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Old 02-08-2017, 03:44 PM   #1
1988760
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Default Water pump grommet leaks!!!

I have a 88 760 T-Wagon with 127K on it. The water pump was changed at 113K 6 years ago. I think it was a HULU, HUKU, something like that, now I notice that grommet at the top of the pump where the block accepts that pipe is leaking. I guess I am stuck for a new pump. We recently changed belts, but I can't believe belt tension would cause that upper grommet to leak. What is the best pumps to use aside from original Volvo?

Thanks in advance,

Bill
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Old 02-08-2017, 03:52 PM   #2
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Hepu pump with Volvo gaskets. Hands down the best way to go. The Hepu gaskets, some people have issues with leaking. Depending on where you live and weather conditions, along with heat cycles, that grommet can and will rot out over time
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:05 PM   #3
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It happens. Just get a new gasket.

Maybe pry up a bit with a pipe or bar thus time to get some extra squish on it. And RHEN tighten the bolts. Might help.
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Old 02-08-2017, 10:37 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Maybe pry up a bit with a pipe or bar thus time to get some extra squish on it.
No "maybe" about it: you need to exert a bit of upward pressure to get the face of the WP to seal against the head.

It'll leak if you just slap it on without pressing it up.
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Old 02-08-2017, 11:09 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by centason View Post
Hepu pump with Volvo gaskets. Hands down the best way to go. The Hepu gaskets, some people have issues with leaking. Depending on where you live and weather conditions, along with heat cycles, that grommet can and will rot out over time
This
My hepu with hepu gaskets leaked after about a year
Swapped to volvo gaskets all good now
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:21 AM   #6
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I had a Kolbenschmidt last for 300K miles, had a Hepu leaking a few days later
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:09 AM   #7
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* The grommet can be a pain in the XXX if bad, luckily I've rarely had trouble, but what a pain when it happens.

Installed a Gates(water pump) a year ago & no issues/leaks. It went on easy & came with nice hardware. A local supplier provided it, after I asked for a GMB(water pump), only to learn the local store no longer carries GMB, after several disputes concerning quality control.

Haven't tried HEPU with Volvo gaskets/seals, next time I guess ?

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Old 02-09-2017, 08:51 AM   #8
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Water pump brands may vary but always a Volvo gasket set here with no leaks. Ever. Broke my rule with the last pump and a year later the grommet was dripping.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:29 PM   #9
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Felpro has a B230 water pump gasket and seal kit (minus the coolant pipe o-ring) for about $1.49.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:46 PM   #10
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Directions for using Felpro gaskets:

Step 1: Throw them in the trash.

Personally, I'd just get a OE WP gasket set. Do it right and be done.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:33 PM   #11
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I learned a long time ago not to use any sealant on either the top O-ring or the heater pipe O-ring. As a matter of fact, I don't use sealant on anything other than the paper gasket, and then I use Non-Hardening Permatex (old school).

All the O-rings need is a light coating of silicone grease so that they can spread out evenly "flow" when they are compressed.

With a good Neoprene O-ring and proper compression, leaks are rare.

Before installing the pump, be sure to insert new O-ring onto heater pipe and lube with silicone. As you place the pump on the block, push the pipe (w/O-ring) into the back of the water pump until it is fully seated.

The bolt that secures the pipe to the pump will slightly compress the O-ring when you tighten it.

Next, place the new pump on the engine block (with gasket stuck on pump with sealant....both sides coated, insert the mounting bolts through the pump and start the bolts in their holes, and tighten them by hand (loose).

Using your left hand, push up on the pump to slightly compress the O-ring against the head.
Snug the top right bolt (looking to rear of car) while holding the pump up and against the head.
At that point, use that bolt as a pivot point to lever the left side of the pump up (again looking to rear) and compress the O-ring, then snug the upper left bolt.
Note: This is the hole in the water pump that is slightly oval in shape.

Then snug all of the bolts in a left/right/up/down pattern until all are snug.
At that point, torque all bolts to spec.


That's the way I do it, and I've done a lot of them over the years.

Cleaning of the engine block where the pump mounts is very important.
I use a razor blade to scrape the surface so that it is perfectly clean and then wipe with solvent

Hope this helps
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Old 02-09-2017, 06:02 PM   #12
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Cleaning of the engine block where the pump mounts is very important.
Yes, I agree. Not always as obvious is the need to clean the underside of the head.

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