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Old 04-13-2007, 05:32 PM   #1
Robustus
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Default Stuck front brake rotors - '92 245

I've done 240 brakes several times, and had some pretty tough to remove rotors before, but right now, I've got a car with two front rotors I can't remove. Yes, I removed the 10mm bolts in the rotor, etc...

I've wiggled them, pounded all around with a mallet and a hammer, and pounded (with a rubber mallet) the inside face of the rotor where the caliper used to be while turning the rotor...

Any other tricks?
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:41 PM   #2
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Is it the same setup as the 80's 240? Dust cap, cotter pin, center nut. Remove the calipers, pull the rotor off -- front bearings fall out, rear bearings come out next?

You might put the wheel back on for some added leverage.

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Old 04-13-2007, 05:44 PM   #3
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Yeah, I think it's the same...
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:50 PM   #4
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Default hit it a little harder...

what i do, is use a plastic dead blow hammer, and knock the s*** out of the front side of the rotor... i mean, hit it hard. some people dont like that way, but it always seems to work. hit the front, though, and you can hit it much harder. usually only takes 2-3 whacks, and its loose.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robustus View Post
Yeah, I think it's the same...
is that not a two piece? if not, then my bad... i was thinking the late models had slip on rotors...
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:12 PM   #6
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Ok, I got it. I'd been whacking away as hard as I could with my rubber mallet... But I'm not a very big guy, so... I shoved a 2x4 in from the other side of the car up against the inside face of the rotor and whacked the far end of the 2x4 with a sledge. Then 1/4 turn the rotor, another whack, 1/4 turn, whack, etc... After about a dozen hits it was freed.

Freakin' Northern cars...
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Old 04-13-2007, 06:18 PM   #7
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Default two piece...

so it was a two piece. i thought so, wasnt positive. good deal.
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Old 04-13-2007, 08:22 PM   #8
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Default stuck rotors

To help prevent that from happening again. A very thin layer of anti seize on the hub face that the rotor slips over will make it much easier the next time. If you keep your 240 for awhile there will be a next time.
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Old 04-14-2007, 05:36 AM   #9
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Thanks, dl, good idea...
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Old 05-23-2021, 04:59 PM   #10
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Default Rotor not stuck but won't come off all the way.

1986 240 front brakes. The two rotors are loose and have about an inch of movement but they won't come off all the way. Is there just gunk buildup and I need to keep fiddling with it longer or is something else in the way?
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Old 05-23-2021, 06:40 PM   #11
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Often the hub's "snout" will develop a ring of rust between where the rotor is, and the wheel was, and will keep a tight-fitting rotor from coming off. Put the rotor all the way back on, then get in there with sandpaper and/or a wire brush.
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:32 PM   #12
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Sorry for my noobness, but what exactly do you mean? Shouldn't I pull off the rotor as far it will go then reach behind and inside the rotor and try to sand it down on the hub? If the rotor is all the way on how do I sand the hub where it sits?
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Old 05-24-2021, 07:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavePolyakov View Post
Sorry for my noobness, but what exactly do you mean? Shouldn't I pull off the rotor as far it will go then reach behind and inside the rotor and try to sand it down on the hub? If the rotor is all the way on how do I sand the hub where it sits?
I assumed it was a rusty ring on the SNOUT of the hub that was jamming the rotor on the way off, since that's usually what I get in the shop. For that, sandpaper or a brush from the outside works best.

I totally forgot "about an inch of movement" which (with your deep-dish rotors) would point more towards a buildup of rust on the inside surface of the rotor's "hat".

For that, you could just keep bashing away until the rust eventually gets chiseled off, or put the rotor all the way back on, and try sandpaper from the back side (if there's access... the dust shield may get in the way).

If it's impossible to get to, do what the second post above suggests... undo the big nut and take off the rotor and hub as a unit, then work on it off the car.

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Old 05-25-2021, 11:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
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I totally forgot "about an inch of movement" which (with your deep-dish rotors) [/IMG]
What a PITA! I spent over an hour yesterday removing the passenger side rotor. I sanded as best I could and used penetrating lube, but it took so much wiggling and prying. Even with a hammer, it was barely budging. I totally f'd up my dust shield but I can probably bend it back into place. My wrist doesn't feel good this morning. It was the rust inside the rotor.
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Old 05-29-2021, 01:49 PM   #15
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I use my 3lb sledge directly on the rotor itself. After all you aren't using them again. Usually forces them to pop off with a few good wacks. I think with the brine they use these issues will get worse since the brine can creep into crevices.
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Old 05-30-2021, 12:12 AM   #16
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I've taken the hub and rotor off, put it on the bench and used a die grinder to get rid of the rust, Repacked the wheel brgs also.
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dl242gt View Post
To help prevent that from happening again. A very thin layer of anti seize on the hub face that the rotor slips over will make it much easier the next time. If you keep your 240 for awhile there will be a next time.
Use synthetic brake grease here, antiseize will smoke when it gets too hot.
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Old 05-31-2021, 01:26 PM   #18
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Try a 7lb deadblow hammer and a full body swing with the car on a hoist.
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Use synthetic brake grease here, antiseize will smoke when it gets too hot.
Not the Wurth copper based anti seize. That stuff is fantastic.
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