I ever managed was 15.5, getting closer to 14 on my 20 mile round trip commute. I'm usually doing 70 or so, sometimes a bit quicker. WTF?
Click to expand...

That's what I get with the 745, similar round trip & road speed. Only time it delivered "good" MPG's was on the longer drives - to the airports, etc.
 
Redwood Chair said:
What size tires are you running and what grade of gas?

Not that those factors would explain such terrible mileage but they might help a little bit.
Click to expand...

205/55 nokians and chevron 91

dl242gt said:
I only get about 16mpg with my car. It's too much fun to get good mileage with. 70mph is turning over 3k rpms on the highway and with these cars the mileage drops fast over 3k rpms at steady cruise.
Click to expand...

The car doesn't feel like it wants to be cruising at 2500 or so, feels boggy, even before the cam. It feels clearer above 3k so that's just where I usually end up driving it. There is a spot around 27-800 that feels okay, but it doesn't feel like it really has enough power to be there and change speed though. Ok if theres nobody around and no hills.

lookforjoe said:
That's what I get with the 745, similar round trip & road speed. Only time it delivered "good" MPG's was on the longer drives - to the airports, etc.
Click to expand...

Even all highway, minimal ripping the best I ever got was 15.5.
 
adamdrives said:
205/55 nokians and chevron 91



The car doesn't feel like it wants to be cruising at 2500 or so, feels boggy, even before the cam. It feels clearer above 3k so that's just where I usually end up driving it. There is a spot around 27-800 that feels okay, but it doesn't feel like it really has enough power to be there and change speed though. Ok if theres nobody around and no hills.



Even all highway, minimal ripping the best I ever got was 15.5.
Click to expand...

Best case you're wasting your money with 7:5-1 compression running 91, worst case you're using a little bit more fuel and wasting your money anyway.
 
Very good news! Solved my low power/sluggish responsiveness issue last night by setting base idle and correctly wiring the TPS with help from Lookforjoe. Can't believe how much of a difference it made. I think since I got the car wrecked and replaced the harness right away I may have never had the throttle switch wired correctly, because it always felt choked. Finally feels like it wants to go, pulls hard, cruises in vacuum with only light throttle inputs needed, I'm sure it's going to go more miles on a tank. I can finally feels my mods.

Relay setup for lh tps on k-jet conversion is very simple: yellow tps wire goes to pin 30, then ground 87a to manifold. Pin 86 gets switched power, 85 goes to pin 1 on tps. Now when you open the throttle, instead of yellow wire circuit opening, the relay grounds it, and you have proper iac/k-jet control. This is necessary because the k jet switch is open when the throttle is closed, and the lh switch is open when the throttle is open.

Note: its a bit of a chore to set base idle with the lh tps. Hard to explain, but I found it easier to start with throttle open more than it needed to be, then back off off idle screw so that I wouldn't lose my tps setting. It's much simpler to adjust the original switch.

edit: also thanks to John, who suggested I set base idle in the first place!
 
True, but I also like to know everything is working right. That and not having to floor it in 4th to maintain speed up hills.
 
@adamdrives I see no mentioning of your base timing advance and dwell settings. Sounds like your engine is running with 15* of ignition advance taken out everywhere. Are you 100% that all of the baseline ignition settings are done correctly? Is your cam timed correctly (as in, did you put it straight up AND make sure that the distributor is pointed the right way?)

Also, get rid of the MSD BTM. The mods that Cosbysweater suggested are way more effective...AFTER you confirm what is happening with a timing light.
 
I'm not sure what you mean. All the timing marks line up at tdc. The mark on my crank pulley is at 15* looking at the marks on timing cover with a timing light, engine idling. Adjusted via the slot in distributor housing. Cam is set to zero. it's running all stock ignition.
 
Have you ever adjusted ignition dwell and confirmed that the idle switch is working as intended? Does it jump to ~25 degrees as soon as you crack the throttle?
 
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