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Old 10-05-2022, 04:53 PM   #1
1968 volvo
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Default Four 240 questions

Ok here’s the car. 1993 Volvo 240 na (I don’t know if this even came with a turbo) auto. It needs a couple of things done to it but keep in mind I’m on a budget and I’m going to daily it also as far as I can tell… this thing has well over 300k on it. It still runs strong and I have no concerns about it being near its end.

1 the shocks are SHOT. Like trampoline status. They need replaced. Any suggestions guys? Maybe a bit more sporty than stock but something my mom would still be comfortable in. I can’t spend too much on this. Any suggestions?

2 it needs new motor mounts. I basically have the same requirements as the shocks…

3 what I think is related to the shot motor mounts is my transmission cooling lines are leaking. It’s a substantial leak. My question is should I try and just tighten them when I replace the mounts?

4 after all this is through, I want to put in a more gooder camshaft. Would I even notice this on a na car? I live in California and still need to pass smog. What’s a good camshaft? I’m willing to spend a bit more on a camshaft. It needs to sneak past the smog dudes, but still do something. Is this possible?
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Old 10-05-2022, 08:15 PM   #2
dl242gt
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OK I'll give you some options I can think of.
1. Swedish car parts shocks, Gabriel Ultra struts and shocks, Sachs super touring struts and shocks. These all gave me good value for the molaah.
2 The usual first motor mount upgrade is to buy the turbo or diesel mount for the passenger side. A stock mount on the left side if fine.
3 Diagnose. Wipe them down and see where the leak is coming from.
There are orings on the fittings you can replace if they leak at the trans.
4 The real answer to number three is manual swap it. Then for number
four you can put in a B or A cam. The B cam is more emissions friendly
as it actually did pass USA emissions back in the day. The B cam will work with your automatic as well but the car will be much more enjoyable after you manual swap it.
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Old 10-05-2022, 10:44 PM   #3
1968 volvo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
OK I'll give you some options I can think of.
1. Swedish car parts shocks, Gabriel Ultra struts and shocks, Sachs super touring struts and shocks. These all gave me good value for the molaah.
2 The usual first motor mount upgrade is to buy the turbo or diesel mount for the passenger side. A stock mount on the left side if fine.
3 Diagnose. Wipe them down and see where the leak is coming from.
There are orings on the fittings you can replace if they leak at the trans.
4 The real answer to number three is manual swap it. Then for number
four you can put in a B or A cam. The B cam is more emissions friendly
as it actually did pass USA emissions back in the day. The B cam will work with your automatic as well but the car will be much more enjoyable after you manual swap it.
Thanks for the time in your response. Do you have a part number or something for the oring and the mounts? I’m pretty sure it’s leaking from the transmission side. I should have included that. I’ll check again though. I would love to manual swap it but that’s gotta be more expensiver than a camshaft? For the car being an auto, the transmission in it doesn’t totally suck and I do like the ease of driving that the auto supplies. Also this is my daily and I can’t afford to take on projects that take more than a day or two to complete at my snails pace. I would never replace the auto in it with an other auto if it ever got fried, but that sounds like a project for future me. Ipd sells a camshaft it looks like it costs a pretty penny is that happen to be a b or a cam? Also I heard some nonsense about using shims to set valve gaps. What the garbage is that and is it hard to do?
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Old 10-06-2022, 02:19 PM   #4
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1-Pick-N-Pull half-off KYB gas-adjusts? ‘Regular (non air) Shock’ is pretty reasonable on the junkyard menu, Windsor is close, easy to tell I’d the white kybs are leaking or frozen or have a dead spot at the top, easy to remove from a 240 in the junkyard & then you’ll have rear shock hardware while you’re at it & know how to do the job without doing damage from practice on a junker & how to get some idea if used shocks are any good?
White, If not leaking they last a while, good poor man’s Bilstein?

As to the fluid filled shocks or cheaper junk new, why bother?
Tokicos or whatever kyb calls their other gas charged shock used to be decent(ish). Struts are a lot more involved to replace and impact gun/shooting springs in the junkyard & trying to get those out for ‘regular shock’ price on half off isn’t as straight forward as rears.

2. The corteco diesel mounts or drill the driver bracket for two larger passenger mounts and out toothy tapered screws thru the motor mount plate with some glue that wont back out snd will sit flush so the mounts don’t rip as easy, fix the oil leaks so they don’t get oil soaked…
…sans a 3rd engine torque mount or better designed engine mounts the 240s should have come with…
Or just junkyard used & somewhat stiff snd drill press screw treatment if they aren’t jell-o and ripped at the plate and flip them upside down so they sag the other way?
Some of the new craptermarket Thaiwang rubber is real doodoo?
I’d almost rather have OE and half gone?
The motor probably flops around a little less like a fish on Swedish cold weather cars as the mounts are nice and stiff when I was going between near Duluth, MN & Edmonton, AB in the winter I’d the engine isn’t leaking hot oil on them snd dissolving them?

But typical neglected American 240 in warm inland north bay CA weather the motor will be floppin’ & jankin’ on hoses & wires etc and probably the oil gets hot and leaks everywhere on motor mounts in shear close together essentially underneath the tall/tippy SOHC often leaky engine.

3-Where’s the trans cooling line leak? Rubbed thru/fatigued at the bellhousing aluminum bracket is common enough?
Smells lovely & toxic/takes forever for all the ATF to burn off the late model insulation blanket style downpipes. Compression fittings cleanflametrap style repair?
Or is it leaking at the radiator fittings or trans fittings or fitting o-rings at the trans?

4-Cant say on exact smog + cam…it’s pretty tight there is my understanding if passing on-time legitimately, not accruing back registration &/or getting tagged as a gross polluter / popping up on the radar for future harassment by that evil extortionist totalitarian peoples republic or CA messed up state!

Has it got late 1993 CA emissions to begin with w/pulse air injection, late 940Turbo size cat converter & EGR or is it a 49-state model?
T & A cam are both pretty mild, T is fairly common and sucks slightly less than the M but still has enough stump pulling power to scoot you around town with the stock rather uninspiring automatique for usable power in the days of $5-6 gas I wouldn’t do anything to make it more annoying to smog it or make it thirstier?

It’ll never be fast by modern car standards and Itd annoy me to have to try to pass CA smog, some of which has tighter NOX #s in parts of cali than when the cars were new! That I’d tread lightly & just run a T at most and count my blessings that it can stump pull off idle, sip fuel & isn’t totally flat on its face at 4000-4500rpm like the M cam?

That said, a tip top of running redblock with dimly healthy late model OE 940Turbo sized cat will usually pass, especially with all the alcohol in the gas, jumping the LH pins to regard the timing a little and a warm 92*C thermostat. It’ll be a slow turd but it’ll go thru snd I wouldn’t pop my head up on the radar & it’s against my religion to buy non-OE cat converters or cat converters at all Vs. Keep the car running tip top/make the correct diagnosis and call it a day?

Valve lash clearance is adjusted by replacing shims in the top of the litter bucket. Same size shim between a lot of eurotrash 2-valve engines.
Rent the kit from ipd or if you got more time than Money make sure they aren’t rattly in the bucket or worn in the middle snd take your micrometer to the junkyard snd collect snd make your own kit from tedious eurotrash cars.

Ipd sells their regrind VX or Vx3 cam I think? It’s not OE metal which I don’t care for for wear characteristics to the bucket for the long haul & not really that impressive in an automatic car in daily use.

The ratios are pretty wide in the manual trans compared fo the pre emissions pushrod Volvos & kinda suck too? The auto is nice for traffic/daily use. I’ll miss my beater automatic car when it’s gone, but if you plan to keep it forever & are a skin flint and want lowest cost of ownership & ultimately rebuildable, manual makes sense. That said, most of the manual Volvos are rusted out &/or have 500,000+ miles on them &/or the relatively rare ‘87+ models w/M47 the M47s are all notchy and noisy & the Toyota / Aisin auto is kinda easier to get parts and knowledge for, sooo?
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Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 10-06-2022 at 02:41 PM..
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Old 10-06-2022, 02:28 PM   #5
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KYB shocks are the best bang for the buck
As for engine mounts I personally would just use stock, you are not going to be pushing enough power to need anything better
and for 3 and 4 manual swap would be best for both, but If you need to stay auto for your mom then you do need to properly diagnose it, then ask again. And if you are going for a cam be prepaird to play a search and wait game for valve shims. Some are almost impossible to find. Lastly if you need any help let me know, Ive got a small vintage volvo shop down in stockton.
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Old 10-06-2022, 02:54 PM   #6
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I would check in with Hiperfauto they will have the orings you need. When you swap cams it's a good idea to measure and set the valve lash. You'll need shims if you are adjusting the valve clearance. I usually measure and then get the shims I need if I don't have a shim kit. You can rent the shim kit from hiperfauto or IPD. Hiperfauto will also rent you the tools so it makes the job easy.

The cam IPD sells for n/a is the VX3 an emissions n/a cam for Europe. It runs ok but for much less I'd buy a B or A or even the T cam if you want lots of low end torque.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:05 PM   #7
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Thinking about buying a b cam fin the Volvo rescue
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:06 PM   #8
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As far as the mounts are concerned, the Volvo Blue Box mounts are likely reboxed aftermarket mounts these days. I have just used Meyle and other good quality aftermarket brands for these types of parts. The Blue Box 240 strut mounts are total garbage now. Ever since Geeley bought Volvo they have farmed out the replacement parts to the cheapest bidder.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Thinking about buying a b cam fin the Volvo rescue
That's a good choice. The IPD VX3 is total crap for a typical stock 240.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 1968 volvo View Post
Thinking about buying a b cam fin the Volvo rescue
Shave the head 0.030" as well for a significant torque improvement. It will still pass emissions if the rest of the engine and emissions equipment is up to snuff. I've never had one fail smog that was lightly modified. Just the usual tune-up stuff is all that's needed. I took a high mileage car that barely ran (cam off 1-tooth) through PDX DEQ/smog and it was fine since the cat was still working.

I like the Gabriel Ultra shocks, or Sachs Super touring. Rock Auto, amazon, ebay, IPD, and FCP are your best bets on sourcing parts.

Motor mounts: stock if you don't want to deal with drilling the motor mount brackets for stiffer mounts. Or use the Diesel mounts as suggested.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:19 PM   #11
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1: Anything Bilstein I'd say is off limits. The B4/TC rears rattle (still, some people may have had luck) and B6's in the front don't technically fit 90+ strut tubes.
4: I have a T cam in my automatic NA, it feels like stock until 3000rpm and then it just keeps making power until 4500rpm. It makes accelerating to highway speed and then using 3rd at highway speed to accelerate a breeze while still being mild mannered. Not a fast car, but it just shifted the rev range a little to something more optimal than the M. Make sure you do a valve adjustment when the cam is out.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:20 PM   #12
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Shave the head 0.030" as well for a significant torque improvement. It will still pass emissions if the rest of the engine and emissions equipment is up to snuff. I've never had one fail smog that was lightly modified. Just the usual tune-up stuff is all that's needed. I took a high mileage car that barely ran (cam off 1-tooth) through PDX DEQ/smog and it was fine since the cat was still working.

I like the Gabriel Ultra shocks, or Sachs Super touring. Rock Auto, amazon, ebay, IPD, and FCP are your best bets on sourcing parts.

Motor mounts: stock if you don't want to deal with drilling the motor mount brackets for stiffer mounts. Or use the Diesel mounts as suggested.
Stock motor mounts from which supplier? I haven't bought any from Volvo for 15+ years. I don't know what they are selling now.
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:38 PM   #13
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Febi/Bilstein mounts are what I've been using lately. They seem to hold up pretty well and they actually fit. I bought some off brand junk from Worldpac because that's all they had and they didn't even fit. The locating pins were in the wrong location.

Valve shims are no problem.

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showp...0&postcount=14
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Old 10-06-2022, 03:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
Stock motor mounts from which supplier? I haven't bought any from Volvo for 15+ years. I don't know what they are selling now.
Whatever is cheap on Rock Auto, usually MTC garbage. They all suck equally in my experience. That's why I always switch to 164 mounts (the hex ones) and just drill out the motor mount brackets.
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Old 10-06-2022, 04:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Febi/Bilstein mounts are what I've been using lately. They seem to hold up pretty well and they actually fit. I bought some off brand junk from Worldpac because that's all they had and they didn't even fit. The locating pins were in the wrong location.

Valve shims are no problem.

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showp...0&postcount=14
Mind boggling. The junk that is being manufactured and sold these days is just pathetic. Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:30 PM   #16
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I like to use the hex 164 engine mount on the m46. Makes the shifting feel better because the trans doesn't move around at all.
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Old 10-08-2022, 08:35 AM   #17
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Can I run different shocks on the front and rear so long as the sides aren’t different?
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Old 10-08-2022, 08:43 AM   #18
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Bilstien————————Gabriel
|==o===========0====
|f•••••••••••••••• •••••••••••]R
|r•••••••••••••••• •••••••••••]E
|o•••••••••••••••• •••••••••••]A
|n•••••••••••••••• •••••••••••]R
|t•••••••••••••••• •••••••••••]
|==o===========0====
Bilstien———————Gabriel
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Old 10-08-2022, 03:20 PM   #19
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if you want comfortable shocks for Mom don't get Bilstein anything
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Old 10-08-2022, 05:08 PM   #20
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Gabriel and KYB?
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Old 10-08-2022, 05:20 PM   #21
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For a reasonable comfort ride. I also like the kyb GR2 shocks. Not the gas adjust shocks which are stiff.
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Old 10-08-2022, 06:15 PM   #22
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Comfortable and sporty>sporty>comfortable>bouncy
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Old 10-08-2022, 06:18 PM   #23
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Should I replace strut mounts and other parts while I’m in there?
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Old 10-08-2022, 06:39 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culberro View Post
Whatever is cheap on Rock Auto, usually MTC garbage. They all suck equally in my experience. That's why I always switch to 164 mounts (the hex ones) and just drill out the motor mount brackets.
I use dea mounts. They're $3 a piece. Made in India if that makes a difference. Been using them since 2015 on tons of 240s. Works fine. No engine flopping.
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Old 10-08-2022, 06:46 PM   #25
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I use dea mounts. They're $3 a piece. Made in India if that makes a difference. Been using them since 2015 on tons of 240s. Works fine. No engine flopping.
Ok
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