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Old 08-23-2022, 11:13 PM   #1
1968 volvo
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Default 240 exhaust gasket change.

I'm going to change out the exhaust gasket(s) on my dads 93 244. It appears to be rather easy. I figure nows a good time to ask if there are usually and unexpected surprises when doing this job? I've done a few exhaust gaskets before and I imagine it is about the same. I've already started soaking the bolts in wd40.
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Old 08-24-2022, 10:32 AM   #2
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I assume there is a leaking gasket?
There is obviously the potential for a broken stud. I'd use PB B'laster instead of WD40.
Otherwise, yes it is simple...separate manifold from head, replace gaskets, re-tighten manifold.
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Old 08-24-2022, 11:28 AM   #3
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cool this is what i assumed. i would be using blaster if i had it on hand but i figured wd was better than nothing. yes one of the gaskets is leaking. it sounds like a tractor any time you get on the gas. someone even asked me if it was diesel.
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Old 08-24-2022, 11:29 AM   #4
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Just pay attention to the orientation of the gaskets. They're not symmetrical.

And hope you don't break any studs. California is a good sign for that.
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Old 08-24-2022, 12:37 PM   #5
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cool this is what i assumed. i would be using blaster if i had it on hand but i figured wd was better than nothing. yes one of the gaskets is leaking. it sounds like a tractor any time you get on the gas. someone even asked me if it was diesel.
There is no comparison. WD-40 is almost useless as a penetrating oil. Don't attempt this job without using PB Blaster or some other known, good penetrating oil. One broken stud and you will turn a 2 hour job into an all day job.
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Old 08-24-2022, 12:42 PM   #6
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Put some anti-seize on the bolt threads going into the head; this makes future removal easier.

Clean the manifold and head surfaces well before putting new gaskets on.

Torque to spec, and retorqe after a few hot /cold cycles.
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Old 08-24-2022, 12:42 PM   #7
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i was planning on getting some so thats good.
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Old 08-24-2022, 12:43 PM   #8
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I'm not entirely sure if it's a great idea or not, but sometimes on stuff that I'm pretty sure wants to break, I'll tighten it slightly to break it loose, before switching to loosening it.
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Old 08-24-2022, 02:00 PM   #9
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I'm not entirely sure if it's a great idea or not, but sometimes on stuff that I'm pretty sure wants to break, I'll tighten it slightly to break it loose, before switching to loosening it.
I have done this before with great success. My Grandpa says thats an old farmers trick and he has used that all his life. He claims a lot of stuff as old farmers tricks and it sounds like to me that they were the smartest people to ever walk the face of the earth.
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Old 08-24-2022, 02:02 PM   #10
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Put some anti-seize on the bolt threads going into the head; this makes future removal easier.

Clean the manifold and head surfaces well before putting new gaskets on.

Torque to spec, and retorqe after a few hot /cold cycles.
do you happen to know know what spec is? I imagine around 25 ftlbs
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Old 08-24-2022, 02:33 PM   #11
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Put some anti-seize on the bolt threads going into the head; this makes future removal easier.

Clean the manifold and head surfaces well before putting new gaskets on.

Torque to spec, and retorqe after a few hot /cold cycles.
Any tips on cleaning the surfaces? Going to be doing the same job myself relatively soon - old gaskets look pretty done around the edges but not sure how bad the mating surfaces will be. Also have the downpipe gasket which will likely be even more of a pain.
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Old 08-24-2022, 03:36 PM   #12
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do you happen to know know what spec is? I imagine around 25 ftlbs
14-17 lb*ft. At 25 you will snap them off.
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Old 08-24-2022, 03:37 PM   #13
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do you happen to know know what spec is? I imagine around 25 ftlbs
Probably something more like 16-18ft lb. As suggested make sure you go back and snugg
them up after some heating cooling cycles. You should always replace the locking nuts
with new ones. They are the crimped type locking nuts made for high heat.

I usually clean surfaces like that with very fine grit cloth or sandpaper like 600 grit.
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Old 08-24-2022, 04:18 PM   #14
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Any tips on cleaning the surfaces?
There shouldn't be a lot of crud such as broken gasket material or god help us old permatex but if so soak it in gasket remover fluid then scrape off.

Clean surfaces well with either carb cleaner or brake cleaner.

YMMV, but after cleaning I get out my drill, put on the attachment that bends the angle of attack ninety degrees, put on a wire brush and dress the surfaces with the brush.

Finish off with fine grid sand paper, "just because."
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Old 08-24-2022, 06:00 PM   #15
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If you can remove all the studs, use a roloc fine grit or similar, easier with air tools, but OK on a drill, just slower. Get the flanged locknuts, and don't discard the original flat washers, they hold up much better than any generic version



these were my gaskets, and it wasn't even leaking - they just fell apart upon removal

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Old 08-24-2022, 09:34 PM   #16
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The car is a 93 and you're in California so it may be an EGR manifold too. Loosening the pipe is pretty simple in theory. Mine came right apart when I first took the manifold of, but your mileage may vary.
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Old 08-25-2022, 06:38 AM   #17
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Talking about cleaning, running a brush through the threads before reinstalling will make you happier later.
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Old 08-25-2022, 06:57 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 1968 volvo View Post
I have done this before with great success. My Grandpa says thats an old farmers trick and he has used that all his life. He claims a lot of stuff as old farmers tricks and it sounds like to me that they were the smartest people to ever walk the face of the earth.
When my grandpa first went in the Army, they asked him:

Q "What did you do in civilian life ?"
A "I was a farmer"
Q "If the tractor broke down, did you fix it yourself ?'
A "No, we just waited around for a mechanic to show up."(sarcasm)

Army personnel officer: "Ok, you're going to be a mechanic."
(he was sent an aircraft mechanic school)


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Old 08-25-2022, 03:47 PM   #19
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When my grandpa first went in the Army, they asked him:

Q "What did you do in civilian life ?"
A "I was a farmer"
Q "If the tractor broke down, did you fix it yourself ?'
A "No, we just waited around for a mechanic to show up."(sarcasm)

Army personnel officer: "Ok, you're going to be a mechanic."
(he was sent an aircraft mechanic school)


ha! My grandpa is the kind of person who paints his case orange tractors primer grey because the orange is too flashy and looks too nice and will get too dirty too fast.

https://www.google.com/search?q=case...tP6Z_YFXhywqeM

hes got one like this but primer gray.
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Old 08-25-2022, 04:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
There is no comparison. WD-40 is almost useless as a penetrating oil. Don't attempt this job without using PB Blaster or some other known, good penetrating oil. One broken stud and you will turn a 2 hour job into an all day job.
Quite true.

I did this same repair on a '93 245 last year with more than 330,000 miles on it. It still had the original exhaust gaskets at both locations.

Not only did I snap off one of the header studs (where the manifold meets the "downpipe"), but I also snapped off an exhaust stud in the head.

Both happened after repeated, generous dousings of PB'laster over the course of several days.

It really made me wish I had one of these tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Buster-Power-...dp/B074438D7D/


If it feels like the nut is not budging, STOP. If you don't, it's just more suffering.
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Old 08-25-2022, 06:28 PM   #21
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if you can remove all the studs, use a roloc fine grit or similar, easier with air tools, but ok on a drill, just slower. Get the flanged locknuts, and don't discard the original flat washers, they hold up much better than any generic version



these were my gaskets, and it wasn't even leaking - they just fell apart upon removal

do not!!! Use a rolc sander unless yuo want to f'up the surface.
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Old 08-25-2022, 08:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 283SD View Post
do not!!! Use a rolc sander unless yuo want to f'up the surface.
You have to know which grit disc to use. As stated, I use the fine disc. It does not eat the aluminum. You just have to pay attention to what you are doing.
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:06 PM   #23
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You guys are scaring me lol
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Old 08-25-2022, 09:21 PM   #24
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You can also go over it with a block sander, also works as long as the studs are removed. Works well for the exhaust manifold also. I used 240 grit on this header, they didn't finish it well from the manufacturer.

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Old 08-31-2022, 04:34 PM   #25
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Ok. I’ve been really busy but also on my free time I’ve been trying to get a broken stud off the head. I have very limited tools at my disposal but if anyone have any more suggestions I’m all ears. The stud has been broken for a while as I found it that way. I tried double nutting it several times with no success. The nuts slipped both times and then on the third time I stripped the threads on the stud. I also tried whacking it with a hammer to break it free. It’s been soaking in pb for the past couple of days and not any help. I also tried vice grips on the already messed up threads. I stripped the teeth on my vice grips and it still didn’t go. I literally used channel locks to lock the vice grips in place. I’m out of things I know how to do with my tools. If anyone knows more tricks I would be willing to listen. My current plan is to re tap the threads on the stud and then double nut with red thread locker on the stud to see if that even does anything. My tool, arms, and mind have taken quite a beating. What’s next?
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