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My perception of a daily driver was too messed up!

Jerd said:
wut...

How the **** does that work?
Click to expand...

LH 2.2 distributors have hall sensors in them with a 4 vane wheel. All you'd literally have to do is install it in place of your 2.4 distributor, supply it with 12 volts and wire the ground and sensor out to your crank trigger input.

Change the jumper on your 3.57 board to hall input, change to basic trigger in your MS software settings, and carry on with life.

If the trigger is the only thing holding you up and you're sticking with distributor, why make life hard on yourself? Put your baller flywheel in and change the distributor. Problem solved.

Edit: Holy crap, I just missed all of page 159
 
gross polluter said:
LH 2.2 distributors have hall sensors in them with a 4 vane wheel. All you'd literally have to do is install it in place of your 2.4 distributor, supply it with 12 volts and wire the ground and sensor out to your crank trigger input.

Change the jumper on your 3.57 board to hall input, change to basic trigger in your MS software settings, and carry on with life.

If the trigger is the only thing holding you up and you're sticking with distributor, why make life hard on yourself? Put your baller flywheel in and change the distributor. Problem solved.

Edit: Holy crap, I just missed all of page 159
Click to expand...


Hahah ****

Thank you so much for bringing this up. Its so simple im sure most people thought i knew. I had no idea lol.

I might run out and grab a dizzy this weekend. Damn i bought some really nice shielded wire you recommended for my cps, its to short to reach the distributor for sure.
 
Jerd said:
Damn i bought some really nice shielded wire you recommended for my cps, its to short to reach the distributor for sure.
Click to expand...

That shouldn't be a problem. Hall sensors aren't as susceptible to electrical noise as VR sensors are. You're less likely to run into problems with non shielded wire on Hall effect sensors. Running regular wire from the hall sensor to where your shielded wire currently terminates should be sufficient.
 
gross polluter said:
That shouldn't be a problem. Hall sensors aren't as susceptible to electrical noise as VR sensors are. You're less likely to run into problems with non shielded wire on Hall effect sensors. Running regular wire from the hall sensor to where your shielded wire currently terminates should be sufficient.
Click to expand...

Oh, okay sweet. Thanks again nick, its nice to have the help of someone who knows their ****.
 
I woke up to sun shining through my blinds! I quickly ran to harbor freight to get a jack, realizing they are $90 i decided i would rather spend that on having the saab bolt circle added to johns failwheel. So i thought it would be worth swinging by this guys shop near my work. His names mike and he has his own personal little shop where he builds hot rods. He happen to be there so i pulled up and he let me barrow a jack and 2 jackstands. I raced home and got my car up in the air.

The feedline from the top of the fuel tank to the fuel filter looked terrible it was all cracked and falling apart. the filter probably clogged with that crap was worthless so i ripped that out too. Thankfully i had plently of hose to run from the rail all the way to the top of the tank. The -6 hose does not fit the "barb" on top of the fuel tank. So ill have to come up with some sort of adapter for -6 to 1/2" then i can just use a short piece of 1/2" to go on the tank fitting. I tore the old fuel line and ran the new fuel line using these things:
images

And the screws that area already there for the return line holders worked great.

It was a little awkward having the ass end of my car up in the air, laying under your car in an apartment complex. People walking their dogs and suck giving me funny looks. One guy actually asked me how it was going. Hes like oh that sounds complicated, shouldn't you have a shop do it? He mentioned something like, "make sure the cars not going to fall on you", etc..


Anyways so i now that i dont have a fuel filter any more im thinking about getting one of these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-650133/overview/
Seems really small, does it need frequent cleaning?
 
Last edited:
Jerd said:
Anyways so i now that i dont have a fuel filter any more im thinking about getting one of these.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-650133/overview/
Seems really small, does it need frequent cleaning?
Click to expand...

NNNNOOOOOOO!!!!

I'm on my phone at the moment, so I can't post links. Go look at my Facebook and check my recent mobile upload pics. Had one of these on a customer car and the thing clogs every tank of gas. Filter media is only 1sqin surface area. Eventually it lead to pump failure from overheating due to lack of fuel flow through the pump. Just get an AN-6 to 12x1.5 adapter and a AN-6 to 14x1.5 adapter and use a stock 240 fuel filter. I'm using that at 600whp on E85 and tons of surface area. Cost ends up around the same for that junk Russell filter.
 
gross polluter said:
NNNNOOOOOOO!!!!

I'm on my phone at the moment, so I can't post links. Go look at my Facebook and check my recent mobile upload pics. Had one of these on a customer car and the thing clogs every tank of gas. Filter media is only 1sqin surface area. Eventually it lead to pump failure from overheating due to lack of fuel flow through the pump. Just get an AN-6 to 12x1.5 adapter and a AN-6 to 14x1.5 adapter and use a stock 240 fuel filter. I'm using that at 600whp on E85 and tons of surface area. Cost ends up around the same for that junk Russell filter.
Click to expand...

the top of the tank needs bigger than -6 hose i think...

But i can adapt from 14x1.5 to -8 and use a -8 to 1/2" hose barb to some 1/2" hose to clamp on the tank fitting. How do other people attach to that tank barb?
 
I just welded a -6 to the barb and run -6 straight from the tank. You get the idea though so I'm sure you'll get it worked out.
 
Just ordered the adapters to splice in the stock fuel filter to a 1/2" hose barb. The attachment on the tank is 1/2" so i just need to get some 1/2" hose and clamps to finish the feedline off. For the return im adapting from 3/8" orb to 1/4" hose barb. Some 1/4" hose is all thats needed to run from the fpr back down to the oe hard return line.

Any suggestions for local parts stores that would carry 1/2" and 1/4" fuel injection hose sold by the foot?
 
Baxters carries it as well by the foot.

If that doesn't work. Oil filter sales, fluid connector products each will stock it I'm guessing.

Sean
 
Baxters carries it as well by the foot.

If that doesn't work. Oil filter sales, fluid connector products each will stock it I'm guessing.

Sean
 
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