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Old 06-09-2021, 08:40 AM   #176
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Dude the thing spools up so well. From what I could see, boost was already at 7 psi by 2500 in 2nd gear!

Ps does it have the colder plugs in it yet?
Yeah I'm pretty impressed with how low this thing starts making boost. I have 92oct in the tank now. I still have a vac leak or something else going on. AFRs swing from 13 to 17:1 at idle and low load. I replaced the lh o2 sensor, no change. Runs a touch lean in open loop at about 15:1 but its consistent. Even driving the AFRs look better with the o2 sensor unplugged than when plugged in.

I'm running 10psi now and it's making boost at as little as 2k rpm and its at 10psi around 2,800 depending on the gear. Doesn't really start to pull until about 3500 though. Seems to Rev out about as well as you can expect an 8v with a B cam to.

Yes I installed some BPR7ES plugs.




I did the oil drain different than pictured earlier in the thread.

This is what is at the block.

3" downpipe to 2.5" exhaust.



Last edited by Jerd; 06-11-2021 at 09:04 PM..
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Old 06-09-2021, 04:04 PM   #177
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I ain't scared, been there done it. Worked fine. I also have a few spares haha.
Actually might be better in this application to keep as much dirt out of it as possible. I know this one firsthand lol

setup looks great! Can't wait to go hit forest service roads
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Old 06-09-2021, 04:55 PM   #178
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actually might be better in this application to keep as much dirt out of it as possible. I know this one firsthand lol

setup looks great! Can't wait to go hit forest service roads
i cant wait to join you on those roads
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:17 PM   #179
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i cant wait to join you on those roads
It's gonna be a real ****show!
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:23 PM   #180
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M47 has been pretty noisy but yesterday on my way home from work after a few pulls it got super noisy and started puking ATF out of somewhere. Good thing I bought a backup. So looks like I'm doing a transmission swap and locker install this Sunday.

I'm trying to get this thing in as good of condition as I can afford by the 24th. So if anyone has any ideas on what to check for the AFR swings, please let me know. AFR swings from 13:1 to 16.5:1 about 5 times in 10 seconds only in closed loop. On cold start the car idles stable and at a decent afr. If the o2 sensor is unplugged the warm idle is stable at about 15:1 and the car seems to actually drive better. Low load afr is about right and it richens up with boost on set and runs about 11:1 at wot in boost.

I do have a CEL for low EGR flow. Because removed all the EGR stuff. I did this after the +T and after first noticing the afr swings.

Made an air hose adapter and pressurized the intake. Found and fixed 2 big boost leaks. One of them being the EGR pipe at the intake manifold and the other being the MAF cover pushing up and blowing air out. After the repairs the only thing that changed was idle vac increased from about 15inHg to 17-18.

Cleaned the MAF, no change. Swapped the MAF, no change.

I checked the o2 sensor voltage swing at idle and at elevated rpm and the cycle rate was a little slower than some say it should be. About 5 cycles in 10 seconds instead of the stated ideal 8 cycles in 10 seconds. The wide band afr swing closely matches the narrowband swing. This is a brand new bosch o2 sensor it was swapped in an attempt to resolve this problem. I have noted there are a couple of small exhaust leaks. None major but they might add up to being a problem. Ordered some gaskets for the turbo, and I may consider moving the o2 sensor up stream of the 2.5" vband.

I pinched off the IAC hose and idle drops to about 600rpm. Unpluging power from the IAC results in a high rpm idle that fluctuates several hundred rpm approximately once a second.

I have verified the throttle switch clicks just off idle and the car is cutting fuel on decel.

I have pulled all the vac lines from the manifold one by one and no noticeable change was made.

The FPR does not smell of fuel.

Replacing plug wires, cap, and rotor this weekend as well.


Last edited by Jerd; 06-14-2021 at 10:13 AM..
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Old 06-12-2021, 08:07 PM   #181
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I always thought about a atf cooler for a m47, this was before I actually followed through with ideas
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Old 06-14-2021, 10:11 AM   #182
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Got the m47 swapped out with a fresher unit. Sooooo much quieter, the old one was getting really bad. The new to me unit is nice and quiet, shifts nice, and hopefully wont leak.


Also got the spartan locker installed, Dan and Asher did most of it while I was finishing up the trans swap, but it looked really easy. Parking break springs looked like the hardest part. The locker seems to function excellent so far. I had read reviews and watched videos before install so I was awear of the ratcheting and clunking that this locker generates at low speeds. Had I not known this was normal I would have thought something was broken.


MAF lids keep lifting up. Not willing to accept defeat... yet... I decided to more permanently attach the cover plate on the maf. I noted when I had it disassembled that the unit appears to be sealed fairly well from boost pressure except for a tiny white hose that im assuming is there to counter act condensation. Only after gluing the top on did it become obvious that I should have just sealed that little hose off and vented the electronics to atmosphere. I did go ahead and poke a 1/16" hole in the side of the electronics area thinking that if the tiny white hose is the only path to boost pressure that the 1/16" hole would be able to vent pressure faster than the hose could supply it. IDK, its all feeling very temporary. If this car doesn't throw a rod anytime soon, ill be going full standalone.

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Old 06-14-2021, 11:40 AM   #183
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Old 06-18-2021, 02:04 PM   #184
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Incase anyone is reading this thread and interested in the fluctuating AFR issue. I replaced the CPS, cap, and rotor. Bougiecords plug cable was too short for plug 3, didn't install. No change.

I did reinstall the N/A ecu and ezk and there is a very similar fluctuation in afr at idle however the rpm does not drop nearly as bad when it goes lean and the fluctuation is from like 14:1 to 15.5:1 instead of 13:1 to 17:1 with turbo the turbo computers

Any other easy to check things I can do before the Gambler on the 24th? I was thinking about unbolting the knock sensor and letting it hang. I may try and verify ECT resistance at the ecu connection.

I may go ahead and just pull the intake manifold and change the gasket. I don't hear any significant boost leaks and don't see any soapy bubbles on the top side but... idk.

I have a set of 42lb injectors out of a ford mustang that i could try installing but Im guessing LH2.4 would just way over fuel and this may just cause other problems and make for a difficult or pointless comparison.

Side notes, cold start is in the 9:1 range and slowly leans up to around 14:1 until the lh swaps to closed loop. WOT pulls puts measured AFRS in the mid to low 10s above 4500rpm and i have seen high 9:1 ratios toward redline a few times now. I have been keeping my foot out of the throttle the past couple days driving to work and back trying to establish an estimated fuel milage as well. Its not looking good...
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Old 06-18-2021, 02:41 PM   #185
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Have you checked fuel pressure? Believe it or not I've had fuel pump relays that were full of fretting on the inside cause weird issues before.
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Old 06-18-2021, 04:35 PM   #186
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Have you checked fuel pressure? Believe it or not I've had fuel pump relays that were full of fretting on the inside cause weird issues before.
Thanks for the input! I have not measured fuel pressure (I probably should) however I have cleaned the OE fuel pump relay, replaced the fuel pump relay, replaced the in tank pump with an AEM and ran the factory fuel pump wire to trigger a 30A replay to power the pump. The FPR does not smell of fuel and unplugging the vac line to it does change the afr and idle rpm.
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Old 06-18-2021, 04:42 PM   #187
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I know you said the blow through MAF worked before but do you think that could be causing issues? Did you snip your WOT wire on the TPS pigtail?

Simon video couple posts down - http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...=215399&page=3
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Old 06-18-2021, 04:50 PM   #188
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I know you said the blow through MAF worked before but do you think that could be causing issues? Did you snip your WOT wire on the TPS pigtail?

Simon video couple posts down - http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...=215399&page=3
I did wonder, I am not to proud to eat my own words. I actually tried pulling the charge pipe off the intercooler and just left it to pull in air without influence of the turbo/intercooler, no change unfortunately. I do also want to make clear that the car has been idling poorly long before the +T, I was kind of hoping that by swapping the injectors/ecu/ezk that i might get lucky with one of those resolving the issue. What i didn't expect was for the turbo computers to amplify the problem.

I have not snipped my WOT wire I forgot about that! Thank you for bring that up.

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Old 06-18-2021, 06:18 PM   #189
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Went out on my lunch break, I cut the wot wire and pulled the knock sensor off the block and tucked into the wiring harness under the intake manifold. Went for a short drive and revving the engine out or getting into boost would cause significant loss in power. Pulled over and slapped the knock sensor back on the block and snugged it up, car drives as usual. This totally contradicts a few suggested posts I read. I didnt really get to see the wot afr, will check on the way home.
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Old 06-18-2021, 06:39 PM   #190
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yea the wot wire doesnt really do anything if you have a turbo ecu. the wire basically goes to a dead pin on the ecu.

i see its got a blow through maf, they do weird things sometimes, took the screen out on both sides i take it?

probably not going to solve much but have you tried the n/a computers and put a stock maf on it nd take the charge pipe off? you still have your pcv hooked up to vacuum?

i may have missed info, lol
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:39 AM   #191
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yea the wot wire doesnt really do anything if you have a turbo ecu. the wire basically goes to a dead pin on the ecu.
Noted!

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i see its got a blow through maf, they do weird things sometimes, took the screen out on both sides i take it?
I did not pull the screens.

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probably not going to solve much but have you tried the n/a computers and put a stock maf on it nd take the charge pipe off? you still have your pcv hooked up to vacuum?
See previous posts for more detail. The car has had a rough idle for years now and I had done several things but eventually gave up, assuming it would get worse and thus easier to troubleshoot.

When I +Td the car it did get worse. I did swap the n/a computers back in and it essentially idles like it use to except a little more rich due to the bigger injectors.

I have pulled the charge pipe off the intercooler to essentially eliminate the turbo from the intake and this did not change anything.

PCV was vented to ground at +T but again this seemingly had no impact because the car runs as it did when the n/a ecu is installed.

Thanks for the input!

I'd really like to find a known good 016 to try. Maybe I have two bad ones that just happen to behave identically to each other.
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Old 06-19-2021, 02:36 PM   #192
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Improbable but not impossible on the MAF front. Are you absolutely certain that all the basic stage zero crap has been dealt with? Intake manifold+throttle body gasket and shaft o-ring/coolant, crank, narrowband sensors/ clean and free idle valve/valve lash?
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Old 06-19-2021, 02:40 PM   #193
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I had a bad ECT sensor and coil driver that caused similar rich running issues (happened at different times).
Lesson learned, don't just let your coil driver flop about.

And MAFs, they're all over the place. I had one that ran super rich, and one that ran lean-ish. I'd use the rich one for track days, and then swap back to the "lean" one for commuting.
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Old 06-19-2021, 08:59 PM   #194
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Improbable but not impossible on the MAF front. Are you absolutely certain that all the basic stage zero crap has been dealt with? Intake manifold+throttle body gasket and shaft o-ring/coolant, crank, narrowband sensors/ clean and free idle valve/valve lash?
I have not personally done the intake manifold gasket. No visible soap bubbles anywhere along the top. Throttle body was cleaned and gasket replaced. Shaft o-ring is leaking slightly but not enough to cause a problem in my opinion.

Crank sensor replaced.
o2 sensor replaced.
Cleaned idle air control valve.
Checked and set valve lash.

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I had a bad ECT sensor and coil driver that caused similar rich running issues (happened at different times).
Lesson learned, don't just let your coil driver flop about.
I still haven't tested the ECT, ill try and do that ASAP.
I do have a spare coil driver out of the junkyard laying around. Do they need to be mounted to the inner fender just to test it?
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Old 06-19-2021, 10:00 PM   #195
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No need for it but you definitely need a heat sink.
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Old 06-20-2021, 02:58 PM   #196
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Swapped the ECT with a used bosch I had in my parts box. It was labeled good but I went ahead and tested it at 68, 140, and 212. Scaling is linear and resistance is on for both thermistors. I did check the wiring at the plugand cleaned the plug contacts good as well. The sensor made no change.

I swapped the coil igniter with the spare I had and no change.

I found yet another 016 in my magic box o ****, this one was labeled "bad lean" I hooked it up and the car barely idled at 22:1 afr.

Any other ideas?

Again... closed loop is fine. Load is fine. Its low load and idle that produce hunting afr and idle rpm drops.

Did a bit of finishing work on the +T. Installed an AEM dryflow filter and sock. This will be put to the test on the gambler.

I also added some DEI heat sleeving to the oil drain hose. The NBR hose is rated to 248f, but it was making me nervous being between the up pipe and exhaust manifold.

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Old 06-20-2021, 03:25 PM   #197
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You said "I have pulled the charge pipe off the intercooler to essentially eliminate the turbo from the intake and this did not change anything", did you just have the end of the maf hanging out to suck in air? I'd suggest trying it again but with at least a few inches of pipe before the maf to make sure the air isn't going all whirly dirly.

I still love the turbo setup.
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Old 06-20-2021, 06:29 PM   #198
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You said "I have pulled the charge pipe off the intercooler to essentially eliminate the turbo from the intake and this did not change anything", did you just have the end of the maf hanging out to suck in air? I'd suggest trying it again but with at least a few inches of pipe before the maf to make sure the air isn't going all whirly dirly.

I still love the turbo setup.
I disconnected the charge pipe from the coupler on the intercooler, and rotated it so there was no significant source of turbulence. So yes there was 12+" of pipe before the maf.

Any other ideas?

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Old 06-20-2021, 07:04 PM   #199
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Hmmm this is definitely weird I'd check fuel pressure just to be sure and make sure. I had a slightly bent fuel rail that caused weird issues. Maybe the hose pre main pump is getting air in it? Maybe put a hose off the fpr and stick another hose into a bucket and see if it aerated?
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Old 06-20-2021, 10:30 PM   #200
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Hmmm this is definitely weird I'd check fuel pressure just to be sure and make sure. I had a slightly bent fuel rail that caused weird issues. Maybe the hose pre main pump is getting air in it? Maybe put a hose off the fpr and stick another hose into a bucket and see if it aerated?
No change was made when I installed an aem in the tank for a main pump and ran new fuel line to the the filter area and replaced the filter. I'll see if I can use a loaner from costless or somewhere to check the pressure.
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