• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Duder's Beige Brick - ARUNDL - 1981 242 DL +B230FT

Then it was time for some lazy Saturday afternoon maintenance on ARUNDL. The aftermarket crankcase breather box blew apart a while back, after only a few years and not many miles in service. It left a disappointing oil mess all over the block. So I pulled that biatch and replaced it with a OE Volvo part. The OE box is plastic welded, and aftermarket part looked like it was glued together. Doh. 🤦















The old and busted as I found it:



Peered into the intake ports and saw that the valves are quite clean, actually.



 
Recently I finally had gotten fed up with the tiny little PC680 battery always dying. It's an ATV battery basically, so you might wonder what's wrong with me to expect it to behave like a car battery should, but it did maintain a charge when I was driving the car regularly (pre-COVID). The extended periods of sitting weren't kind to the little guy. I have not yet checked for a parasitic drain but my suspicion was that the little 5+ year old AGM didn't like being treated like a deep cycle marine battery.

This time I ponied up for a real man's car battery, but stayed with the Odyssey AGM brand. The new one is a 47-650 and fits like a late model standard 240 battery. 660 CCA and 60 A-h capacity, and it's heavy. It's such a relief to get in the car after it's been sitting for a while and not have to wonder if it's going to start, then lug out the charger when it inevitably doesn't. It just starts now, and quicker too.

My little PC680 had its own custom aluminum box that I got from Karl, which bolted down to the stock battery bracket, and my OE steel tray had rusted out years ago. So I got some "overnight parts from Oregon" in the form of a late model fiberglass / plastic tray and clamp from Roy - thanks man! Yay for OEM+++. Job done.







 
Funny how my mind has been in the same place. Scored a deep cycle PC680 battery recently. Still making up my mind on whether to mount it in the engine bay or trunk.

As for crankcase ventilation, I have an idea involving a pro-vent 200, some BMW brake booster check valves, and a couple reducing fittings.

Hope the DL treats you well through the ever more occasional drives.
 
I had a similar problem with the FCP "OEM" breather box. Not sure it lasted three months, and it failed the same way. Pretty frustrating.

Bummer man. Mine lasted a bit longer but was also from FCP I think. In this case OEM may mean that a manufacturer (supplier) that Volvo uses makes this part, but they don't necessarily make it to the Volvo spec. The "Volvo OE" part I bought could in fact be made by the same manufacturer but to a higher standard and using a different assembly process. A lot of ins & outs, what have yous.

Funny how my mind has been in the same place. Scored a deep cycle PC680 battery recently. Still making up my mind on whether to mount it in the engine bay or trunk.

As for crankcase ventilation, I have an idea involving a pro-vent 200, some BMW brake booster check valves, and a couple reducing fittings.

Hope the DL treats you well through the ever more occasional drives.

Thanks! Yeah I want to do a trunk mount with this big beefy battery, either in the buttcheek or on the upper shelf over the axle. That will be Phase 2. Need to figure out routing and start sourcing parts. I'll probably re-use the same plastic tray when I move it.

The Provent is on my future upgrade list as well. Once I finally turn up the boost and swap the turbo. For now I have enough other lingering things to sort out but someday the biggest issue will be that it isn't fast enough.
 
Last edited:
I've been shocked that my 680 is still trucking. I hardly drive the car, throw the optimizer on it once in a while, and it's hanging in there. I should get it on the charger now that you remind me.. I also put a PC925 in the solar system for my driveway gates and that is holding up well in a tough environment (sitting in a battery box in the snow waiting for a few amps to flow)

Curious if you looked at any lithium batteries before going for the bigger AGM?
 
Bummer man. Mine lasted a bit longer but was also from FCP I think. In this case OEM may mean that a manufacturer (supplier) that Volvo uses makes this part, but they don?t necessarily make it to the Volvo spec. The ?Volvo OE? part I bought could in fact be made by the same manufacturer but to a higher standard and using a different assembly process. A lot of ins & outs, what have yous.

Yeah, must have been the case. I don't remember how the halves were attached on mine but I know it's not an uncommon thing to have happen to the aftermarket ones. I've heard of folks redoing the plastic weld but I just replaced the whole thing having lost confidence in the part.

It's fun to hear about the little differences in aftermarket vs. OE parts on a supplier level. Although maybe less so in this case...
 
I've been shocked that my 680 is still trucking. I hardly drive the car, throw the optimizer on it once in a while, and it's hanging in there. I should get it on the charger now that you remind me.. I also put a PC925 in the solar system for my driveway gates and that is holding up well in a tough environment (sitting in a battery box in the snow waiting for a few amps to flow)

Curious if you looked at any lithium batteries before going for the bigger AGM?

Hey Mike, well good to hear your 680 is working out, maybe you have been kinder to it than I was to mine. I only recently bought a smart charger that has a distinct AGM mode so maybe my charging (and discharging) behaviors were what killed it. Coupled with infrequent short trips I suppose.

Ah, the thought of having a driveway with gates is a nice one...someday!

I didn't seriously look at any lithium batteries, mostly because of cost, but also because they are more sensitive with how they are charged - either by an external battery charger or by the car's charging system. Balance charging is ideal for lithium cells and I'm not sure if a Denso 100A alternator would've kept a Li-ion battery happy. But mostly they cost too much... mostly.

Yeah, must have been the case. I don't remember how the halves were attached on mine but I know it's not an uncommon thing to have happen to the aftermarket ones. I've heard of folks redoing the plastic weld but I just replaced the whole thing having lost confidence in the part.

It's fun to hear about the little differences in aftermarket vs. OE parts on a supplier level. Although maybe less so in this case...

The breather box that failed on my car wasn't welded, it looked like the halves were stuck together with some form of urethane maybe.

Yeah it's definitely interesting to dive into the details of how a particular part is made, and how the design, materials, & manufacturing details change when the customer is an OE auto company vs. an aftermarket distributor network. There are also myriad complex legal arrangements and restrictions on how an OE part can be sold into the aftermarket, if at all. The classic thing is to grind the customer's logo off of your cast or molded part and sell it in a different box but even that isn't kosher when the customer (car manufacturer) paid for the tooling, or the production line, and so on. Sometimes as a supplier it's necessary to reverse engineer your own part, to an extent! Silly stuff. But yeah maybe the breather boxes are all made by Valeo or Hella or whomever, but they could be produced with different methods, in different plants on opposite sides of the world and have the same corporate source.
 
I almost forgot another riveting update about a highly critical part... the rear window louvers.

My wife bought this for me as a gift a few years back - this is the Latvian copy of the Volvo-branded part, which you can find on ebay. I believe it's fiberglass with black gelcoat on the exterior to resemble injection molded plastic.

When it showed up there was no installation kit included so I originally just stuck it directly to the rear window using VHB. That eventually started to fail, so I pulled them off and ordered a generic louver mounting kit designed for Camaros and Mustangs I think. This kit included stainless rectangles with studs welded to them and trim tape on the back side. I located 4 of them on the edges of the louvers, so I can add an official mounting kit in the future if I want to. The fiberglass louver part is held onto the studs with thumb nutz.

We'll see how well this holds...seems fine so far.





 
Nice! Patterned gelcoat trips me out. Imagining the labor and old school tech involved.

Oooh that looks nice!

Thanks! I think they probably pulled a mold off of an original injection molded part. The level of detail is really good though. My guess is they spray the gelcoat into the mold first, then lay up the glass. That's the way I used to make fiberglass parts, back in my composites days.
 
I'm deep in HVAC HELL

The damn heater core sprung a leak last year and the car has been parked for longer than I care to admit. This is a '93 HVAC box that I swapped in a few years back, and I even pressure tested the heater core before installing. But it was an old original one, and I used a 150 kPa green surge tank cap, so I was probably asking for it. The carpet got soaked, the heater box got filled with coolant, and you can see the crusty oxidation all over the lower bracket. And this happened after I replaced all the heater hoses, the bulkhead connector, and the heater valve.











HVAC box is fully dismantled now and a new blower motor & resistor are going in along with the new aluminum heater core.

ARUNDL will live again! After riding along with Jacob and Alex in their dope-ass whiteblock swapped 240s on the sporty drive during Davis weekend, I got inspired to get back on this thing. So - more updates will be coming soon. More importantly, more driving will be coming soon.
 
Last edited:
What blower motor are you going with?

Hey Ben! I have a Continental brand blower motor. Any particular reason to be concerned?

Also have an Omega brand heater core (aluminum), and Volvo OE blower motor resistor & recirc door vacuum actuator.
 
Hey Ben! I have a Continental brand blower motor. Any particular reason to be concerned?

Also have an Omega brand heater core (aluminum), and Volvo OE blower motor resistor & recirc door vacuum actuator.

ATM, I don't have any first hand knowledge of that,,, just anxiety of an upcoming blower motor job and making a decision on a potentially substandard aftermarket blower motor.
 
Gotcha. I tried to get an OE Volvo blower motor and heater core earlier this year but they were not available (not to mention quite a bit pricier). I know that Continental owns VDO but I'm not sure if the VDO brand blower motors are equivalent to the one I have with the Continental label on it. They look basically the same in photos.

I haven't done the most extensive research on aftermarket brands and reliability but if I find anything helpful I'll share. Feel free to add anything you can find.
 
I'll give you a hint: it's from a 240 and it's hard to get to :-P





95mm inducer!


I like the way they numbered the channels between blades.
 
Back
Top