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Old 02-23-2019, 07:58 AM   #1
j.haded
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Default no crank after engine swap

hey guys, so I'm wrapping up my engine swap, i put a b230ft from a 91 940 se into a 93 n/a 240. when I put the key to ignition there is no crank, all the dash lights light up. I did do the block mount distributor swap, put in a brand new crank position sensor, the motor was never removed from the transmission, I swapped the injectors to the right resistance, swapped both the ignition and fuel ecu from the 940, I verified via the 240 via that it had lh 2.4 along with the 940. I was looking for ideas of what would keep the engine from cranking over?
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Old 02-23-2019, 10:48 AM   #2
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Do you have switched 12v at the starter?
If not, where is the last place,after the ignition switch, that voltage is present?
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:49 AM   #3
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I'll assume that you re-used the 240 engine wiring harness, correct?

What does the engine harness to cabin connector look like? It should be either a skinny long white connector, 2x12 pins, or a rectangular white connector, 3x4 pins, and will be near the ECU/EZK connectors.

The starter wire comes from the ignition switch, through the automatic transmission shifter Park/Neutral interlock switch to the starter. For manual, the P/N interlock has a jumper instead. If you have the skinny long white connector, the starter wire goes through it and on to the starter. If you have the rectangular white connector, then I think the starter wire goes instead through a big gray 2x4 pin connector in the middle of the bulkhead.

Note: if you're using the turbo ECU, then the WOT switch wire on the throttle body needs to be cut (it's used in NA wiring harnesses but causes problems for turbo).
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Last edited by bobxyz; 02-23-2019 at 12:14 PM.. Reason: 93 connector confusion
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:32 PM   #4
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You mean the engine cranks over with the starter motor, yet, doesn't start and run, correct?
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Old 02-23-2019, 03:40 PM   #5
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Test lamp- illuminate when key is turned to crank? Test at the thin signal wire to the starter.

Did you put it on the correct starter terminal?
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Old 02-23-2019, 11:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Test lamp- illuminate when key is turned to crank? Test at the thin signal wire to the starter.

Did you put it on the correct starter terminal?
Goes on the one marked 30 or is it 54?
A certain somebody just did that on a certain 240 out in my garage...much swearing ensued till somebody pointed that out to the other guy...
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Last edited by John V, outside agitator; 02-24-2019 at 10:29 PM..
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Old 02-24-2019, 02:57 AM   #7
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crank means the motor spins, if the starter doesn't engage and spin the motor, "the motor doesn't crank"

check the two small wires to the starter aren't reversed.
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Old 02-24-2019, 04:11 AM   #8
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crank means the motor spins, if the starter doesn't engage and spin the motor, "the motor doesn't crank"

check the two small wires to the starter aren't reversed.
There aren’t 2 small wires at the starter. That was on earlier 240s. There is nothing there to reverse.
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Old 02-24-2019, 05:05 PM   #9
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If you look at the starter as mounted on the engine. The yellow/blue wire goes to the inner terminal on the solenoid. If you still don't crank I would trace out the wire from the ignition switch through the interior till it comes out to the starter. Test that the wire gets power to crank the starter with a test light.
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:17 PM   #10
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It goes to the outer terminal. The inner terminal is/was for the coil wire to give it a full 12+ volts for starting. The later mini starter solenoids don't even have an inner terminal. 1 terminal only. That's why the OP can't get it mixed up. There is only one wire, the blue/yellow wire and one terminal on a 1993 240.
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Old 02-24-2019, 06:17 PM   #11
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There's a remote starter contact at the firewall. You can check to see if power is getting to the starter wire from the ignition switch as well as activate the starter from this contact.



Be sure the car is in neutral if it has a manual transmission before applying power to the contact. The correct terminal is the one circled in green.



The other terminal is used to bypass the ballast resistor to the coil while starting which was only used on cars with breakerless ignition.

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Old 02-24-2019, 06:21 PM   #12
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^^ Picture Man strikes again. A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 02-24-2019, 07:04 PM   #13
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Thanks for the correction. Most starters are supplied with both terminals on the solenoid even though the bypass hasn't been used for many years.
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
There aren’t 2 small wires at the starter. That was on earlier 240s. There is nothing there to reverse.
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Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
It goes to the outer terminal. The inner terminal is/was for the coil wire to give it a full 12+ volts for starting. The later mini starter solenoids don't even have an inner terminal. 1 terminal only. That's why the OP can't get it mixed up. There is only one wire, the blue/yellow wire and one terminal on a 1993 240.
... OK, nobody can screw up two terminals, one wire. Big assumption that the starter is the one from the factory
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Old 02-24-2019, 09:54 PM   #15
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The only assumption I’m making is the obvious should be obvious to somebody. If there’s never been a wire connected to one of those terminals there will be be no marks on it and it will be covered with grease and dirt. The one that had the wire connected to it will clearly have the imprint of the connector being on it. However, that’s just me from doing this stuff nearly every day of the week for the last 25 years. Your results may vary.
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Old 02-25-2019, 04:27 AM   #16
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hey guys, thanks for all the replies. I'm waiting out the weather to get out to the car and do some more troubleshooting. to answer some of the questions above. I did not transfer the engine harness, the one in the car is the original. I did not know about the WOT wire I have to cut, I will have to look into that. once I get to the car I gunna check for power at the starter and go from there. I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
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Old 02-25-2019, 07:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.haded View Post
I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
You need to be very sure that the engine can turn over by hand before you go any further.
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:27 PM   #18
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^^ What he said. If you didn’t line up the torque converter properly it may be seated right against the pump drive tangs that are supposed to engage the slots in the snout of the converter. If that is the case, the engine/trans is locked up. It has happened to many members here.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.haded View Post
hey guys, thanks for all the replies. I'm waiting out the weather to get out to the car and do some more troubleshooting. to answer some of the questions above. I did not transfer the engine harness, the one in the car is the original. I did not know about the WOT wire I have to cut, I will have to look into that. once I get to the car I gunna check for power at the starter and go from there. I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
940 has some sort of lock on the shifter once it is in park. With my Father's 940 from memory if I want to roll it forward without starting I need to be in key position 1 and brake pedal depressed to move the shifter to neutral. But it has been a long time so I may not have the sequence right, and don't know if it is relevant to a 940 drivetrain in a 240 shell.

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^^ What he said. If you didn’t line up the torque converter properly it may be seated right against the pump drive tangs that are supposed to engage the slots in the snout of the converter. If that is the case, the engine/trans is locked up. It has happened to many members here.
Original post - motor and gearbox were never separated.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pshnfry View Post
940 has some sort of lock on the shifter once it is in park.
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Originally Posted by j.haded View Post
I was concerned about the transmission maybe not being in park (its an auto) but I cant move the lever from park and I also tried the override button also.
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Originally Posted by pshnfry View Post
Original post - motor and gearbox were never separated.
Yeah, well... He can't move the shifter out of park - even using the override. So, it is a valid thing to mention.
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:09 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by pshnfry View Post
940 has some sort of lock on the shifter once it is in park. With my Father's 940 from memory if I want to roll it forward without starting I need to be in key position 1 and brake pedal depressed to move the shifter to neutral. But it has been a long time so I may not have the sequence right, and don't know if it is relevant to a 940 drivetrain in a 240 shell.



Original post - motor and gearbox were never separated.
A 93 240 is the same as the 940 system you mention. 93 was the only year the 240 had the ignition lock interlock and the brake pedal activated solenoid shifter lock. The over ride button doesn’t always work to release that solenoid as old as these parts are. The linkage may be mis-adjusted putting a lot of pressure on the shift lever against the stop.
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:38 PM   #22
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Hey guys! Sorry for taking so long for an update, snowed the other day and was finally able to work on the car today. So I found the one small gauge wire that goes to the starter was on the terminal. After I swapped it she finally cranked over! Now to look into why she won’t fire, gunna see if I’m getting fuel and or spark next. But I’m excited with this progress and thanks for all the input everyone!
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Old 03-16-2019, 10:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manyturbos View Post
It goes to the outer terminal. The inner terminal is/was for the coil wire to give it a full 12+ volts for starting. The later mini starter solenoids don't even have an inner terminal. 1 terminal only. That's why the OP can't get it mixed up. There is only one wire, the blue/yellow wire and one terminal on a 1993 240.
Yes there is only the blue and yellow wire but there is two terminals on the starter, And I had a 50 50 shot and lost. Once I switched them she began to crank!
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