• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Volvo 940 Cosworth T3 Drift car - UK

chopperead

New member
Joined
Feb 21, 2007
Location
Northants,UK
Nothing ground breaking or new going on here its all been done before and theres quite a few threads about it but just thought i would start my own.

I have had my 940 for about 7 years now and for the past 2 years its been parked up doing nothing as I had my twin girls which meant no play time for a while.

I have already done the normal stuff Manual boost control, shocks and springs, stripped interior and bucket seats and a welded rear diff and have had some great experience messing around at some practice drift days,

I had purchased a load of goodies years ago and im finally getting round to fitting it all on.

So im fitting a Cosworth T3 I have a milled manifold to fit it to, Ive got a nice big ebay intercooler to go in, some second hand brown top injectors, im going to sort a full 3 inch exhaust and a 960 AMM. Also going to do dual rear sway bar mod.

So far ive stripped off the old intercooler, turbo and exhaust.

Few pics:

IMG_20140113_215746.jpg


IMG_20140120_134742.jpg


IMG_20140120_212853.jpg


No room for intercooler hoses !!!

IMG_20140120_212929.jpg


I have hacked off some metal to make fitting of the intercooler a little better.

IMG_20140122_221742.jpg



Turbo Oil lines obviously wont fit. It baffled me when i took out the current oil drain line and it was just resting in the engine but this is how it was designed to be held in place by turbo.

IMG_20140125_221010.jpg


I have seen someone on here used this for the oil feed :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130674722015?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648

Definitely cheaper than trying to make one up using Demon Tweeks or other UK motorsport parts companies:

So I may buy this one but unsure if theres a cheaper option people talk about going to local hydraulic shop and getting my current feed chopped with a flexi clamped on the end but I have no idea where to go within the UK and within my local area Northamptonshire to do this so may have to go ebay route.

Also not 100% of what im going to do with with drain line yet. I have read someone cut and rewelded current one and others have cut and JB welded the bottom section and then fitted a hose in betwwen with jubliee clips ( this doesn't sound like a leak free option ), or people have tapped the block then purchased another custom made line, not really keen on tapping the block.

Or do what this guy did, but again not sure best place in UK would be to buy line he had made up :

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=166665&highlight=cossie+t34&page=2

So i will keep the thread updated for anyone that is interested or wants to help me out with tips or guidance.
 
Ok so I may need to replace the studs on the 90+ manifold theres quite a bit of play when i slide on the T3 so it might be better to fit some bigger studs.

Couple of pictures of 13c and the T3

IMG_20140128_215938.jpg


IMG_20140128_215944.jpg
 
Boys, if you ask me I think some kind of brace going up to that stud pointing down would be a smart idea to take some load off the M8 manifold to head studs..
One thing interesting on the YBB and YBGs I've built is getting to see little details on something we know was intended to be high power and hard use and the length of the studs GOING IN to the head was one real surprise. Cosworth drilled and tapped at least 60-75% deeper---for more thread engagement.....so the manifold doesn't pull the threads out when the head is hot (and aluminum strength goes down drastically) and the manifold fall off!

So....having read of people having studs die, maybe some kind of brace...

Oh it turns out the best bracket I've found for the wastegate actuator when doing these turbine housings in a re-clocked way is Volvo B21T...Discovered that when we were stuck when installing one on a freid's XR4ti and he glaced under a bench outside when another fried's dead turbo had lain for 4 years "Oi! Whadda 'bout dis one, eh?"

Worked better than the thing I was fabbing
 
John that stud sticking down on the manifold is for the factory brace for that factory exhaust manifold. It bolts on there and then two spots on the engine block. The brace just isn't in that pic. Some say you don't need that, but I always run it.
 

Attachments

  • 90plus5.jpg
    90plus5.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 927
John that stud sticking down on the manifold is for the factory brace for that factory exhaust manifold. It bolts on there and then two spots on the engine block. The brace just isn't in that pic. Some say you don't need that, but I always run it.

Im sure John V realises this lol !

So I need to sort an Actuator out any recommendations ?????

Collins Performance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collins-P...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257c58d3da

Garrett:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garrett-3...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1a819c35
 
Im sure John V realises this lol !

So I need to sort an Actuator out any recommendations ?????

Collins Performance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collins-P...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257c58d3da

Garrett:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garrett-3...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1a819c35

Yep and its the fact that just like the XR4Ti guys leave them off, it seems most Volvo guys ditch them...just a suggestion to somebody who intends pounding on the car---kinda like I've been doing the M10 upgrade since first one I saw 15 years ago..
 
Im sure John V realises this lol !

So I need to sort an Actuator out any recommendations ?????

Collins Performance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Collins-P...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257c58d3da

Garrett:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garrett-3...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1a819c35

I spent a whole day up at Collins in beautiful downtown Congleton back in 2000 drinking tea, poking at various Cossie and Misterbitchy and Sub-a-rat stuff and it was made clear that unless you want the bling the Cossie -31 or -55 actuator is just fine... later Britains best Cossie tuner out in deepest, darkest Essex splained to me that he was right as what everybody does is buy Garrett actuatore and ut the can and use the spring and diaphragm inside.
The big deal when re-clocking the compressor housing is to get the rod pushing straight so it doesn't bind or tweak the rod out of the actuator..

And note; the spring inside a -31 is 110 pound/in which is about double the Cossie 4x4 actuator. I believe that's why they're stable at high boost. Firm spring under low pre-load rather than a soft spring under a bunch of preload. So the -31 will crack open and HOLD against the exhaust stream--my thoughts anyway after seeing nice steady 2 bar boost not falling off like so many.
 
I received my intercooler hoses so continued sorting that last night.

It fits a treat.

IMG_20140130_202652.jpg


So radiator is using original top and bottom brackets. And all i did was chomp a chunck of metal either side to make room for the inlet/outlet and I will weld a couple of bits of box section to the bottom to support it, as you can see below. Need to sort something to support it at the top although its pretty sandwich in.

IMG_20140130_215706.jpg


Also clocked the T3 but didn't quite line up correctly.

IMG_20140130_215548.jpg


Also noticed my Oil feed is a bit mashed up so I will have to bear in mind when sorting what oil line im going to buy.

IMG_20140130_215612.jpg


Cheers John for the actuator info.
 
Last edited:
A fellow UK Tbricker I didn't know there were any more active on the forum.

Where did you buy your actuator was it a genuine garrett or ebay garrett style ?
 
What have you UK guys done with the 012 3 inch maf I can't find any second hand ones anywhere and only second hand one I've found is a non Bosch one.
 
Back
Top