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Old 09-19-2022, 11:21 AM   #76
wht_245wagoon
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I will check the lines to see if I may have put them on backwards, before I drain the pan. If they are on backwards I will correct the lines and refill. Can I put oil down the dipstick hole since the head is off or which hole in the block can I refill the oil with?
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:59 PM   #77
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You can dump oil in your removed head and see where is comes out the bottom. I see several return holes in the block where you could add more oil to repeat your tests.

I would also be concerned about rod and main crankshaft bearing damage if you have been running the engine with no oil pressure.
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Old 09-19-2022, 11:44 PM   #78
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I think the 3 outermost holes between the cylinders on the intake side all drain to the sump, but I'm not certain. If you haven't already dumped all 4 qts of oil on the ground, I'd just spin the aux shaft with whatever oil is left.

Here's some pics of a B21FT block, which should be similar to a B230:



I haven't seen any diagrams showing the oil paths, so I'm guessing a bit here but it looks like:
- the pump transfer tube goes up to the main filter-side oil galley between cyls 3&4
- the main galley goes to the block/rod bearings [???] and
- to the oil filter outer hole
- the oil filter return (center pipe) goes up the block to the head (teardrop relief) and
- to the pressure gauge
- the block-to-head passage goes to the cam bearings and
- drips down on the intake side to the sump

If this is correct and the oil filter relocation kit was somehow blocking oil flow, I'd expect good pressure to the block/rod bearings, but bad pressure at the gauge and at the cam bearings.
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Old 09-20-2022, 11:07 AM   #79
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I remember the engine having oil pressure before and the oil pressure light never came on. I still need to remove the oil pan and check to see if the oil pump seals are good and that it is engaging in the aux shaft. Also check the relocation lines to make sure I didn't swap them.
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Old 09-20-2022, 03:26 PM   #80
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I wouldn't remove the pan at this point.

However, I would make sure your oil pressure warning bulb is installed and working. Turn the key on and the light should be on. Ground out the wire to the sensor and the bulb should turn off. 240's are known for failed wiring for the oil pressure sensor and the alternator. The wiring rots where it goes under the front of the engine.

As mentioned, I would repeat the test with the oil pressure sensor removed. Quick and easy test.

I think the oil passage goes straight up from the oil filter to the head. I also see an oil passage for the block going horizonally along the block from the filter. I see another oil passage which contains the turbo oil feed and the oil pressure switch.
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Old 09-20-2022, 03:39 PM   #81
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Can you check for oil pressure with the head off or does it need to go back on? I have an oil pressure gauge that I put the stock hole with an adapter but can switch it back to the stock sensor.
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Old 09-20-2022, 03:51 PM   #82
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Can you check for oil pressure with the head off or does it need to go back on? I have an oil pressure gauge that I put the stock hole with an adapter but can switch it back to the stock sensor.
Oil pressure has to do with resistance. IOW, no, you can't check for oil pressure with the head off. Not without blocking off the passages that supply the camshaft and followers with oil.
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Old 09-20-2022, 05:01 PM   #83
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Does oil come out of the oil pressure switch port??
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Old 09-20-2022, 05:48 PM   #84
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I will check it when I get off of work and check to see if I got the hoses backwards.
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Old 09-20-2022, 10:20 PM   #85
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Update. Thank you for the suggestion on checking the hoses. I took a look at the relocation hoses and they were set to in-in and out-out so the oil would go into the filter but not back out again. With the lines set up as OUT of block and In into relocation and OUT of relocation and IN into the block when spinning the AUX shaft the oil comes out of the block at the teardrop on the front left or stud #8. Going to put the head back on and see if the oil comes out of the cam journals next.

Head is back on and torqued down to spec. Oil comes up and into the cam journals. Going to begin to put it back together. Anything I should look out for?

Last edited by wht_245wagoon; 09-20-2022 at 11:00 PM..
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Old 09-20-2022, 11:09 PM   #86
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You got it! Glad we could help.

I would double check your oil pressure switch wiring as I mentioned. I blew an engine having mine disconnected and running low on oil. The switch simply closes the circuit to ground when the oil pressure is below (7-10?) psi. The wiring commonly shorts to ground and sometimes a previous owner takes the bulb out of the cluster. I would confirm that the lamp is operating normally.

I would put a new headgasket, new bolts, and new hushers. Get a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to setup the valve lash.

Last edited by ZVOLV; 09-20-2022 at 11:39 PM..
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Old 09-20-2022, 11:35 PM   #87
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Great, glad the oil is flowing again.

After looking at more pictures, I now think that the crank/rod bearings are lubricated from the oil galley after the filter (which makes better sense). Unfortunately, this means that you were probably running with low pressure to all the bearings when the cam seized. Before putting the timing belt back on, I'd pull the plugs and rotate the crank by hand to see if it still turns smoothly. If so, button it back up, cross your fingers, and be glad it's a redblock.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:09 AM   #88
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I followed the book instructions when putting the head back on and installed the crank. I needed to rotate it to get the #1 to TDC and it was smooth. When it ran before my oil guage worked great. I will switch it back and put the stock sender back into the block so the dash light is done. I am going to reuse the head gasket and bolts as they have maybe 40 minutes on them ans look brand new. The hushers are also new when I swapped the head over. I have a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to check valve lash. I measured the shim thickness already and will check and see if it needs to be adjusted. Will keep you guys posted on the changes.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:23 AM   #89
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Take a look at your remote cooler setup - there may be a plug in it which could be removed to add a pressure gauge or switch on the return side. You'll need to check the thread size.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:47 AM   #90
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If you use the 5 bar VDO gauge (whether Volvo branded or not) you can get a sender with both a warning light output (on/off) and gauge output.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:24 PM   #91
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I am going to reuse the head gasket
yeah I dunno know...
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:51 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
You got it! Glad we could help.

I would double check your oil pressure switch wiring as I mentioned. I blew an engine having mine disconnected and running low on oil. The switch simply closes the circuit to ground when the oil pressure is below (7-10?) psi. The wiring commonly shorts to ground and sometimes a previous owner takes the bulb out of the cluster. I would confirm that the lamp is operating normally.

I would put a new headgasket, new bolts, and new hushers. Get a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer to setup the valve lash.
Definitely a new gasket but everything else can be reused.
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Old 09-21-2022, 12:53 PM   #93
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Take a look at your remote cooler setup - there may be a plug in it which could be removed to add a pressure gauge or switch on the return side. You'll need to check the thread size.
Most aftermarket setups do have plugs. Most commonly 1/8 npt. Depends if its like a derale setup or something similar, those might not have plugs.
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:08 PM   #94
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I originally had the gauge sender plug into the remote setup and it worked. I wanted to set it up on in the stock location so I moved it. I am going to put it back. So that I have both the dummy light and the gauge.

How long should the head gasket last? I just changed it when I swapped the head over and maybe had the engine running for 30 minutes total while checking things over.
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:31 PM   #95
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bolts torqued down and never got hot you'd probably be ok re-using, I have done this and it's held for 4-5 years now, but not a turbo
bolts torqued down and engine hot forget it, you need a new one
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:37 PM   #96
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Yea the engine never got hot and bolts didn't get the retorque per book. For the most part the engine idled as I was trying to see why my tach doesn't function.
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Old 09-21-2022, 01:39 PM   #97
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if it ran it got hot
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Old 09-21-2022, 03:29 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by TheMenaceSD View Post
I originally had the gauge sender plug into the remote setup and it worked. I wanted to set it up on in the stock location so I moved it. I am going to put it back. So that I have both the dummy light and the gauge.

How long should the head gasket last? I just changed it when I swapped the head over and maybe had the engine running for 30 minutes total while checking things over.
A head gasket is $17. What is your time to replace one worth? IOW, I would put in a new gasket. Especially since the B230 heads are seldom straight unless they have just been surfaced.
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Old 09-21-2022, 03:35 PM   #99
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I'll have to order one when I get paid.
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Old 09-21-2022, 04:22 PM   #100
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I'll have to order one when I get paid.
You can get an erling gasket for $25 with shipping from rockauto. You use to be able get head gaskets from autozone or orellieys for around $20. But prices have doubled. Rockauto ships fast too .
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