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Resealing a J type OD

spock345

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2016
Location
Livermore, CA
The OD on my M41 is leaking enough to make me worried. Is there anything particular that I need to keep in mind while I have it out? I know there is a way that the shaft can bind within the overdrive making it hard to remove (I am just dropping the OD, not the whole gearbox). Any tips on how to relieve that tension? Can I just follow the J type teardown procedure for an M46?
 
Can you tell where it's leaking from? Mine leaked a lot from the rear seal. PM if so, I have a spare to mail you.

It is the gaskets around the iron band in the middle and where it attaches to the gearbox adapter thing. I already replaced the rear seal and speedometer seals to fix two leaks. Still leaking.
 
I have removed mine once for replacement and left the gear box installed. There was no binding during my repairs and once on the bench it was just nuts and bolts nothing special that I can remember. I installed new gaskets and seals on the replacement unit before installation.
 
It is the gaskets around the iron band in the middle and where it attaches to the gearbox adapter thing. I already replaced the rear seal and speedometer seals to fix two leaks. Still leaking.

Are you using the original short shift cover with the long shifter or the long shift cover with the short shifter?
 
The OD on my M41 is leaking enough to make me worried. Is there anything particular that I need to keep in mind while I have it out? I know there is a way that the shaft can bind within the overdrive making it hard to remove (I am just dropping the OD, not the whole gearbox). Any tips on how to relieve that tension? Can I just follow the J type teardown procedure for an M46?

The official procedure for relieving the 'torsional tensions' on the shaft is as follows.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/images/ODRemovalProcedure.jpg
ODRemovalProcedure.jpg


I give the clutch a quick pop with trans in reverse and my foot on the brake.
 
Are you using the original short shift cover with the long shifter or the long shift cover with the short shifter?

I am using a long shifter with this. Might convert it to a short shifter in the future if I desire though.

I just dumped the clutch in reverse yesterday. Will drain and drop it tonight. Got hung up with other stuff over the weekend.
 
Dumping it in reverse worked. The only hang up was the gasket sticking. Thanks everyone.

Got the thing apart last night. Replaced the gaskets around the iron band and replaced the two piston O rings.

Anyone know about a DIY tool to get those plugs out of the sump to do the O rings there?
 
Anyone know about a DIY tool to get those plugs out of the sump to do the O rings there?
Two screws in a length of flat bar stock? For plugs that are not too tight I have used a strong needlenose pliers shoved into the holes. Once I used the extra leverage of a large adjustable wrench clamped around the jaws of the pliers. Not sure how well it would work laying on your back underneath the car, lol.
 
Volvo says yes but it's not really necessary. Depending on how hard the OD engages I will partially depress the clutch to smooth engagement.
 
I made a small tool as described in the haynes manual. Seems to work pretty well.

I've been pressing the clutch in part way when engaging and disengaging. The transition is quite a bit smoother.
 
I let up on the gas, but usually don't use the clutch. AFAIK the OD mechanism has a clutch mechanism used on both engage and disengage.
Laycock_Overdrive_Off_Position.jpg
 
I made a small tool as described in the haynes manual. Seems to work pretty well.

If you're talking about the wire loop to remove the valve seat, check to make sure it didn't raise a burr by inserting the valve that goes into it and making sure it operates smoothly.
 
Side question. Should you push the clutch in to go into OD during normal driving too? I never do...

I always do with my M41s or M46s.
Do I have to? Maybe not, but it makes me feel like it's easier on the gearbox.
 
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