home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-18-2019, 11:56 PM   #1
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default 92 240 Wagon Possible Demise

92 240 N/A noticed last year dripping of oil. Double checked everything and discovered rear main seal was leaking. The leaked dripped here and there but I thought I had more time.

Anyway, today on the highway the seal finally gave. As I was driving about 70mph the head began to chatter, as I let off the gas the noise lessened. At this point i decerlated and the clacking etc got worse. The temp gauge started shooting up as I pulled over and cut the car off. It smoked heavily inside once turned off when I removed the oil cap.

I noticed oil was thrown around the transmission and rear of engine so its obvious the rear main went. I don't believe I heard noise from the the block, just the head really.

Do you guys think its completely over for this engine or am I OK??

Thanks

Last edited by xDread92x; 08-19-2019 at 08:44 AM..
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 12:10 AM   #2
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default

Time for an engine.
__________________
Raise The Lowered


Image hosted by servimg.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna sprout?


Redwood Chair is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 12:53 AM   #3
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

Could the block be okay and the head be done for??

How can I test? Add oil and turn by hand to hear result?

Last edited by xDread92x; 08-19-2019 at 11:19 AM..
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:27 AM   #4
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

https://streamable.com/q8gd1

Here is the video. The sound seems like its coming from the head. I have dealt with piston slaps etc and they sound much deeper. The noise also increases under acceleration which would make sense coming from the head and moving of valves etc.

It seems like the block could be saved and head replaced. This video was with 5 quarts of oil put in.

Thoughts?
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:29 AM   #5
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

Was the oil light on? Sounds like the engine went dry, it's exceedingly likely that it's 90% done. It hasn't thrown a rod yet, but you probably put some grievous damage into it.
__________________
'63 PV Rat Rod
'93 245 16VT Classic #1141
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:31 AM   #6
white855T
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Dallas,TX
Default

Just source a long block and swap that in. The block is done, maybe the head is still usable but without disassembling head, who knows. This will allow you to do all seals and gasket and then you never have to worry about leaks again.
white855T is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 12:10 PM   #7
Redwood Chair
K-jet For Life
 
Redwood Chair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: - Stock PSI Or Bust -
Default

Sell it to one of the V8 swap clowns that think they want a car with a dead engine.
Redwood Chair is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 12:27 PM   #8
cleanflametrap
Board Member
 
cleanflametrap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: near baltimore
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
9...

I noticed oil was thrown around the transmission and rear of engine so its obvious the rear main went. I don't believe I heard noise from the the block, just the head really.

...
Blowby popped the rear cam plug?
__________________
-Art
cleanflametrap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 12:50 PM   #9
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

Rear main seal went.

It didnt run long on low oil. I really feel the head is whats damaged.

I had a b230f that seized before and unseized it and it still ran with a piston slap. It ran much longer on no oil at all vs low oil with my wagon now
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 01:32 PM   #10
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

Compression test results coming soon
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 01:40 PM   #11
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

Drain the oil and see if it looks sparkly.

At this point, there's not much of a risk in putting oil in it and just running it until it dies. Be that 10 miles, 1000 miles, 1000000 miles. Other than losing the effort you're putting into pulling the trans to swap the RMS.
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 01:42 PM   #12
John242Ti
LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
 
John242Ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Duvall, WA
Default

Find a 1993-95 940 with a regina FI B230F in it. Pull engine. Remove the regina stuff, wiring harness, and the accessory brackets. Install the LH 2.4 (or 3.1) FI parts, 240 wiring harness, and accessories with brackets. Replace metal cap on rear of head with cam plug and iPd plug retainer. Change all oil seals. Install transmission, drop into car.

-J
__________________

1982 242Ti - black, M46. 1985 245Ti - blue, M46 - soon to be for sale.

@john242ti on IG
John242Ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 02:47 PM   #13
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

OK ALL....

Compression Results from last year (8/2018)

Cylinder 1: 125
Cylinder 2: 130
Cylinder 3: 130
Cylinder 4: 130

Compression Results (8/2019)

Cylinder 1: 120
Cylinder 2: 115
Cylinder 3: 125
Cylinder 4: 130

I wonder if the lower compression is from the head issue on those cylinders. IIRC piston and rod (block issues) should bring numbers as low as 60-70 and possibly lower.

Thoughts?
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 02:49 PM   #14
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

Rod issues won't really affect compression unless *ahem* the rod has thrown itself out of the block.

And the sort of things a head would do when run without oil (gall cam bearings, scuff cam lobes, scuff lifter bucket shims) wouldn't really lower compression either.

I guess scuffed pistons and worn rings could do it, but generally speaking, when the oil goes dry, the rod bearings (being subject to a great deal of centrifugal force flinging the last of the oil out) go dry first, and either lock up the motor, or if the motor is spinning fast enough, break and fling metal everywhere.
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 02:57 PM   #15
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

I'd just go ahead and pull the valve cover off and look at the cam bearings and lobes/lifters.

If they look OK, and there's nothing shiny in the oil you drain out, then cross your fingers, fill with oil again, and keep on rocking in the free world.
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 03:00 PM   #16
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

Well the head will obviously continue to make noise but if I could just put the spare head on that I have, I may find the block has life left for however many miles.

Worst case I put the spare head on and then I discover there was noise from the block or block is shot, car may overheat, etc going for a while. I just dont know

CAN ANYONE GIVE ANY INSIGHT ON COMPRESSION TEST DIFFERENCES. IS 10-15 A BIG DIFFERENCE IN CHANGE?

Last edited by xDread92x; 08-19-2019 at 03:07 PM..
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 06:35 PM   #17
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

I guess another engine it will be
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 10:32 PM   #18
swedefiend
...
 
swedefiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Default

Just so you know...

It is highly improbable that the noise you heard came from the head. It is more likely that you heard a rod knock.

Fill it back full of oil and drive it. If it makes a noise like "clack clack clack ... " in second and third when you accelerate, then it is toast (rod bearing failure leading to excessive rod to crank clearances - i.e. time for a shortblock).
swedefiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:12 PM   #19
philski o'flood
Board Member
 
philski o'flood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Default

that don't sound good
philski o'flood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:20 PM   #20
Jake_NZ
Board Member
 
Jake_NZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Default

Turn the radio up and you wont hear the clack clack clack
__________________
'80 Volvo 242 GT / '83 Volvo 244 GLT / '87 Volvo 760 / '88 Volvo 245 Propcar / '89 Volvo 245 Propcar / '89 Volvo 245 GLT / '95 Volvo T5R / '04 Volvo S40 2.4i
Jake_NZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2019, 11:31 PM   #21
xDread92x
Board Member
 
xDread92x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC
Default

Thanks. I guess its really over...how will I go on
xDread92x is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 12:33 AM   #22
philski o'flood
Board Member
 
philski o'flood's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xDread92x View Post
Thanks. I guess its really over...how will I go on
It ain't over 'til it's over... and that's the bitter end. So before you blow a hole in the block, take it apart and see whats what... used rod or rods and new bearings, used crank and new bearings, used pistons and new rings. Don't Give Up You can Do it!

philski o'flood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 12:41 AM   #23
swedefiend
...
 
swedefiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Default

To be honest though - if it needs the crank turned or the rod ends reground; then it really needs a full rebuild or a "known good" shortblock.

Because once you pop the pistons out to regrind the rod ends, then you are looking at checking the bore, ordering new rings (hopefully not new pistons - if the bore is salvageable) turning the crank, new wrist pin bushings, etc... etc... etc$$$

Edit:// although, I think you should do it. Don't crush it.
swedefiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 12:49 AM   #24
iHateVolvoPeople
Board Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Midwest
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John242Ti View Post
Find a 1993-95 940 with a regina FI B230F in it. Pull engine. Remove the regina stuff, wiring harness, and the accessory brackets. Install the LH 2.4 (or 3.1) FI parts, 240 wiring harness, and accessories with brackets. Replace metal cap on rear of head with cam plug and iPd plug retainer. Change all oil seals. Install transmission, drop into car.

-J
Just curious, why so specific on the engine choice? Any b230 will work just fine for OP.
__________________
Feedback Thread
White liberals are the scum of the earth.
iHateVolvoPeople is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2019, 08:40 AM   #25
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

I'm guessing because it's a nice late model round-toothed squirter blocked motor with a block mounted distributor. So no need to pull it apart even a little to put an intermediate shaft in it.

And again:
1) Pull the valve cover off and see what the cam bearings and lobes look like. Unbolt one or two of the caps, no need to take them all off. Just see if they're galled up from a lack of oil. This will take about 15 - 20 minutes. If it all looks good that's promising.
2) Drain the remaining oil out of the pan and see if it looks shiny. If there are shiny specks of metal in it, that's very bad. This also takes a very trivial amount of time.

If there's nothing shiny in the oil and the valvetrain still looks good? Might as well give it a go. I really don't think you're going to see the results of your oil deprivation in a compression test. The things that will ruin themselves *very* quickly in the absence of oil won't really affect compression.

And you never said if the oil light was on or not, and if it was, how long you drove with it on.
JohnMc is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:31 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.