240 Need help with some sort of electrical issue please

Elvolvito · 11-05-2021, 06:04 PM

Alright, so my ‘88 244 is having an electrical issue I believe. About a month ago, the alt belts started squealing as well as all the lights in the car occasionally dimming. This problem persisted for about 2 weeks till I took it to the local euro mechanic in my area & he let me know that my alternator was overcharging, & he recommended getting a new alt & installing a new battery as well since all that overcharging fried up my battery. Fast forward to now, I’ve installed a brand new alt, as well as a new battery & it’s been riding completely solid for about a week. However, the belts started shrieking again just now & the powers giving signs of going dim again. Now I have a very good suspect in mind for what’s causing this. Before all of this ever started occurring, I had just installed 2 new front speakers in the car. (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer...?skuId=6065206). I never really did any research on speakers for my Volvo before purchasing them & I believe that they may be sucking too much juice out of my alternator & that’s causing it to overcharge? What do you guys think? I even just uninstalled them off the wires & the car actually does seem to be doing better. I just want to be sure that it’s the speakers. Thank you.

philski o'flood · 11-05-2021, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvolvito

I believe that they may be sucking too much juice out of my alternator & that’s causing it to overcharge? What do you guys think?.

highly unlikely

2 old for this · 11-05-2021, 07:41 PM

Why not check the belt tension?

Radtap · 11-05-2021, 09:25 PM

All the lights in my ‘80 flutter and I have no sound system, it’s just a weak charging system or bad grounds. You can try swapping bulbs for LEDs and lower your draw on the alt if you don’t want to install a higher amp alt.

Radtap · 11-05-2021, 09:32 PM

I am constantly chasing electrical issues in my car and so far 99% of the time it’s just been a bad ground or corroded/dirty connection. Just slowly making my way through all the connectors in the car and either cleaning or replacing

c1800 · 11-05-2021, 10:02 PM

Check all the pulleys to ensure they are in alignment. Alternator mountings can get bent/out of alignment, as well as other things.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 10:04 AM

My belts & pulleys are good according to the mechanic & myself after a thorough inspection. Okay the issue seems to be coming from the small D+ terminal on the alt. Another thing I’ve noticed is that the battery light (alt light) on the dash doesn’t flash whenever I go to turn on the car & whenever I flick the key to the first position.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 10:10 AM

It’s a refurbished Remy 80 amp alternator

dl242gt · 11-06-2021, 01:10 PM

If the charging system has a bad charging light circuit. You can get weird flashing and dimming of the lights. Especially the cluster. Time to troubleshoot the charge light circuit. Start by grounding the charge light wire to the alternator case. Turn on the key. You should have the dash light on. If not on use another ground like the valve cover. If it's still not on you need to test the wiring or replace a bad bulb. If the light comes on with another ground. You need to repair the ground wire for the alternator case.

bobxyz · 11-06-2021, 01:48 PM

It highly unlikely that a new radio could have caused battery/alternator problems, especially if the new radio is fused correctly. I'd be searching for a damaged +12volt/+Alt wire that's starting to short to ground. The alternator + wire wraps around the front of the block, by the crank pulley, then to the started. It can suffer from age/heat/oil/road debris damage.

Get a $10 cigarette lighter voltage gauge (amazon: usb car charger volt meter) to monitor voltage while driving. If you want to fast charge your phone, get the fancier $15 iphone rated version. On an old Volvo, voltage should be ~13.5 to ~14volts, and maybe a bit less when hot. On more modern cars, maybe ~14.5v. 12ish volts, or lower, means you're draining the battery and will eventually have problems starting.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 02:19 PM

So I just did a voltage test on the battery on the battery, it’s 12.30 with the car off & it drops down to around 12.00 when I start the car, meaning the alternator isn’t charging the battery whatsoever.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 02:21 PM

What recommendations do you have from this point? Check all my grounds? Test the alternator?

dl242gt · 11-06-2021, 03:59 PM

I did just suggest to test the charge light circuit. Your alternator won't charge without it working. Unless you rev the engine to around 4k rpms. Then it might self excite.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

I did just suggest to test the charge light circuit. Your alternator won't charge without it working. Unless you rev the engine to around 4k rpms. Then it might self excite.

Just did the test you suggested & the dash light didn’t turn on whatsoever.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 04:34 PM

I also performed a continuity test on the alt & every single + is giving out current.

dl242gt · 11-06-2021, 09:26 PM

So you either have wiring issues typically where the wires pass through the alternator bracket and under the crankshaft pulley or the bulb in the dash is bad.

Elvolvito · 11-06-2021, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dl242gt

So you either have wiring issues typically where the wires pass through the alternator bracket and under the crankshaft pulley or the bulb in the dash is bad.

So if the bulb isn’t working, then the alt won’t charge?

dl242gt · 11-07-2021, 04:56 PM

That is correct. Without the exciter circuit aka charging light. The alternator won't charge. The Bosch alternator can self excite if you rev them high enough but you can't count on that working every time.

2 old for this · 11-07-2021, 08:40 PM

Quick test for the system- turn key on light should come on.start engine light should go out. No glowing or flicking.turn key off light should come on as engine is stopping. System must pass all three test or you might be walking.

johfraser · 11-08-2021, 06:57 PM

Definitely fix/test the charging light circuit. Verify the alternator case is grounded to the chassis and engine block.
If you really want to know how much current you are drawing from the alternator use a clamp on ammeter. The more current you draw from the alternator the more torque it takes to turn it. You don't get that energy for free.

lummert · 11-09-2021, 07:06 PM

Take a look at the crankshaft pulley. Is the outer ring slipping?

Elvolvito · 11-16-2021, 01:50 PM

Well gentlemen, mechanic said it’s just my alt. He even tried replacing the regulator & still nothing.

Elvolvito · 11-16-2021, 01:51 PM

Also, I forgot to mention that I took apart the dash & replaced the alt bulb & that didn’t do anything as well.

rearwheelpeel · 11-16-2021, 07:42 PM

I recently changed my engine wiring harness to a brand new one from Dave Barton. I have a digital voltage meter in my car that was previously registering between 13-14 volts and it was very irregular, constantly changing. With the new harness installed I’m at a solid 14.5 volts at idle with the lights off. Lights turned on it drops to 14.2-14.3. My alternator is the original 60 amp that came with the car and my battery is from a customer that insisted on a brand new one so I took hers…. If your electrical problem persists I would definitely check your wiring like others have mentioned.

Elvolvito · 11-16-2021, 09:57 PM

Update: swapped to my old overcharging alternator to see if the alt light would come up on the dash & it did. Proves it was just that ****ty remanufactured Remy alt was defective.

11-05-2021, 06:04 PM	#1
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	Need help with some sort of electrical issue please Alright, so my ‘88 244 is having an electrical issue I believe. About a month ago, the alt belts started squealing as well as all the lights in the car occasionally dimming. This problem persisted for about 2 weeks till I took it to the local euro mechanic in my area & he let me know that my alternator was overcharging, & he recommended getting a new alt & installing a new battery as well since all that overcharging fried up my battery. Fast forward to now, I’ve installed a brand new alt, as well as a new battery & it’s been riding completely solid for about a week. However, the belts started shrieking again just now & the powers giving signs of going dim again. Now I have a very good suspect in mind for what’s causing this. Before all of this ever started occurring, I had just installed 2 new front speakers in the car. (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/pioneer...?skuId=6065206). I never really did any research on speakers for my Volvo before purchasing them & I believe that they may be sucking too much juice out of my alternator & that’s causing it to overcharge? What do you guys think? I even just uninstalled them off the wires & the car actually does seem to be doing better. I just want to be sure that it’s the speakers. Thank you. __________________ El Volvito

11-06-2021, 01:10 PM	#9
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	If the charging system has a bad charging light circuit. You can get weird flashing and dimming of the lights. Especially the cluster. Time to troubleshoot the charge light circuit. Start by grounding the charge light wire to the alternator case. Turn on the key. You should have the dash light on. If not on use another ground like the valve cover. If it's still not on you need to test the wiring or replace a bad bulb. If the light comes on with another ground. You need to repair the ground wire for the alternator case. __________________ Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 338k miles. MVP coilovers and 3" exhaust. Flowed 405 with a V15. Cossie turbine housing with upgraded compressor housing. 90+, IPD remote oil filter. Some other goodness, too. Been lots of fun over 25 years. Restored in 2k. Now ready for a 2nd restoration. 1993 245 Classic, 440k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.

11-09-2021, 07:06 PM	#21
lummert Board Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Portland IN	Take a look at the crankshaft pulley. Is the outer ring slipping? __________________ Trying to understand stupid people is like trying to pick up a turd by the clean end.

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11-05-2021, 07:41 PM	#3
2 old for this Board Member Join Date: Mar 2018	Why not check the belt tension?

11-05-2021, 09:25 PM	#4
Radtap Board Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Sweat zone, Arizona	All the lights in my ‘80 flutter and I have no sound system, it’s just a weak charging system or bad grounds. You can try swapping bulbs for LEDs and lower your draw on the alt if you don’t want to install a higher amp alt.

11-05-2021, 09:32 PM	#5
Radtap Board Member Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Sweat zone, Arizona	I am constantly chasing electrical issues in my car and so far 99% of the time it’s just been a bad ground or corroded/dirty connection. Just slowly making my way through all the connectors in the car and either cleaning or replacing

11-05-2021, 10:02 PM	#6
c1800 Board Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: A small village of one.	Check all the pulleys to ensure they are in alignment. Alternator mountings can get bent/out of alignment, as well as other things.

11-06-2021, 10:04 AM	#7
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	My belts & pulleys are good according to the mechanic & myself after a thorough inspection. Okay the issue seems to be coming from the small D+ terminal on the alt. Another thing I’ve noticed is that the battery light (alt light) on the dash doesn’t flash whenever I go to turn on the car & whenever I flick the key to the first position.

11-06-2021, 10:10 AM	#8
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	It’s a refurbished Remy 80 amp alternator

11-06-2021, 01:48 PM	#10
bobxyz Board Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Boulder CO	It highly unlikely that a new radio could have caused battery/alternator problems, especially if the new radio is fused correctly. I'd be searching for a damaged +12volt/+Alt wire that's starting to short to ground. The alternator + wire wraps around the front of the block, by the crank pulley, then to the started. It can suffer from age/heat/oil/road debris damage. Get a $10 cigarette lighter voltage gauge (amazon: usb car charger volt meter) to monitor voltage while driving. If you want to fast charge your phone, get the fancier $15 iphone rated version. On an old Volvo, voltage should be ~13.5 to ~14volts, and maybe a bit less when hot. On more modern cars, maybe ~14.5v. 12ish volts, or lower, means you're draining the battery and will eventually have problems starting.

11-06-2021, 02:19 PM	#11
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	So I just did a voltage test on the battery on the battery, it’s 12.30 with the car off & it drops down to around 12.00 when I start the car, meaning the alternator isn’t charging the battery whatsoever.

11-06-2021, 02:21 PM	#12
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	What recommendations do you have from this point? Check all my grounds? Test the alternator?

11-06-2021, 03:59 PM	#13
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	I did just suggest to test the charge light circuit. Your alternator won't charge without it working. Unless you rev the engine to around 4k rpms. Then it might self excite.

11-06-2021, 04:34 PM	#15
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	I also performed a continuity test on the alt & every single + is giving out current.

11-06-2021, 09:26 PM	#16
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	So you either have wiring issues typically where the wires pass through the alternator bracket and under the crankshaft pulley or the bulb in the dash is bad.

11-07-2021, 04:56 PM	#18
dl242gt Old and boxy but good. Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.	That is correct. Without the exciter circuit aka charging light. The alternator won't charge. The Bosch alternator can self excite if you rev them high enough but you can't count on that working every time.

11-07-2021, 08:40 PM	#19
2 old for this Board Member Join Date: Mar 2018	Quick test for the system- turn key on light should come on.start engine light should go out. No glowing or flicking.turn key off light should come on as engine is stopping. System must pass all three test or you might be walking.

11-08-2021, 06:57 PM	#20
johfraser Board Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: San Francisco	Definitely fix/test the charging light circuit. Verify the alternator case is grounded to the chassis and engine block. If you really want to know how much current you are drawing from the alternator use a clamp on ammeter. The more current you draw from the alternator the more torque it takes to turn it. You don't get that energy for free.

11-16-2021, 01:50 PM	#22
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	Well gentlemen, mechanic said it’s just my alt. He even tried replacing the regulator & still nothing.

11-16-2021, 01:51 PM	#23
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	Also, I forgot to mention that I took apart the dash & replaced the alt bulb & that didn’t do anything as well.

11-16-2021, 07:42 PM	#24
rearwheelpeel Slow Learner Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Rochester NY	I recently changed my engine wiring harness to a brand new one from Dave Barton. I have a digital voltage meter in my car that was previously registering between 13-14 volts and it was very irregular, constantly changing. With the new harness installed I’m at a solid 14.5 volts at idle with the lights off. Lights turned on it drops to 14.2-14.3. My alternator is the original 60 amp that came with the car and my battery is from a customer that insisted on a brand new one so I took hers…. If your electrical problem persists I would definitely check your wiring like others have mentioned.

11-16-2021, 09:57 PM	#25
Elvolvito Board Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Florida	Update: swapped to my old overcharging alternator to see if the alt light would come up on the dash & it did. Proves it was just that ****ty remanufactured Remy alt was defective.