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Old 03-17-2021, 08:32 PM   #226
DavePolyakov
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These are my angles right now. The trans is at its max height and the smallest angle I can get out of it is 8 degrees. The CSB is lowered quite a lot. Is angling the diff upward dangerous? It drives pretty crappy as is. The adjustable torque rods are a factor but it's pretty bad.
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
Get a real angle finder, take the rear driveshaft out, set the car on stands so the suspension is loaded and level. Put the angle finder on the pinion flange and on the front driveshaft. Adjust until they are within 1 degree of parallel, with the pinion pointing down if anything.

Last edited by DavePolyakov; 03-18-2021 at 06:38 PM..
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Old 03-19-2021, 12:57 PM   #227
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Am I understanding this right.... your T5 gearbox output is at 8* ?

When I put the Pro Touring style suspension in my 70 Malibu 12 years ago, with adjustable rear suspension and 1 pc. drive shaft, the only way I could get the angles correct at the transmission exit was to serious space UP the tailshaft of my trans..... my GOD I think I ended up with almost 1.5 inches of steel beneath it. My autotragic in the Malibu was fractions away from the tunnel, and I could not go any higher.

All of the discussions in that ancient time, was that for lowered vehicles we will nearly always encounter this issue. I did end up with proper angles and no nasty vibes.... but I almost had to start pounding the tunnel steel to get there. FWIW, the old GM A bodies have a 4 link rear and it took some serious control rod adjustments to get both the rear pinion and the trans yoke parallel at around 1 or 1.5*.

Is your trans already shimmed up nearly into your tunnel steel?
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:09 PM   #228
DavePolyakov
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Yes. I'm using the Yoshifab t5 cross member and it's at max height. I could shim it up further to reduce the angle, but then the shifter will not be clearing the tunnel. The clearance is very tight as is and I've done lots of hammering/prying on the tunnel already.

It's probably not doable to obtain angles though unless I raise it correct? I will somehow need to make the shifter have a lower profile or cut out the shifter hole with a cut-off wheel, which I really don't want to do though. I know this will increase cabin noise and there'll be hot air coming in through the hole.

This is my current cheapie eBay shifter I modified with 1/4inch steel. I made it as low profile as possible and don't know what else I can do honestly. I do not have any welding capabilities, I only have a cut-off wheel.



Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Am I understanding this right.... your T5 gearbox output is at 8* ?

When I put the Pro Touring style suspension in my 70 Malibu 12 years ago, with adjustable rear suspension and 1 pc. drive shaft, the only way I could get the angles correct at the transmission exit was to serious space UP the tailshaft of my trans..... my GOD I think I ended up with almost 1.5 inches of steel beneath it. My autotragic in the Malibu was fractions away from the tunnel, and I could not go any higher.

All of the discussions in that ancient time, was that for lowered vehicles we will nearly always encounter this issue. I did end up with proper angles and no nasty vibes.... but I almost had to start pounding the tunnel steel to get there. FWIW, the old GM A bodies have a 4 link rear and it took some serious control rod adjustments to get both the rear pinion and the trans yoke parallel at around 1 or 1.5*.

Is your trans already shimmed up nearly into your tunnel steel?

Last edited by DavePolyakov; 03-19-2021 at 02:14 PM..
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Old 03-19-2021, 02:22 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavePolyakov View Post
These are my angles right now. The trans is at its max height and the smallest angle I can get out of it is 8 degrees. The CSB is lowered quite a lot. Is angling the diff upward dangerous? It drives pretty crappy as is. The adjustable torque rods are a factor but it's pretty bad.
So, every angle is up, and you have no downward angles canceling out driveline acceleration? That's going to vibe like a SOB.

On mine, I tried to get my trans and front shaft as close to parallel (zero degrees) as possible, and then allow the front-rear shaft angle cancel out the rear shaft-diff angle.

As far as the shifter...seems like the best option for the grandpa series drivers is to use one of those shifter relocation kits that moves it back, so you don't have shifter clearance issues.
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Old 03-19-2021, 04:33 PM   #230
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Yes, I've been looking into the relocation kits a lot, but almost all of them seem to be for t56's and are upwards of $399... yikes. It may be the only solution, I've also seen a lot of DIY shifter relocations but that might be out of my skill range.
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Originally Posted by Benjam83 View Post
So, every angle is up, and you have no downward angles canceling out driveline acceleration? That's going to vibe like a SOB.

On mine, I tried to get my trans and front shaft as close to parallel (zero degrees) as possible, and then allow the front-rear shaft angle cancel out the rear shaft-diff angle.

As far as the shifter...seems like the best option for the grandpa series drivers is to use one of those shifter relocation kits that moves it back, so you don't have shifter clearance issues.
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Old 03-20-2021, 07:12 AM   #231
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From memory (it's been years!) you want the "operating angles" in the 1* to 2* range, as near equal as possible. ZERO is not a proper target, as U joint needle bearings must "roll" or they will be beaten flat on one surface and fail.

YEARS ago (a decade maybe) I think old BNE himself was prototyping a T5 extension plate to enable proper fitment into the 7/9 shifter location. I think he built a few, as perhaps JohnV might have himself. If memory serves, Nathan also built/bought one. He's long been gone from OVLOV land, but BNE might still have a CAD file. The final solution is so expensive it isn't practical..... get the T5 Aussie trans tail section which places the shifter in the proper position.

If you search, you will find threads from about 5-7 years ago that beat this T5 lenght & shifter position topic to death......

Lastly - are there any T5 RWD users running a one piece driveshaft? I think YOSHI was pushing this years ago with his adapter kit. As those experienced in this swap have learned..... the T5 must be (1) properly rebuilt and (2) properly shimmed to reduce the strange 3K vibes (the title of this thread, I think). My opinion will remain, that if one were to use the FORD 4 cylinder output yoke (large dampener design), you will achieve the best T5 solution. Those FORD OE Engineers figured this problem out for those Turbo T-bird 4 bangers, all those years ago....... and their solution still works.
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Old 03-20-2021, 08:14 AM   #232
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The t5 extension i made fit great but didn't work that great. I have had an idea in my head on how to do it proper but haven't had the time to get around to it.
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Old 03-20-2021, 11:25 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Lastly - are there any T5 RWD users running a one piece driveshaft? I think YOSHI was pushing this years ago with his adapter kit. As those experienced in this swap have learned..... the T5 must be (1) properly rebuilt and (2) properly shimmed to reduce the strange 3K vibes (the title of this thread, I think). My opinion will remain, that if one were to use the FORD 4 cylinder output yoke (large dampener design), you will achieve the best T5 solution. Those FORD OE Engineers figured this problem out for those Turbo T-bird 4 bangers, all those years ago....... and their solution still works.
Yes, the large slip yoke damper eliminates the decel rattles. It is a tight fit in a 240 tunnel, not sure how similar the 7/9 tunnels are.
https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost...&postcount=242

I have a 1pc driveshaft in my 240. It rubs a little over large bumps with ipd springs and needed to have the pinion angle dialed in with adjustable torque rods (BNE Hybrid).
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Old 03-20-2021, 11:28 AM   #234
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I bought my T5 professionally rebuilt from a man in Portland. He's been rebuilding T5's and other units as a business for years, after retiring from a race team. He shimmed the Deeworks adapter plate for me as well so everything should be nice and proper.

About the 4-cyl T5, the Deeworks plate is not compatible as the bearing retainers on 4cyl and v8 tranny's are different. The Deeworks only is compatible with the v8. I had first bought a 4cyl t5 and was about to install it when I realized it wasn't compatible, so I then sold it. I am using the big 4 cylinder dampened slip yoke which is helping a lot I imagine.

About the one piece shaft in 740's nathininwa said, " the 7/9's have the unibody driveshaft loop and running a 1pc cause it to hit the tunnel under compression and when jacked up to change a tire, the shaft becomes the balance point! I had to limit the bumps and run straps. I had about 4 inches of wheel travel out back iirc. So I went back to a 3 inch 2pc shaft with a stout poly carrier bearing."

I saw some threads about the BNE 700/900 shifter solution but I have never seen a picture of it! Would be awesome if you made a v2!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
From memory (it's been years!) you want the "operating angles" in the 1* to 2* range, as near equal as possible. ZERO is not a proper target, as U joint needle bearings must "roll" or they will be beaten flat on one surface and fail.

YEARS ago (a decade maybe) I think old BNE himself was prototyping a T5 extension plate to enable proper fitment into the 7/9 shifter location. I think he built a few, as perhaps JohnV might have himself. If memory serves, Nathan also built/bought one. He's long been gone from OVLOV land, but BNE might still have a CAD file. The final solution is so expensive it isn't practical..... get the T5 Aussie trans tail section which places the shifter in the proper position.

If you search, you will find threads from about 5-7 years ago that beat this T5 length & shifter position topic to death......

Lastly - are there any T5 RWD users running a one piece driveshaft? I think YOSHI was pushing this years ago with his adapter kit. As those experienced in this swap have learned..... the T5 must be (1) properly rebuilt and (2) properly shimmed to reduce the strange 3K vibes (the title of this thread, I think). My opinion will remain, that if one were to use the FORD 4 cylinder output yoke (large dampener design), you will achieve the best T5 solution. Those FORD OE Engineers figured this problem out for those Turbo T-bird 4 bangers, all those years ago....... and their solution still works.
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Old 03-26-2021, 01:48 PM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
From memory (it's been years!) you want the "operating angles" in the 1* to 2* range, as near equal as possible. ZERO is not a proper target, as U joint needle bearings must "roll" or they will be beaten flat on one surface and fail.
This is why, on these cars stock, there's that rubber guibo instead of a U-joint on the front shaft. Once you put a u-joint in there, at an angle, and don't have a second one to cancel it out, you'll get the vibe issues.
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Old 03-26-2021, 06:17 PM   #236
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Unless you have a m45 or m46 which uses a u-joint at the trans....
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