My first Volvo 90 745t

Thanks! And I'll come up with a list of things to bring along...including stands, don't want another trans line blowing up on the interstate and end up laying under a jacked up car.

Trip went great, no unexpected failures. It wasn't until a week after I returned that issues started popping up

Hard cold start and intermittent driving problems started occurring. Diag happened and I'm hoping it's the ECT. We will see what happens.

I got an early Christmas present from my girlfriend.

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So I went to my brothers and we hooked them up.

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The water temp gauge is not currently reading anything. The kit came with an 1/8" NPT temp sensor.

Is the 'petcock' drain, i think it's called, 1/8"? That would be convenient, or if it's possible to tap into the stock wiring for the gauge.

I'm very pleased with the fit of the triple gauge pod. The paint is a little cheap and it seemed to be tacky still when I received it. Some minor paint chips found, but okay for the money.

http://www.gaugepods.com/volvo.html

I'm also liking the glowshift gauges. 7 different colors and auto dimming when headlights turn on.

I'm loving it honestly

Looks good!

Thanks!

I need to track down my long forgotten about vent pod and click buy on a 3/8 - 1/4 adapter plug for the petcock drain. Seems like the perfect spot for my temp sensor.

But before that happens, starting issues have been driving me insane, gonna track down a replacement CPS and try my luck. Change my oil, plugs and gonna try and "big 3" my battery and alternator. Eventually I'll post pictures of the subwoofer my brother and I installed.

300 watt Alpine (model number here) single channel amp with a 300 watt rms, 12" Powerbass DVC sub wired to 2ohm, in a home built box. I originally had 2 12''s in a huge ported box in my jeep, but after doing some research, building a sealed box within spec and matching the ohms to the amp (not sure if I'm saying that right) it sounds awesome. Some rattling from the 30 year old sh#tbox, but coupled with the Polk audio speakers in all doors, it's the best sound I've ever had in a vehicle...and it all fits underneath the trunk floorboard. (I lose my spare, but a can of fix a flat, or a free tow might have to suffice.)

I'm really enjoying having this car and learning so much. I'm ready to fix my issues and start enjoying this awesome boost weather.

During this while COVID19....pandemic? I ended up getting sick with a regular, run of the mill baterial infection of some sort. Since, coughing and sore throat are covid symptoms, I had to get tested and miss a week of work till the results came back a very suprising, negative.

So, while I was at home, I did a lot of nothing, but I got some pictures...
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I bought a 19t compressor housing with a 58mm wheel. So that means I have to get the CHRA housing machined slightly, oh well.

Plus a "genuine" Mitsu rebuild kit for the tdo4 turbos from Kinugawa.
Along with that...here comes the angled housing that originally came on the 16T.
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The known issue...almost done
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Now the downpipe...
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The turbo and WGA I bought from TRITDT turbos through ebay...same with the rebuild kit, the downpipe came from JT tuning and i asked them to place a second o2 bung roughly 32" from the flange. It looks really nice imo, way better than I could do. Price wasn't to shabby either considering shipping.

I also acquired these from board members here
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012 am and some s60r green giant injectors.

My vacation was at the end of the month, but I have been asked to wait a couple weeks and I happily obliged. Maybe it'll give me some time to think about pulling the trigger on an ostrich. At least for fueling purposes.

My wasted spark install failed...I'm not exactly sure what happened, but it starter with no start when cold, then I swapped to stock ignition with the distributor and coil. Then weeks later, same symptoms, but worse to the point the car wouldnt start for an hour, then start next minute, then die 100 yards down the road...it came down to the gold box ezk. I swapped the ezk with a random black box my brother had laying around and all issues were gone.

With that said, I'll leave the ignition alone as long as possible...until there is a reason to upgrade.

And just to note...for reference down the road...54,363 miles since the engine swap, 255,613 is the total mileage on the rest of the car and trans. Still going strong. Hopefully faster soon too.

That 19t will blow your mind. Mine (ARD kit) spools damn near instantly and pulls fabulously. Goodluck with that exhaust! I bought an ancient 3" DP, rumoured to be built by JAO or TLAO..... got it used on TB. It is quite tight, especially if you run an under chasis brace on your wagon. I should have the pics documenting it's fitment in my build thread. Take care in setting up your WG properly.

I'm very excited about it. As of now I am just waiting to have a few days to not be bothered that t he volvo is apart. Hopefully the machine shop can have it turned around rather quickly.

The fitment of the dp has been on my mind since I bought it. Especially since it's for the angled flange housing, let's hope it clears nicely. I do have under chasis bracing going on as well..

With the WGA, the compressor housing has multiple holes to pick from so the WGA is solid. Aa of now, my crude ac bracket is most likely flexing, or my current WGA is being pushed beyond its limits.

It came with a 17psi spring. My goal will be 23-24psi with the 19T. do you recommend getting a different psi spring or just slab a MBC on?

I also need to make a list and place an order for some small bits...exhaust mani gaskets, crush washers, oil filter arm seals. I used some cheap stainless braided hose for my oil frain, so that's probably cooked now and will be ruined when i try to remove. So another one of those and a way to stop the heat from getting to it.

I run a 4.5 psi WG spring, and Hallman MBC. That low opening pressure WG was recommended by ARD Tuning for use with a 19t. The low opening pressure sure hasn’t hurt my spool response of the 19t !

One week left until vacation, which will consist of fixing a power steering leak/adjusting the steering box on the Jeep, timing belt/water pump (hopefully) on the Honda, and last but certainly not least, completing the 19t/angled hot side combo with the 3" dp.

I did manage to acquire some not so blown out seats from my brothers wagon. I'd give a combined score a 5/10, while mine were definitely a 1.

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Old

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New

I started with the passenger seat, so if things went south I could still drive the car...4 bolts are easily accessible with some extensions. The tracks have a metal knub on the bottom that fits into a keyhole that makes it a little bit of a PITA. Once you do it once it's pretty easy.

It was real nasty under there. Years of spilt drinks, food, trash and change. All in the most inaccessible area. Cleaned up the best that I could with what I had on hand.
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Also gave me a good chance to run the rcas and power for the amp under the carpet/seats.

While removing the old seat, I realized the seat belt spools from the bottom on a 740, but on a 940 it spools from the top. So the cubby tray attatched to the seat is thinner and needs to be swapped.
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Easy enough, until I let the seat belt spool up all the way and it somehow locked itself. So a fun 30 or so minutes taking this apart and figuring out how a seat belt locks.
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With that figured out I bolted the new seat in.
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Now for the driver side seat, the new one is powered. Hoping that the plug would already be under there....I took the seat out, cleaned up, and figured out my manual seat cubby would not work off my 740, if I wanted to maintain the adjustment panel.

For now, I swapped cubbies, installed the seat, power seat connections are not there unfortunately, removed the panel from the old seat cubby. I will need to look up the wiring diagrams for the relay/fuse panel so I wire it up right, but for now a 20v drill battery moved the seat to my preffered driving position and I shoved the adjust panel under the seat. We'll get to that later...
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I have yet to drive, but sitting in them. They are higher, no doubt from the better support, and more comfortable. The bolstering on the sides are more pronounced and the headrests look more modern and match the rear. Overall happy for now. Maybe I can find a manual drivers seat in good condition eventually.

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Finally getting time to start ripping everything apart. Started first thing after work, after a beer and the car cooled off.
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I love how fast things can come apart.
The conical housing outlet is dwarfed by the angled. I'll get a comparison shot tomorrow.
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Tomorrow will be separating and tearing down the 16T, hopefully making it to the machine shop with the CHRA and new 58mm compressor wheel, "ceramic" high temp paint on the turbine housing, wrapping the downpipe, swapping injectors and figuring a way to put the 3" AMM in place. I love working on go fast stuff, so much more exciting than a heater core...

I didn't get as much done today as I wanted, but I ended up running around all day with the family. I did get to break down the 16T and drop it off to a local machine shop.
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Crusty crusty crusty and oily.
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All clean and ready to be machined.

My brother and I are planning on doing the same process at the same time, turbo wise. So we watched through the ARD tuning YouTube video a couples time and went ahead and tore it down. Very dirty, definitely could see the turbo being the cause of my smokey exhaust and oil loss.

Old compressor wheel with turbine shaft/wheel
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Does anyone know what these notches are in the compressor wheel? Balancing? It clearly was notched on purpose...the new wheel does not have these notches.
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Otoh, CHRA is at the machine shop. Looking at early next week is what I was told before I get it back. That's fine, I can do everything else in the meantime.

Keep working along...wrapped the top half of the downpipe in titanium fiber glass exhaust wrap. I hate that stuff. But it's done.
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Got some comparison pics of the exhaust housing and of the AMMs.
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The angled has a nice factory port, unlike the straight and conical housing. The outlet flanges are no doubt way bigger

Same with the AMM
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The bigger AMM does not really matter at this pointf for airflow, I'll be reducing it back to stock so I can continue using the 2.5" do88 inlet hose my brother gave me back when.
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I just need a hard connecting pipe, probably will be pvc out the plumbing section if I'm gonna be honest. Painted black, cause white would look cheap....

Did some other odds and ends, cleaned up the studs and washers for the manifold. Used pb blaster and mineral spirits in a water bottle and let them soak all day. Wire brush and cloth to dry and they look 100x better than before. Ill be using new volvo locknuts for the manifild amd exhaust housing, but studs and washers completely slipped my mind.

I Installed the green giant injectors with some new o-rings. I also finished grinding away at my ported/non-egr manifold to fit the nut on the angled housing and started the ceramic coating.

Until tomorrow....

Cured the manifold and exhaust housing in the oven last night. Hopefully this stuff actually sticks, I used VHT header paint. It's supposed to be a ceramic coating that can withstand intermittent temps of 2000F.
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New volvo locknuts on the exhaust housing and manifold. I ordered a jam nut to use for the stud on the angled housing, after alot of grinding, it works nice.
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So the adapter I ordered for my temp sensor was wrong...I accidentally ordered 1/4" instead of 1/8". So a trip to the hardware store and another adapter, I should have a working temp gauge...
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Check out that bright red engine paint still holding up after 60k miles!

I went to fit the downpipe from JT tuning....and it fits! Almost....it is a tad tight on the top of the pipe under the car, right next to the Trans crossmember. A bfh will give some love tomorrow to make some room. They definitely made it tight to the body.
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One issue that will need to be addressed...
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Too good to be true...I asked for the o2 bung to be placed at a slight angle upward on the passenger side. Well, I guess they assumed I had a rhd car, because they put it on the drivers side at a hard angle. Right on top of the Trans crossmember. Luckily I have a o2 plug handy...I'm taking it to get a new bung welded in tomorrow, in a spot I'll choose.

Times like these makes me want to learn how to weld. My old exhaust should make nice practice material.

Mbeas96 said:

Too good to be true...I asked for the o2 bung to be placed at a slight angle upward on the passenger side. Well, I guess they assumed I had a rhd car, because they put it on the drivers side at a hard angle. Right on top of the Trans crossmember. Luckily I have a o2 plug handy...I'm taking it to get a new bung welded in tomorrow, in a spot I'll choose.

Times like these makes me want to learn how to weld. My old exhaust should make nice practice material.

Click to expand...

I doubt they would've assumed you had a RHD vehicle, but more likely they may not have had a reference to check the location of where the sensor might foul on something. I bought a full JT tuning exhaust minus the downpipe for my RHD 940, because I knew it required a far more complicated series of bends than LHD cars require to avoid hitting the column.

You could take it to an exhaust shop and get them to cut the pipe, rotate slightly and re-weld if that will allow the bung to be positioned somewhere that will suit, or just plug it up like you said and have another somewhere else. I did a night course for welding so I could do jobs like that by myself and would highly recommend teaching yourself or doing a course. Opens up so many possibilities when you can do it. Good luck!

deNs said:

I doubt they would've assumed you had a RHD vehicle, but more likely they may not have had a reference to check the location of where the sensor might foul on something. I bought a full JT tuning exhaust minus the downpipe for my RHD 940, because I knew it required a far more complicated series of bends than LHD cars require to avoid hitting the column.

You could take it to an exhaust shop and get them to cut the pipe, rotate slightly and re-weld if that will allow the bung to be positioned somewhere that will suit, or just plug it up like you said and have another somewhere else. I did a night course for welding so I could do jobs like that by myself and would highly recommend teaching yourself or doing a course. Opens up so many possibilities when you can do it. Good luck!

Click to expand...

The only reason I say they assumed I had a rhd car is because it's on the drivers side. I agree with not having a reference to see where it would clear, but LHD drivers side has really no room anywhere for it be wi th out hitting the crossmember, Trans cooler lines (for an auto) or bellhousing. Maybe it'd be more open in a manual.

I also thought about cutting and rotating, but that would leave the eyelet brace to be on the passenger side as well, with nothing close to brace it on.

Don't get me wrong, it's a very nicely made piece, I'm considering buying the rest of the system so my car doesn't sound like a turbo tractor.

I used a bfh to gain some clearance at the end of the downpipe. Here's a better picture.
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There's a black X marked where the new o2 bung will be. I just plugged the other hole, a little MORE beating for that to not rub...
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And it's done, 25 bucks including a bung. Not bad.

Also got the CHRA back today. A local machine shop, Davidson machine shop in North Charleston, was more than happy to ensure it back to me early this week. The prior one I went to told me it'd be 2 weeks before he could touch it. Looks great!
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And with that comes the rebuild. Again watching an ARD tuning video on youtube...the process went smoothly enough.
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It is cat approved.
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There is zero shaft play that I can feel. Side to side or in and out. It's pretty awesome. I'll let the locktight dry overnight and slap it all together tomorrow at some point.

Loctite says cures in 24 hours. Should I wait till say, 8pm tomorrow night to start the car? Idk if I want to risk it loosening...

Okay, so back to the turbo rebuild...I say it went smoothly, but in the end I thought the wheels didn't turn freely enough. They spun without hitting or rubbing anything, but as soon as I let go they would stop pretty immediately. I confirmed it was wrong by comparing to the 13c I had in my shed...tear it apart I go. Actually, only till I took the compressor nut back off did I realize the compressor wheel is ****ing tight on the shaft. Not wanting to pry with a screwdriver....I just tapped the turbine shaft down towards the exhaust side with the back of a screwdriver. It must have moved barely, because now I have a smidge of in/out play, but the wheels spin effortlessly now. Smoother than the 13c (high miles). So back down the compressor nut goes with some more loctite. This time it's all good.

Something must of pinched or binded as I put it back together. Glad I decided to take it apart...a couple online forums from google were trying to lead me to believe it would loosen up after break in. No sir.

It was pouring all morning, so I really didn't expect to do much today, but instead I put everything back together...without taking a single picture.

It lives! It drives! It does not leak! And best of all, NO OIL SMOKE OUT THE EXHAUST. Ah, that's a great feeling.

I haven't boosted at all, some Google searches say to break in the "new" turbo for 100-150 miles before boosting. That's fine with me, I'd rather give the computers time to learn this crazy far from stock setup.

Glowshift temp gauge works! Which is great. It seems to either be slow or it is actually correct and the factory gauge has a "faker" in it.

Factory gauge took approximately 8 minutes to reach operating temp at idle. The glowshift gauge, with the temp sensor in the petcock location took 10 minutes of idling and 2 miles at 45mph to reach 180F.

Anybody think the glowshift is right? Or maybe just a sensor location that heats up slower than the stock location?

I'll get pics tomorrow!

Ya know i forgot to mention. It's loud as ****. A throaty turbo tractor. I wonder what WOT sounds like. I almost died laughing when i first started it.

For the time being I'll get a long 3" pipe and band clamp it on. I'll cut it right before the rear axle, hopefully that will push all the tractor noises behind my ears.

And just so pictures show on page 5....I had a difficult time getting number 4 injector to seal against the fuel rail. Brand new o rings, so I'm not sure why, but regardless, I recieved 5 s60r injectors, so the extra, plus the new orings went on and the leak stopped.

Also, looking for advice on installing an o2 sensor...seriously though. Since mine is original and there is no disconnect, how would you go about twisting the sensor into the bung?
I tried to compensate by twisting the opposite direction before installing, but there were alot more turns than I anticipated and the wires are left twisted.