• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

My very bad day: shattered valve, gouged piston

It's about half a mm lower than its neighbor at tdc. Going to get the rod checked when I take the head in for cleanup.

Ouch! I had the same thing happen on my Tundra this summer. The valve just fell off the stem 18k miles after I rebuilt the motor. The reason I had to rebuild was because on drivers side bank, the valves hit pistons due to timing belt slip. There was no apparent damage to the passenger side head, so I reused it after inspection. Turns out it must have had a micro crack in the valve stem.

At least your rod is still ok. Mine was bent so the piston top was about a mm lower at TDC than the other cylinders.

<a href="https://imgbox.com/g3meZFOE" target="_blank"><img src="https://images2.imgbox.com/7a/68/g3meZFOE_o.jpeg" style="width:600px;" alt="image host"/></a>
 
I'm sure I can still run it...
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/6yxgyh7/IMG-7693.jpg" alt="IMG-7693" border="0">

Yes, you can remove the oil pan without removing the engine from the car. I dropped the nose of the trans and raised the front of the engine, just enough room to clear the oil pump and pull the pan out:
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/pwMxdbM/IMG-7690.jpg" alt="IMG-7690" border="0">

Does this look like normal wear for a bearing? Crank journal shows no sign of scoring.
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/NCN9R31/IMG-7692.jpg" alt="IMG-7692" border="0">
 
I don't think that's normal wear at all, no. But I wonder how much of it is due to what just happened to your engine. Is the rod bent too ?

What are you running for an alternator ? I don't recognize it.
 
Not looking forward to trying to figure out the size of the bearing, I wish they would stamp them with the size. I'm sure all of it is due to what happened to the engine. The rod is also bent and twisted, I'm picking up a straight one this afternoon.

Alternator is a Volvo-stamped OEM unit, I'm pretty sure it's stock to the car.

I don't think that's normal wear at all, no. But I wonder how much of it is due to what just happened to your engine. Is the rod bent too ?

What are you running for an alternator ? I don't recognize it.
 
Do yourself a favour and get the engine out.
The rod will not match with weight. Never.
And the piston too

The "new" "rebuild" engine will be destroyed very fast otherwise.
You will regret not pulling the engine.
And buy better valves. check the other 7 valves very closely too
My 2c

Good luck, Kay
 
I'm sure I can still run it...
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/6yxgyh7/IMG-7693.jpg" alt="IMG-7693" border="0">

Yes, you can remove the oil pan without removing the engine from the car. I dropped the nose of the trans and raised the front of the engine, just enough room to clear the oil pump and pull the pan out:
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/pwMxdbM/IMG-7690.jpg" alt="IMG-7690" border="0">

Does this look like normal wear for a bearing? Crank journal shows no sign of scoring.
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/NCN9R31/IMG-7692.jpg" alt="IMG-7692" border="0">

It's even possible this twisted the crank. No joke
 
Yikes.

You really should go through the effort of taking the engine out. I spent like four months trying to rebuild my B20 with it in the car, and it's really more trouble than it's worth, unless you happen to have a lift and a table to support the entire subframe.

EDIT: Ok, nevermind. I see you got it out. Had this comment ready for like 10 minutes before posting, and it looks like a lot has changed.
 
Last edited:
I can measure the weight of the old rod vs the new rod and make adjustments accordingly.
There is no metal missing from the old rod so the weight should be accurate.

Not sure if there are "better" valves for these old B20s, they all seem to be pretty standard.

Do yourself a favour and get the engine out.
The rod will not match with weight. Never.
And the piston too

The "new" "rebuild" engine will be destroyed very fast otherwise.
You will regret not pulling the engine.
And buy better valves. check the other 7 valves very closely too
My 2c

Good luck, Kay
 
Back
Top