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Small Block Chevy in a 240

I put a 350 Chevy with a Power-Glide 2 speed transmission in my '78 wagon 33 years ago, 32 years ago I made it a 2 door wagon hence 2 series 8 cylinder 3 door/SD.


You're not this guy, are you?


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You're not this guy, are you?


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YES The picture was taken at the Rhinebeck Show, I did not take the vidieo, but yes that is my car
 
The wagon will top out @ 145MPH @ 6000k RPM with the 3.31 rear, I have no doubt about it, just need to find some where to do it. My '61 MG Midget will top out @ 146 MPH @ 8500 RPM [1275cc engine 125+ HP], I know this because we used it in the F Prod race car one year to qualify it for the SCCA National Run Off's. Some where I have an in car video of it going up the back straight at Watkins Glen with the tach sitting a @ 8500RPM,[ red line on the stock crank shaft]. Just waiting for the weather to clear to here in the North East to take the Volvo,the MG or our Bentley out for a drive. I am retired now after 50 years of working on cars,restoration, and building and, restoring race cars.
 
Looks like their facebook page says they're still open. https://www.facebook.com/JTRstealth/ It's a lot easier to drop in a ready-made mount than making the careful and pita measurements with a several hundred pound engine flopping around in the bay inches from your fingers.

I agree with you. I?m not saying that book won?t help. The cradle can be fabricated ahead of time and its final location determined once the engine is in the engine bay. I have never even seen the JTR book for any of the makes of cars. I did my conversion before those books were even published.
 
are there any model years that stand out to you guys? I know they changed headlights and grills over time,
Any of them will work. The earlier ones are becoming very hard to find. The very latest couple of years are prized for slightly lower wind noise (better weatherstripping and flush mount glass) and tend to attract a bit more $. For whatever reason, wagons are often valued higher than 4-doors, and manual is more sought-after than automatic.

Putting all that info together, for your purposes I'd guess the sweet spot will point toward something like a 4-dr automatic from 86-90. That's a very robust platform and still virtually dirt cheap. Might even be free if you're in the right place at the right time.
 
If you plan to daily drive the car, you might look into a 700r4 to replace the 2 speed. Your wallet will thank you in the long run, I expect.
 
If you plan to daily drive the car, you might look into a 700r4 to replace the 2 speed. Your wallet will thank you in the long run, I expect.

Amen... 2 gears is not fun as a DD. I run a 700r4 and love it.. I'm old school SBC too, well kinda, I got a roller cam and FI
 
A 700r4 is OK but will not fit easy in a 240. The powerglide was no problem fitting it into my car, besides they are still using it in drag/race cars today, yes there advantages to both transmissions. At WOT my wagon shifts out of low @ 74MPH, most cars will have to shift into 3rd gear by then making two shifts. Unless your are good with shifting you can't beat a PG. My car has enough power to pull drive from 25-30MPH, If I have to it, will kick down into low at 45-50MPH, just make sure the steering wheel is aimed straight.When the transmission was first put in the car 33years ago it would break the tires loose at WOT doing into drive, I try not to do that to much any more. BTW the trans mount for the PG was right above the stock cross member, all that I did was make a mount for it welded to the stock cross member.You can say what you want, but I've enjoyed my car for 33 years now.
 
A 700r4 is OK but will not fit easy in a 240. The powerglide was no problem fitting it into my car, besides they are still using it in drag/race cars today, yes there advantages to both transmissions. At WOT my wagon shifts out of low @ 74MPH, most cars will have to shift into 3rd gear by then making two shifts. Unless your are good with shifting you can't beat a PG. My car has enough power to pull drive from 25-30MPH, If I have to it, will kick down into low at 45-50MPH, just make sure the steering wheel is aimed straight.When the transmission was first put in the car 33years ago it would break the tires loose at WOT doing into drive, I try not to do that to much any more. BTW the trans mount for the PG was right above the stock cross member, all that I did was make a mount for it welded to the stock cross member.You can say what you want, but I've enjoyed my car for 33 years now.

There's no problem with using a power glide. I'm just speaking from a gas mileage point of view. That's exactly what the 700r4 was developed for. Just thinking that the OP might enjoy the extra MPGs.
 
So far Ive gathered that to swap a motor from a volvo 245 with my 283 sbc and powerglide I need:

-Motor mounts sourced from jags that run
-Aftermarket radiator
-mount for the transmission
-Either ram horn exhaust manifolds or hugger headers to clear the wheel wells in the engine bay

That is what I have gathered so far. From what I understand I can keep the original gas tank but will need an aftermarket fuel pump/fuel lines.
The 240 came with a Dana 30 but there's no posi traction so to achieve the two wheel peel I would need to weld the differential.
Front end suspension needs beefed up. It looks like the original sway bar on a standard 4 pot 240 would interfere with the oil pan but from what I have read I can source one from a 264 that is lower, stronger, and out of the way of the oil pan?
And finally the 240 has full disc brakes(correct?) so with a standard 283 they should have no trouble under standard driving.
 
You don’t need a drop front bar. That is an issue with a Ford swap, not with the SBC which is rear sump. Don’t weld the diff. Install a clutch posi or a G80 locker out of a 7-9 series.
 
The US market 740/940 was equipped with an Eaton G80 locker. The turbo cars got the G80 starting in 1991. The NA cars were fitted with G80s from 1993-1995. When you actually start working on a 240 these guys can talk you through the G80 install if you decide to go that route. They are cheap if you go pull one at a wrecking yard. About $100 or less. They will handle all your 283/Glide will put out.
 
The US market 740/940 was equipped with an Eaton G80 locker. The turbo cars got the G80 starting in 1991. The NA cars were fitted with G80s from 1993-1995. When you actually start working on a 240 these guys can talk you through the G80 install if you decide to go that route. They are cheap if you go pull one at a wrecking yard. About $100 or less. They will handle all your 283/Glide will put out.

Awesome good to know! I live in the PNW any suggestions on locating a 245? Im checking craigslist and struggling to find one under $1000 in the Washington/Oregon area. I know there have to be cheaper options. I dont even need one with a functional engine/ trans because it would just come out anyway.
 
also thoughts on driveshaft? strength wise can I take the original drive shaft and have it matched to the PG at a shop or do I need to get a GM one fitted?
The late drive shafts had the biggest U joints Same as most GM cars, at that time i didn't know that. The drive shaft in my car came out of a '62 Caddy[2 piece], had to cut it down some. 325k miles later I've only replaced 1 U joint.
 
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