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Very low Dyno Results 176 BHP

chopperead

New member
Joined
Feb 21, 2007
Location
Northants,UK
Good afternoon everyone,

Just had a power run completed to see what i have achieved by modifying my 100k mile B200FT and i must say i was surprised on the results.

Engine spec and mods
1994 940 2.0 Turbo M90
B200FT
90+ manifold modified to fit T3 Turbo
Garrett Cosworth T3 ( running 18 PSI )
Green Giant injectors 443cc (non bosch)
3 inch downpipe back
De Cat
3 inch Intercooling hardpipes
3 inch intercooler
original MAF into a 3 inch pipe
FPR
Freds Chips

The car runs ok and when i did the mods the car felt much faster than previous and my BUTT DYNO was certain i would be around 250 BHP (ENGINE POWER) but have managed a massive 176 BHP (ENGINE POWER).

See sheet attached.

<img src="https://i.ibb.co/r6Hz7C5/IMG-2464.jpg" alt="IMG-2464" border="0">

Any advice or experience of where i might be going wrong.
 
Yes actually 176 BHP worked out back to the engine actual Wheel power = 134 BHP

Probably the slowest Volvo 940 ive ever seen on the web but it actually feels fairly ok.
 
lowest whp turbo numbers I've seen were buzz's 125whp pulls back in the day. stock STOCK 940 turbo.

I would suggest that you verify no boost leaks (leaking CBV/BOV, etc) first. Even if it's a stock volvo t3, at 15psi you should be over 200 bhp.

What AFRs was it producing? I don't see that on the graph. Are you sure it's actually running 18psi? You're not making any torque either...
 
Do you have the A/F ratio documented?

Also, one dyno to the next, and what model dyno you're working with, makes a huge difference. I've never been on one that plotted parasitic loss, that's pretty cool.

If the car is properly tuned and this is the number you got, consult the operator for an explanation. If you're just using this as a baseline against future mods, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're trying to win the internet, maybe find someone with a Dynojet. If internet lore is correct, these tend to produce the highest numbers.
 
No A/F other than the gauge i have unless its on another page of the report which i dont have to hand.

No idea on the dyno.

No idea if i would class it as properly tuned, he obviously cannot do anything with it as standard ECU so not tunable. I asked if anything looked a miss and he said no runs fine its just not a powerful engine.

Hadn't planned on really do much more with it as not looking to be the highest BHP Volvo 940, purely used for drifting and has just enough power to drift with.

I could look at this as a positive that i have another 100 BHP easily achievable but then i think how as ive done the most common mods.

He said its a bit lean at top which i would have thought meant higher figures. My AFR on full boost hits 10's 11's

I have yet to upgrade fuel pumps.
My injectors were ebay special got caught out on the word "Genuine" cleaverly advertised as Genuine injectors
Could make Turbo T3/4
I have also changed the cam cant remember which one it has but whichever one it wouldnt lose 100BHP
Maybe ill buy or make a boost leak tester
Maybe ill just sell the Volvo and buy a Honda Civic 1.8 and make an easy 400BHP
 
I *think* that AFRs in the 10-11 range might be somewhat rich for this application. Some guys with more turbo experience should chime in here. Leaning it out some could improve power, but not to that degree.

Testing for boost leak is probably job 1.
 
No idea if i would class it as properly tuned, he obviously cannot do anything with it as standard ECU so not tunable. I asked if anything looked a miss and he said no runs fine its just not a powerful engine.

The standard ecu is tunable. I tune these using an ostrich emulator live on the dyno. 10/11:1 is pretty rich for these engines, in my experience they produce more power in the 11.7-12.2 range. What chips do you have?
 
Hmmm...... swindon = 2 hours drive maybe ill come visit !

Not 100% sure bought them about 10 years ago, Freds fuel and ignition bought from a guy up north BB-Q a member on here who had bought the fred chips and installed into ECU.
 
Fred's chips and not knowing what the tune is are a big factor here.

Also yes, Honda engines are far superior and I want one very, very badly.
 
Hmmm...... swindon = 2 hours drive maybe ill come visit !

Not 100% sure bought them about 10 years ago, Freds fuel and ignition bought from a guy up north BB-Q a member on here who had bought the fred chips and installed into ECU.

More than welcome bud. Pm me.
 
Across the pond from us you have imperial hp. It's half the hp we measure here. :lol:

Another thought is to run a quarter mile drag and use the calculator on this site to get an idea of the hp. You will need the weight of the car which you can usually check at the track. This would give you a cheaper way of checking approximate power.
http://www.turbobricks.com/resources.php?content=quartermiledyno
 
4 cylinders I'd like to get in a volvo:

K20
F20
SAAB B234r

Saab...meh

Looked at the K series and F series engines. You'd either need to mount the block very far forward or convert a Nissan S chassis crossmember and front suspension for it all to work.

I do have a worthless bag of garbage wagon here to experiment with here though...hmmmmm...
 
I did not have good luck with Freds chips way back. I went with TLAO stuff and more recently started tuning my own. The early TLAO stuff was a big improvement over Freds chips, suspect the current TLAO stuff is better as well.
 
saab b234's blow. not a great design.

K20 or F20 ftw in that regard.
Dyno he was on appears to be a MAHA, not sure on where they sit in the spectrum of high/low/average, they appear to read low, but then it's hard to quantify that... popular shops have been known to...ahhh.. "pad stats", so people get butthurt when they see reality.


Regardless, the numbers here are off. AFR's in the 10's is way too rich, high 11's still well on the safe side of rich at that boost level. Monkeying with the air flow meter and running random chips is not likely to get great results, neither is running cheap-o aftermarket injectors. You mention an FPR, is this a rising rate secondary fpr like a vortec?
or is this just an adjustable drop-in fpr replacing the stock one?
if so, what is the base fuel pressure (no vacuum source connected) set at?

If this were my vehicle I would do the following:
Comprehensive boost leak test, looking closely at the idle air hoses (it does not take a huge leak to greatly skew back pressure numbers and heavily impact performance)

If that passes, then I would do all of the following and then work back forward from there:
stock injectors, stock fuel pressure, boost back down to ~8psi and evaluate how the vehicle is performing (seat of the pants or something. be great to get dyno numbers, but certainly that's an expense). I might even put the oem chips back in the car, but I would for sure reset the ecu's.
Then, turn the boost up gradually, keeping an eye on the AFR's. You may be surprised at how far you can go before it's an issue. Then, before I would do anything else, I might see if raising the fuel pressure allows me to bump the boost up a little more without causing issues (even though I will freely state, I believe this is a hack and there are good arguments against doing this, many of which I've personally made)

Depending on where it's at now, you can change ONE thing at a time. For instance, bigger injectors.. reset the ecu, leave everything else alone, drop them in (but I would recommend going out and getting used legit 400+cc injectors, not running chi-com knockoffs, those are notoriously ****ty), and let the ecu learn and see how that goes. If you legitimately reach the end of the MAF, you need to make a decision on whether or not you want to keep LH or get something that doesn't suck.
 
I picked up 97hp last time I was on a dyno tweaking my ignition map on MS. I had it set very conservatively, the tuner suggested more aggressive timing and it made a huge difference. So maybe it's in your ignition chips?
 
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