DavePolyakov
Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2020
- Location
- Shoreline, WA
I should have started my project thread when I started the project. Now I have already finished the T5 swap in my 740 and I will cover everything I did as well as other things. I will do my best to guide you on your own 700/900 t5 swap which is documented much less than the 240 t5 swaps.
My first car was my 1986 244 m46 which I bought the day before my junior year of high school. I love that car but I always wanted to know what a turbobrick felt like. A week before my senior year began I saw this 1990 740 turbo wagon show up on craigslist for $800 with a blown turbo and some other issues. I picked it up and drove it home (smoking the whole way) for $650. The engine was fully rebuilt in 2007 and the car has no rust.
Maintenance time:
These are not in any particular order, this is everything I can remember doing since I bought the car. Probably forgetting some items, in hindsight I really should have started the project thread when I bought the car
When I bought my 240 the PO had gathered a decent amount of parts for a +t he never did. He even had a 15g in good shape and he already fabbed a wastegate mount for it. I clocked it to about what looked right and installed it on the 740 to replace the blown 13c. I also replaced the blown exhaust gaskets. It was a real tractor before this
The issue with the 15g is that it needs to be exactly clocked perfectly or you will have difficulty installing the oil drain pipe and the oil feed pipe. I managed to get the drainpipe in but it cracked the o-ring over time (I think this is what happened). I did the classic TB method and cut the pipe and reconnected it with some hose. It's been holding about a month, when it fails I'll buy the Yoshifab AN solution for this. To connect the oil feed line I need to use a pry bar off of the exhaust manifold to massage the hard line into position so I can thread the bolt. It works. I have not had any trouble with this.
At some point, I got these minty cloth seats from the junkyard
Engine mounts: My hydraulic mounts were not good, I found a solid mount set for sale here on TB, and then I bought 240 diesel mounts to go with them. You need to cut one hole in each metal mount to allow the 240 diesel mounts to fit but this is really easy. I don't have pics but it's very straightforward to make them fit. Swapping them was pretty easy, I found it way easier than on a 240 to thread all the bolts. I jack from the oil pan and have not had any issues.
Boosting: No pics, but I bought a boost controller and a boost gauge. I installed the boost gauge in the vent near the door. I still need to wire the lights for it so I can see my boosting when it's dark. I've kept it around 13psi.
IPD Turbo Cam: Second time installing a cam for me, my first time on a 740 with head-mounted dizzy. I found it easiest to shim the new cam by removing it and reinstalling it than trying to mess with the shims while the cam is installed.
The T5 Swap: I guess I'll just jump right into it. This is my parts list, I'm not going to include prices. I went with a cable clutch system, not hydraulic. I may swap to hydraulic in the future but for now, I'm sticking with the cable.
Dee works adapter plate and input shaft bearing retainer (part of the kit).
Clutch components: Yoshifab Stage 2 clutch and PP kit.
Flywheel: STS Machining 20lbs flywheel.
Clutch cable: Aftermarket 740 cable from IPD. (It's cheap, if you can find a genuine Volvo one buy it! this one kind of sucks but it works). To attach the clutch cable to the fork you need a rubber damper PN 1329785 and a metal damper 1273675. To connect the cable to the pedal you need rubber block 1329786. I've included a photo of these clutch parts below.
Manual pedal box: Bought from a fellow TB member.
Pilot bearing: Ford 5.0 bearing is the one
Clutch fork: Volvo 1212189
Throwout bearing: Sachs SN3727, 3549881, 1220955, 3151190031
Center support bearing: Spicer 210084-2X
Driveshaft: I took my stock AW-71 two-piece and had a driveshaft shop cut the front shaft down to 16.5 inches and install the CSB.
Slip yoke: Ford Slip yoke F6ZZ4841BA. I found mine on a 4 cylinder Ranger in a junkyard. In 700/900s the slip yoke has no clearance issues. I've heard on 240's it may have some clearance issues.
Crossmember: Yoshifab 700/900 t5 cross-member and poly trans mount.
Clutch diagram and required dampers you need. I was finished with everything when I realized I needed these dampers. It was a frustrating three weeks sourcing the parts because otherwise, the car was ready to go.
Removing the AW71: This was my first time removing a trans. I did it on jack stands without a transmission jack. I bought a trans jack to install the T5 but it's doable to remove it without one, maybe a little bit sketchy. I tried to save the cooling lines and the dipstick but I had to cut the dipstick and the lines got all bent and destroyed. There was nothing particularly difficult about removing it other than the fact it's 150lbs or so.
Rear Main Seal: It didn't look like it was visually leaking but I thought I might as well do it. I paid top dollar for the genuine Volvo seal which came with a plastic seal guide to get it to install without bending the lip.
The Deeworks adapter plate: First, I want to talk about the bearing retainer that needs to be installed in place of the stock input shaft retainer on the T5. The Deeworks bearing retainer will only fit on a trans with an 83-93 v8 input shaft, which is a different length and thickness than all the other input shafts on T5's. I bought a 4-cyl T5 and sold it when I realized it wouldn't work with the adapter. Then I bought a WC 4cyl-T5 and had to sell that one too before I bought a professionally rebuilt T5 with the proper v8 Input shaft.
This is a good reference for t5 interchangeability: http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_interchange.htm
The adapter plate itself took some messing around before everything sandwiched together with no gaps. Don't force anything. I also bought the Deeworks Speedometer plug but it didn't fit. I bought a B&M speedo plug and that one fit perfectly.
Before installing the trans I spaced out the pivot ball on the shift fork about a half-inch. The clutch engages closer to the top of the travel than the bottom but it's fine. I've not had to remove the trans since I installed it for the first time.
I have no pictures of installing the pilot bearing, flywheel, and clutch assembly but it's all straightforward. At TDC, install the flywheel so the gap in the teeth points through the hole where the starter goes. I reused my flywheel bolts and I'm still here.
Ready to slap in!
Installing it wasn't too bad. The only way to install it is to install the bellhousing first, then attach the trans. With a trans jack, it's relatively easy. I did have some trouble aligning the clutch with the input shaft but I eventually got it in.
Driveshaft and the center support bearing: I shortened my stock two-piece driveshaft at a driveshaft shop. The front shaft was shortened to 16.5 inches, u-joint center to u-joint center. If I were to go back, I would have got it shortened to 17.5 inches. At 16.5 inches, I had to drill another set of holes in the CSB bracket because 16.5 inches was just too short. The slip yoke was sticking out too far.
I used the Spicer 210084-2X center support bearing. It is much beefier. To make it fit in the 700/900 trans tunnel the top of it needs to be shaved down. I just used a cut-off wheel. This is what it looked like when I was finished:
Here's the full driveshaft when I picked it up from the driveshaft shop. To recap, the front shaft is 16.5 inches connected with a dampened slip yoke from a 4-cylinder and the spicer CSB. The rear shaft is stock length. I went to Drivelines NW in Everett, WA for this service. Including a balance and paint as well as installing the new CSB it was just under $300.
Shifter Dilemma: This has been a big PITA for this swap. In a 740, a T5 with a mustang tail housing will place the shifter several inches too far forward to the shift hole. To make the swap work you need to extend the shifter backward. Below is a picture of my first prototype shifter I made with some steel. I also had to hammer the shifter hole quite a bit. This would be much easier if this is done before you install the trans again. I would recommend buying a shifter from Qwik Stik on eBay if you are going to do this swap.
My custom shifter:
Qwik Stik Shifter:
Neutral safety bypass: The wires I sautered together to bypass the neutral safety in the automatic. It's the two pink wires and the one blue wire. I can't remember exactly what they're from because I did this several months ago but I remember it was pretty easy to find which one's needed to be sautered.
Here's a photo of the interior installed. Instead of buying a plastic center console piece from a stock manual 700/900 I just cut the automatic one that came with the car. It basically looks stock. Here's a photo of my interior. The rubber-style stock shift boot likes to pull the shifter into neutral when I'm in 3rd and 5th so I will need to find another boot that doesn't do this. I would be happy to trade this rubber style 700/900 shift boot for the leather style with the collar. Someone hmu if you want to trade. I can add a few bucks.
Driveshaft operating angles: When you install this driveshaft you will need to buy adjustable torque rods to be able to adjust the pinion angle. You will also need to shim down the CSB bracket. With a two-piece shaft, the trick to getting proper angles is setting the first shaft 1-1.5 degrees different than the trans. Then, set the pinion angle identical to the angle of the first shaft. Even with proper angles, my car has a resonance of around 2-2,500. I would describe it as a deep reverberation. It's very livable but takes some time until it felt normal. I was confused between this and driveshaft angle vibration but I think this resonance is common when you mate a T5 to a redblock.
My first car was my 1986 244 m46 which I bought the day before my junior year of high school. I love that car but I always wanted to know what a turbobrick felt like. A week before my senior year began I saw this 1990 740 turbo wagon show up on craigslist for $800 with a blown turbo and some other issues. I picked it up and drove it home (smoking the whole way) for $650. The engine was fully rebuilt in 2007 and the car has no rust.
Maintenance time:
These are not in any particular order, this is everything I can remember doing since I bought the car. Probably forgetting some items, in hindsight I really should have started the project thread when I bought the car
When I bought my 240 the PO had gathered a decent amount of parts for a +t he never did. He even had a 15g in good shape and he already fabbed a wastegate mount for it. I clocked it to about what looked right and installed it on the 740 to replace the blown 13c. I also replaced the blown exhaust gaskets. It was a real tractor before this
The issue with the 15g is that it needs to be exactly clocked perfectly or you will have difficulty installing the oil drain pipe and the oil feed pipe. I managed to get the drainpipe in but it cracked the o-ring over time (I think this is what happened). I did the classic TB method and cut the pipe and reconnected it with some hose. It's been holding about a month, when it fails I'll buy the Yoshifab AN solution for this. To connect the oil feed line I need to use a pry bar off of the exhaust manifold to massage the hard line into position so I can thread the bolt. It works. I have not had any trouble with this.
At some point, I got these minty cloth seats from the junkyard
Engine mounts: My hydraulic mounts were not good, I found a solid mount set for sale here on TB, and then I bought 240 diesel mounts to go with them. You need to cut one hole in each metal mount to allow the 240 diesel mounts to fit but this is really easy. I don't have pics but it's very straightforward to make them fit. Swapping them was pretty easy, I found it way easier than on a 240 to thread all the bolts. I jack from the oil pan and have not had any issues.
Boosting: No pics, but I bought a boost controller and a boost gauge. I installed the boost gauge in the vent near the door. I still need to wire the lights for it so I can see my boosting when it's dark. I've kept it around 13psi.
IPD Turbo Cam: Second time installing a cam for me, my first time on a 740 with head-mounted dizzy. I found it easiest to shim the new cam by removing it and reinstalling it than trying to mess with the shims while the cam is installed.
The T5 Swap: I guess I'll just jump right into it. This is my parts list, I'm not going to include prices. I went with a cable clutch system, not hydraulic. I may swap to hydraulic in the future but for now, I'm sticking with the cable.
Dee works adapter plate and input shaft bearing retainer (part of the kit).
Clutch components: Yoshifab Stage 2 clutch and PP kit.
Flywheel: STS Machining 20lbs flywheel.
Clutch cable: Aftermarket 740 cable from IPD. (It's cheap, if you can find a genuine Volvo one buy it! this one kind of sucks but it works). To attach the clutch cable to the fork you need a rubber damper PN 1329785 and a metal damper 1273675. To connect the cable to the pedal you need rubber block 1329786. I've included a photo of these clutch parts below.
Manual pedal box: Bought from a fellow TB member.
Pilot bearing: Ford 5.0 bearing is the one
Clutch fork: Volvo 1212189
Throwout bearing: Sachs SN3727, 3549881, 1220955, 3151190031
Center support bearing: Spicer 210084-2X
Driveshaft: I took my stock AW-71 two-piece and had a driveshaft shop cut the front shaft down to 16.5 inches and install the CSB.
Slip yoke: Ford Slip yoke F6ZZ4841BA. I found mine on a 4 cylinder Ranger in a junkyard. In 700/900s the slip yoke has no clearance issues. I've heard on 240's it may have some clearance issues.
Crossmember: Yoshifab 700/900 t5 cross-member and poly trans mount.
Clutch diagram and required dampers you need. I was finished with everything when I realized I needed these dampers. It was a frustrating three weeks sourcing the parts because otherwise, the car was ready to go.
Removing the AW71: This was my first time removing a trans. I did it on jack stands without a transmission jack. I bought a trans jack to install the T5 but it's doable to remove it without one, maybe a little bit sketchy. I tried to save the cooling lines and the dipstick but I had to cut the dipstick and the lines got all bent and destroyed. There was nothing particularly difficult about removing it other than the fact it's 150lbs or so.
Rear Main Seal: It didn't look like it was visually leaking but I thought I might as well do it. I paid top dollar for the genuine Volvo seal which came with a plastic seal guide to get it to install without bending the lip.
The Deeworks adapter plate: First, I want to talk about the bearing retainer that needs to be installed in place of the stock input shaft retainer on the T5. The Deeworks bearing retainer will only fit on a trans with an 83-93 v8 input shaft, which is a different length and thickness than all the other input shafts on T5's. I bought a 4-cyl T5 and sold it when I realized it wouldn't work with the adapter. Then I bought a WC 4cyl-T5 and had to sell that one too before I bought a professionally rebuilt T5 with the proper v8 Input shaft.
This is a good reference for t5 interchangeability: http://www.pro-forceperformance.com/t-5_interchange.htm
The adapter plate itself took some messing around before everything sandwiched together with no gaps. Don't force anything. I also bought the Deeworks Speedometer plug but it didn't fit. I bought a B&M speedo plug and that one fit perfectly.
Before installing the trans I spaced out the pivot ball on the shift fork about a half-inch. The clutch engages closer to the top of the travel than the bottom but it's fine. I've not had to remove the trans since I installed it for the first time.
I have no pictures of installing the pilot bearing, flywheel, and clutch assembly but it's all straightforward. At TDC, install the flywheel so the gap in the teeth points through the hole where the starter goes. I reused my flywheel bolts and I'm still here.
Ready to slap in!
Installing it wasn't too bad. The only way to install it is to install the bellhousing first, then attach the trans. With a trans jack, it's relatively easy. I did have some trouble aligning the clutch with the input shaft but I eventually got it in.
Driveshaft and the center support bearing: I shortened my stock two-piece driveshaft at a driveshaft shop. The front shaft was shortened to 16.5 inches, u-joint center to u-joint center. If I were to go back, I would have got it shortened to 17.5 inches. At 16.5 inches, I had to drill another set of holes in the CSB bracket because 16.5 inches was just too short. The slip yoke was sticking out too far.
I used the Spicer 210084-2X center support bearing. It is much beefier. To make it fit in the 700/900 trans tunnel the top of it needs to be shaved down. I just used a cut-off wheel. This is what it looked like when I was finished:
Here's the full driveshaft when I picked it up from the driveshaft shop. To recap, the front shaft is 16.5 inches connected with a dampened slip yoke from a 4-cylinder and the spicer CSB. The rear shaft is stock length. I went to Drivelines NW in Everett, WA for this service. Including a balance and paint as well as installing the new CSB it was just under $300.
Shifter Dilemma: This has been a big PITA for this swap. In a 740, a T5 with a mustang tail housing will place the shifter several inches too far forward to the shift hole. To make the swap work you need to extend the shifter backward. Below is a picture of my first prototype shifter I made with some steel. I also had to hammer the shifter hole quite a bit. This would be much easier if this is done before you install the trans again. I would recommend buying a shifter from Qwik Stik on eBay if you are going to do this swap.
My custom shifter:
Qwik Stik Shifter:
Neutral safety bypass: The wires I sautered together to bypass the neutral safety in the automatic. It's the two pink wires and the one blue wire. I can't remember exactly what they're from because I did this several months ago but I remember it was pretty easy to find which one's needed to be sautered.
Here's a photo of the interior installed. Instead of buying a plastic center console piece from a stock manual 700/900 I just cut the automatic one that came with the car. It basically looks stock. Here's a photo of my interior. The rubber-style stock shift boot likes to pull the shifter into neutral when I'm in 3rd and 5th so I will need to find another boot that doesn't do this. I would be happy to trade this rubber style 700/900 shift boot for the leather style with the collar. Someone hmu if you want to trade. I can add a few bucks.
Driveshaft operating angles: When you install this driveshaft you will need to buy adjustable torque rods to be able to adjust the pinion angle. You will also need to shim down the CSB bracket. With a two-piece shaft, the trick to getting proper angles is setting the first shaft 1-1.5 degrees different than the trans. Then, set the pinion angle identical to the angle of the first shaft. Even with proper angles, my car has a resonance of around 2-2,500. I would describe it as a deep reverberation. It's very livable but takes some time until it felt normal. I was confused between this and driveshaft angle vibration but I think this resonance is common when you mate a T5 to a redblock.