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M40 rebuild prob - any old schoolers out there?

J

jrv6a

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2020
Location
Florida
I scored an M40 on eBay for $75 - worth it just for spare parts! When it arrived, the input & output shafts were locked together. I opened it up and in the process found 3/8 inch play at the input shaft. When I pulled the shaft forward, I could engage the gears. In Ford Toploaders that usually means bad synchro assemblies = easy fix.

I took it all apart and cataloged the parts to make sure everything was there. It's missing the back cover for the selector rods and the speedo friction ring.

Here's a pic of the cluster all laid out. I don't see any missing parts, does anyone with more experience see something I'm overlooking that might be missing?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yat65KXlUMv5bP5OLMWRSOh3rS4OtB3I/view?usp=sharing

Unrelated question, how long before I can just add pics to my posts? I've got a long-running project I want to share.
 
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Google doesn't make it as easy as other image hosting sites to post a pic. Use the embed option and past it directly into the dialog box. Other hosting sites typically provide an address to the image which you would then use the insert image button and then paste the address into the window that pops up.

Alternatively you could make a donation to the site and when your name turns blue you can upload images directly to the server.

<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yat65KXlUMv5bP5OLMWRSOh3rS4OtB3I/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

You emailed my brother a video which I looked at and in my opinion, you didn't tighten the flange down tight enough to seat the rear bearing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XxeM1q5bI_M" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Just to be sure, did you have the metal speedometer gear in the rear bearing housing before installing the drive flange? I see it in your pic but it's not in the drawing. It needs to be in place as it acts as a spacer for the flange to push on the bearing.
 
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It's been a LONG time since I took a junkyard M41 apart and got it back together again to replace a couple of broken syncro rings, but I used this as a guide: http://www.vclassics.com/archive/tranreb.htm

It's some weird tedious moves that need to be made - since the input shaft can't clear the intermediate cluster with the intermediate cluster in place. The Tremec T5 I (slightly) took apart avoided all that nonsense by having a small semi-circular cutout on the input shaft that allowed it to come out with everything else in place.
 
hiperfauto said:
Google doesn't make it as easy as other image hosting sites to post a pic. Use the embed option and past it directly into the dialog box. Other hosting sites typically provide an address to the image which you would then use the insert image button and then paste the address into the window that pops up.

Alternatively you could make a donation to the site and when your name turns blue you can upload images directly to the server.

<iframe src="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yat65KXlUMv5bP5OLMWRSOh3rS4OtB3I/preview" width="640" height="480"></iframe>

You emailed my brother a video which I looked at and in my opinion, you didn't tighten the flange down tight enough to seat the rear bearing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XxeM1q5bI_M" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Just to be sure, did you have the metal speedometer gear in the rear bearing housing before installing the drive flange? I see it in your pic but it's not in the drawing. It needs to be in place as it acts as a spacer for the flange to push on the bearing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking a look. Your brother has been a big help. I really let the impact drill down on the flange nut until it bottomed out.

You're right about leaving the speedo drive out. It probably sounds stupid but I did that because I don't have the friction spring to hold it in place, so I figured I could reassemble without it. Now that you mention it, I can see how the flange would push on it. I'm glad I humbled myself and asked for advice. I'll pop the rear seal, drop in the speedo drive, and reinstall.
 
The metal speedo gear is sandwiched between the flange and bearing. There is no friction spring to hold it in place.
 
Good luck with your rebuild.
I used the Vclassics site pointed out as well, and parts from Eric & Ian. The worst problem that I had was keeping the thrust washers in place on the intermediate shaft. The rest was a piece of cake.

U7MlAzp.jpg
 
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