B230 slant mount in 122

Can a B230 be slant mounted in a 122 with an untouched B230 oil pan? I can't seem to find a straight answer. TIA.

Even though mine is upright, I’m going to confidently say yes. The b230 pan is flat with the engine at it’s normal angle, right?

I saw one put in a 1800 years ago at the VSA meet in Saratoga, nice job!

AndrewNance said:

Even though mine is upright, I’m going to confidently say yes. The b230 pan is flat with the engine at it’s normal angle, right?

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No it's bulbous.

If a 122 is anything like an 1800, there is a good chance you will need to make a good "dimple" in the back drivers side portion of the pan.

I put a slanted B23F in my 1800 for mockup with Yoshifab brackets. The pan would contact the back area of the lower control arm, after pulling it out and smacking it with a hammer a number of times, it was good.

pat244ti said:

after pulling it out and smacking it with a hammer a number of times, it was good.

Click to expand...

In the Engineering World, that instruction would occasionally show up on field construction drawings, except it was worded Field to Determine.

Oh I guess I haven’t worked on anything else with a b230 in a while.

I have done this thing, it is unfortunate that I realize it is almost (few months) 10 years ago.
B21A with M47 (wire) in a 1959 Amazon.
Please don't judge too harsh, the car is still not on the road tho it drives fine, I need to redo a lot of the "solutions". I just add the pictures as they appear when I go through the album, sorry if confuse.
I answer with many pictures, words hard, best show.










The oilpan is fine, the flat/thin part rests on the... the, the big beam thing. I forget word.
If you look at the image above you can sort of make out that I have cut and hammered the horizontal "beam" in the firewall, where the orange hose goes behind the head.
This I think was due to how far back the engine sits for the oilpan "bulge" to get far enough toward the rear to clear the big bottom beam-thing.






Engine mounts need some work.






While the engine clears fine on the driver/intake side, the original cast exhaust manifold would not.
It hits the metal "flap" that is some kind of reinforcement of the body at the a-arm mountings (I think).
I ground it down (it is on the driver side for the steering) but ended up making my own manifold which is thinner and tighter against the engine. More pictures, I just add them as they are in order.


I also had to replace the generator due to the originals size.














I also used 240 radiator and expansion jar. The car had no good engine, cooling or electrics (6v).


Since I did M47 also had to mate driveshaft parts together.


12v battery from some citroen c1 (I think, maybe) fits turned right (my opinion) in original battery shelf


Driveshaft wiggle is 2 mm I recall, not good, not terrible. I read somewhere 2mm was max, of course managed to land on that after welding. I have not noticed while driving. Made a "driveshaft cage" in case of **** happens.








I really need to address the gearbox mount to the body.




Despite my efforts with the exhaust manifold, I had to cut the manifold studs/screws a little to clear for mounting.




Airfilter is a small but crucial thing, I must have crankcase vent in closed loop for inspection.
I made another solution later, don't recall why now. This looks fine.




I used the hole where the original ignitioncoil goes for the throttle wire.


I also use wire for clutch (240).




I need to redo the clutch pedal mount.


I also need to do better with the throttle, maybe just a stronger spring on the pedal it self.




And I reeeeally need to redo the shifter, I made it all "screwable" (not like that) and used a shifter from a ng Saab 900... yeah.



Found how the airfilter looks now.


Maybe more than you asked for.

I have also installed a b230 in an Amazon.
Originally a B230 N/A, then a B230FT.
Many of the solutions I came up with are similar to Hilding.
The oil pan needed some massaging with a hammer to clear the
lower control arm.
Mine is slanted at about 10 degrees (not the stock 15 degrees), this allowed me to use the stock intake and exhaust manifolds.
Things are a bit tight with the turbo and A/C. I used shortened 700 series engine mounts.
I have utilized the complete wiring harness from a 240. The CPS is only accessible by removing the heater.
I've driven the car about 20,000 miles since the swap.
I love it!

Photos of N/A engine and the turbo

http://forums.turbobricks.com/album.php?albumid=391&pictureid=3415

complete with booger welds and shenanigans. That picture heavy post made my day

No benchracing in here, nope.