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Radtap's 1980 242

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Sub box built and carpeted, I'll clean up that wire eventually, also forgot to paint the inside of the port but oh well. Had some help from 2turbotoys picking out the sub & amp, sounds pretty damn good. Now if I can just keep the engine in the car...

Lost the plans but I have the dimensions written down if anyone wants them, with the amp mounted to the top I only have half an inch of clearance so I'm gonna keep an eye on those temps to make sure the amp doesn't get too toasty.
 
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Motor mounts are finally done, ended up not using land rover mount because it was about 3/4 inch shorter than oem and I don't know how I feel about that.

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Passenger side just completely gave out. That would explain my return hose suddenly being out of position.

For future reference on drivers side unbolt mount from crossmember and block, found it easier to reinstall when bolted to block and lower entire mount into crossmember, same for passenger side but assembly is in different order on passenger side, take oil filter off and remove entire bracket once again. Simply not enough room with the air meter and old york compressor to unbolt the bushing from the actual brackets without lifting the engine. Did it without lifting the car which is always a win in my book
 
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Now that the engine is secured to the chassis I decided to redo the rear deck because the glue had failed and I had gotten some speakers and needed to install them.

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Pulled the vinyl off and built some new speaker boxes to mount directly to the shelf board

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New vinyl and some covers for the speakers with speaker fabric, little spray glue overspray I need to clean up

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In the car. The covers came out a little taller than I'm happy with but that's because I ran out of smaller material. Gonna pick some up this week and remake those but ultimately pretty happy with how it came out. Gotta adjust the fit and clean some extra glue but not too bad. I built the speaker boxes to allow the magnet to fit through the original holes on the shelf board and steel body so no cutting involved there, these speakers are stupid deep and the magnet hangs over an inch into the trunk
 
Plan is a Pioneer SH322/310-BT, Polk 5.25 up front and 6x9 in the rear, debating what to do for sub, issue is most places either don't have the stereo or have it at 3x original price, bestbuy has it at original price I just gotta actually order the stuff. The 244 has a single self powered 8in sub under the pass seat but I don't feel it's enough, thinking of 2 self powered subs under either seat but I also have a 12in sub sitting & collecting dust in the shop so we'll see.

Did you have to lift the seat at all to fit a sub under there? I want to do the same thing and fit a driver in a custom box under each seat.
 
Did you have to lift the seat at all to fit a sub under there? I want to do the same thing and fit a driver in a custom box under each seat.

No, it was the Rockville 8in slim unit iirc and it just barely fit. Don?t know about under the drivers seat but fit under pass. I ended up installing a sub box in the trunk of the 242 and I?m far happier with that sound than the self powered subs.
 
No, it was the Rockville 8in slim unit iirc and it just barely fit. Don?t know about under the drivers seat but fit under pass. I ended up installing a sub box in the trunk of the 242 and I?m far happier with that sound than the self powered subs.

Sweet. I have one of those subs in my daughters car.

I will be building enclosures for 6.5's to go under the seats to be mid-basses. Probably 60-250hz or so. If I go much above 250 ish I don't think an under seat speaker will sound that good. But they will definitely add some beef to the 4" in the doors.

I will then feel out whether I want a sub or not.

Looking at using these: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-LW150-4-6-Low-Profile-Woofer-4-Ohms-295-255
 
Those look fancy, my only worry would be those subs overpowering the front speakers. I was afraid my 6x9s in the rear would be too much for 5.25 in the door but it’s just perfect. Close enough to the door speakers and further but larger rear speakers even it all out. Haven’t touched front/back balance at all. I don’t have the self powered sub in my 244 even remotely turned up so it’s not an issue for me, just vibrates the seats and plays lows decent enough. Definitely not gonna put a single sub under a seat again though. Driving down the road I get mids and highs in the left ear and lows in the right if the volume is cranked. I would put 5.25 speakers in your doors if I were you. The Polk speakers do not fit the Volvo 5.25 grilles but do fit BNE’s and Propav8r’s grilles and brackets. Very happy with my Polk set up
 
I am driving everything with a DSP. I can turn them up or down as needed.

It will also be able to switch between the cassette deck for my Meatloaf tapes and my phone for everything else.
 
Mounted some Bosch Pilots and a later chin spoiler

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Drilled a new set of holes on the chin spoiler so I could mount it a little higher, does slightly block tow hook cover from coming off but I also have a light in the way

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With it mounted up higher the back corner meets the edge of the bumper well enough

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I think it looks good, going to repaint it when I get a bit of time, engine harness started shorting earlier this week so that's getting taken car of this weekend, fun times!
 
Replace your 30+ yr old harness folks

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Harness started shorting this week and engaging starter while driving over big enough bumps so that got replaced today
 
Turned another year older this weekend so I had the bright idea tackling a big job.

Wanted/needed to pull the engine and trans as the clutch feels like the original factory clutch, oil pan leaks, front and rear main leaks, transmission leaks, OD unit leaks, long gone shifter bushings, I think it's pretending to be a harley so something had to be done as I was losing a significant amount of fluid every month. Figured I would have an easier time just pulling the two as one, just took longer than I expected.

So on this bright and sunny Monday it's time

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Nearly there, finding the last few wires and hoses not yet disconnected as thunder filled the sky.

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Got it but now the rains here, the hard dirt that once let the crane roll has quickly turned to mud even with the tent, time to fight with an engine crane.

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Also while disconnecting all the things I found an anti tamper seal/bolt on the speedometer cable retainer, never seen that before. It has some kind of washer with hooks holding on a red plastic cap so that you couldn't access the bolt. Forgot to snap a pic of the seal, had to break it but saved the pieces.

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Managed to do it without lifting the car or pulling the front clip because I am extremely lazy. Tomorrow I split the engine and transmission and continue the work. Clutch likely needs to be resurfaced but haven't taken a look at it yet, somethings chattering.
 
And we're back at it

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Pushed the car around and worked on getting the engine and transmission back in

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Planned ahead and setup a plywood runway making this 10 times easier than coming out

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Cranking the load leveler and precisely maneuvering this hunk in cause I refuse to remove the front clip

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Load leveler was hitting firewall, managed to switch to a chain and get it the rest of the way in and then got to work connecting everything else, transmission mount, rad, wires and all the little things here and there

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Got everything running but horribly, wouldn't start at first, then wouldn't idle for more than a few seconds, its dumping coolant under the car and I couldn't tell from where at first, starts revving a little bit more and suddenly it starts detonating ****. It was late, closed up and went to bed.

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Got up this morning and immediately found the water leak, massive leak right at the thermostat housing, squeeze the hose and it pukes, pulled the housing off and found a huge chunk corroded that the seal wasn't filling, ran out to the store and found a Felpro 25565 seal, much larger and sealed against much more material and the missing chunk was no longer an issue. Pulled belt off, threw a brand new one on all aligned nicely, dialed in distributor timing and detonation is long gone. Conclusion I was a dumbass in the last 3 months and messed up timing after replacing front main seals.

At the beginning I told myself, "oh yeah I can totally do a clutch, reseal front and rear mains, oil pan and transmission in a week. I actually ended up rebuilding the transmission, updating to 91+ PS pump and a new r134a AC pump, intake gaskets and a few more things, also dragging my feet on getting it back in the car but now we're back on the road, gotta go get tags once again :-P

Up next EFI because it doesn't smell like it's gonna pass emissions but we'll see
 
Aye it passed emissions and ran far better than the last time I got it tested, 39ppm on HC compared to a 199 last year and a 0.12% CO half of last year, emissions no longer a worry. Some noises to locate but it?s nice to finally have it back on the road. I?ll probably get into rear end bushings next rather than EFI, clunky and loose back there, still need to replace rear shocks and new springs all around would be real nice.
 
Bought some motivation

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Still have to prepare everything for a turbo but now I have that and can continue figuring out what the hell I'm doing, slowly but surely we'll get there.
 
Well in the process of dealing with that seized clutch cable months back I glazed a brand new clutch, out the transmission came.

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Looks some heat spots?

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Absolutely no wear on the pressure plate even after sorting TO bearing play

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Well over 1000 miles later

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Idiotically drove the car without full clutch travel, screwed up that clutch. Thought something else may be at play because I could never get it right after sorting out the clutch cable, if you spot something feel free to school me.
 
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Bye bye kjet
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And out it comes
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What's the easiest way to remove the computer harness from under the dash and the firewall? It run's from the passenger footwell over the airbox into the main harness wrapped in electrical tape behind the cluster, not too keen on unwrapping that. I'll be removing the unused wires from the engine harness, just leave the under dash wires?
 
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