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EV turbobrick - the turbobrick way?

Noob question: all the J1772 cables for home have some sort of device in the cable that has a readout, the J plug, and a male 3-prong plus ground.
Can it be a cable made with a J plug and whatever I have handy at home? Will i be doing a smoke test?

Are you wanting to hook a J-plug directly into your home wiring without a charge controller?

Confused.
 
Asking if it is possible to use straight cable since the car has a charge controller. I do not know what the device in the cable is. I am asking.

I had to look up how the Spark charger controller works.

Ok, so the onboard charger is only rated at 120V. You can plug that into any 120V setup, use an extension cord (if sized properly).

For higher current charging you'll need a dedicated charging station. This basically just controls the 240v and current going into the system and offers an automated way to turn off the charger.

You can buy a J1772 charge controller and TB your own 240v charger if you want. You just need a controller and a contactor. The vehicle side and the charger have to basically "hand shake" that they are there. Then the charging can happen. If the hand shake isn't there, no charge will be pushed, and no charge will be accepted. This keeps the contacts from either the car or the charger being "hot" when not in use.

https://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-plus-v4-universal-charging-station-controller

The cable can be whatever you want. It's just a ground, AC power, and a signal wire.
 
Cool, thanks. I read online but got a lot of returns for amazon no-name charge cables.

The no name charge cables are probably fine, they're very simple devices (the charge controllers).

If you wanted to buy a plug and slap on some bigger wire (or whatever) into the "charger", you totally can.
 
Ran across this link on another board, and thought it was a pretty cheap price for an 85 kW battery pack:
http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=TeslaBattModule

$1295. Apparently there's not a great market for used/salvage battery packs, as most manufacturers are offering generous warranties, no one is going to turn down a free new replacement battery from them vs. a used/junkyard battery pack.

The size isn't even all that crazy:
Dimensions:
Length 27 in / 685mm
Total width with mounting fins 11 13/16 in / 300mm
Height 3 in / 75mm
 
Ran across this link on another board, and thought it was a pretty cheap price for an 85 kW battery pack:
http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=TeslaBattModule

$1295. Apparently there's not a great market for used/salvage battery packs, as most manufacturers are offering generous warranties, no one is going to turn down a free new replacement battery from them vs. a used/junkyard battery pack.

The size isn't even all that crazy:

Thats only one module. 21v 5kwh.

A full tesla p100 pack at that price is north of $20K
 
Lol, uber derp on my part. I read the top part where it says 'Salvaged Tesla Model S 85kW lithium battery module'.
 
Lol, uber derp on my part. I read the top part where it says 'Salvaged Tesla Model S 85kW lithium battery module'.

Yeah, each module is set up of a sieries>parallel arrangement to get the most kwh/discharge rate. So depending on the EV conversion, you can additionally series or parrallel them for your needs.

A full tesla Model 3 75kwh pack is $22K

http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=model3pack

The model S has higher peak discharge due to configuration, and more kwh, but rarely do people sell them complete.
 
I bought the MC33035 chips hk 40 mentioned some pages ago. If anyone wants to build a controller around it, let me know. As you can see I have 5 of the old/EOL DIP and 5 of the SMD style.
 

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I bought the MC33035 chips hk 40 mentioned some pages ago. If anyone wants to build a controller around it, let me know. As you can see I have 5 of the old/EOL DIP and 5 of the SMD style.

U5IeATs.jpg


Hi Dalek,

Is this what you plan to do? Certainly it can control the motor in a 48 volt system like the gm parallel starter generator assembly shared here. Do you have real pictures of the stator and rotor assembly for it? The alternator assist wasn't a joke either. Is the GM motor SRM, IM, or PM How many poles and stator teeth is the design? Do you plan to integrate it with a simple mcu?

Regards,
Hubert
 
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If you look at the design of the sg rotor assembly it is very easy to see that an external rotor machine would also work simply by turning a bell in the made dimensions as GM's SG rotor and lining it with rare earth pm like so...

edFeLW4.png


Then you'd run the sg external rotor around a mounted stator similar to this. The shafts can easily fit through a plate with a boss to mount the stator too.​

This is all very doable through a sandwich of various plates and bell housing adapters for a machinist with the right equipment at hand. You could wind in the hybrid coil topology and attenuate even more unwanted harmonics associated with FSCW machines for even better efficiency and power factor with their improved fill possibilities.

IySByAO.png

Here is the harmonic content of a 18 tooth 24 pole external rotor as an example. Pretty good harmonically in a traditional FSCW however with the hybrid wind it would be even better.​

I guess also for such low quest in e assistance power you could just replace the series wound starter with the BLDC you can fit and have the same thing basically. Mechanically the SG assembly is obviously more stout a mount that two bolts a pinion and large spur off to the side . The idea of starter/generator isn't truly all that new. The generator on my 1954 bel air is nothing but a brushed dc motor. The pm-less design are catching up but still not at the level of power density of a pm machine. We've know since at least 2013 that China will monopolize the rare earth industry, hence all these pm less designs arrive. Afghanistan holds the lithium so it will never be a war free zone thanks to battery tech an smartphones..... Its alternative power but somehow in the future were still gonna pay a price and what do you do with all the spent battery materials. Maybe one day the cars will be powered by a microscopic nuclear fuel cell.

Regards
Hubert.
 
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Hi Dalek,

Is this what you plan to do? Certainly it can control the motor in a 48 volt system like the gm parallel starter generator assembly shared here. Do you have real pictures of the stator and rotor assembly for it? The alternator assist wasn't a joke either. Is the GM motor SRM, IM, or PM How many poles and stator teeth is the design? Do you plan to integrate it with a simple mcu?

Regards,
Hubert

This thread is about making an EV turbobrick in the turbobrick way. People talked about controlling motors. You suggested building around the chip and I decided to see how easy it was to get one. And I then decided to offer some of them to the people here who want to give it a try on building something around it. In fact, if the OP sends me his email I will send him a chip. Do I know which motor people will pick? Not at all. Think of it as my contribution to the quest.

What about me? I am not planning on building an Ev -- closest I would consider is a hybrid -- but I still can learn a bit in the process of people actually building something. I myself have a little (supposedly) 3 phase motor (only 3 wires, so there are things it can't do)
Z0m9a9m.jpg

which I may want to play with, as I can put the entire assembly -- motor + power source + protoboard (hence me getting some DIP ones) on a box without taking too much space. Once I get that to work I may try something a bit more complicated. But, this is not about me; it is about helping the OP (an other orangutans) building something interesting.

Until you actually cut your fingers open and zap your balls in the process of getting this to work, it is all mental masturbation.

UPDATE: my little motor may be AC. But, it is mine and I have it on my desk right now.
 

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This thread is about making an EV turbobrick in the turbobrick way. People talked about controlling motors. You suggested building around the chip and I decided to see how easy it was to get one. And I then decided to offer some of them to the people here who want to give it a try on building something around it. In fact, if the OP sends me his email I will send him a chip. Do I know which motor people will pick? Not at all. Think of it as my contribution to the quest.

What about me? I am not planning on building an Ev -- closest I would consider is a hybrid -- but I still can learn a bit in the process of people actually building something. I myself have a little (supposedly) 3 phase motor (only 3 wires, so there are things it can't do)
Z0m9a9m.jpg

which I may want to play with, as I can put the entire assembly -- motor + power source + protoboard (hence me getting some DIP ones) on a box without taking too much space. Once I get that to work I may try something a bit more complicated. But, this is not about me; it is about helping the OP (an other orangutans) building something interesting.

Until you actually cut your fingers open and zap your balls in the process of getting this to work, it is all mental masturbation.

UPDATE: my little motor may be AC. But, it is mine and I have it on my desk right now.

Dalek,
This u posted is truly a BLDC machine from a printer or something similar. If you were to run it in generator mode ud likely see it BEMF is not exactly sinus. It more than likely 8 pole in the ring magnet. You can improve its sinus with interspersed overlapped layers . The winds are still concentrated but different phases share teeth. You know no one here is interested in that chip but you. No one is going to engage any thought you may have with it but me. After enough 20000 batteries and accessories are posted maybe there will be interest. However I will engage it since I brought it here.


fgfG97x.jpg

In the meantime let me show you mental masturbation on my end.


Oy3cqyg.png

Here's the bemf it puts out. You see the triplen standing on top and bottom on the sinus? Nothing but heat brother and at high speed alot of iron loss....;-)

Its actually an 8 pole 12 stator arm. The winding factor is .86 with plenty of noise. This isnt exactly what a sinus drive wants to see. The IC will likely run more than just bldc because it uses a hall sensor. It probably wont do it efficiency but I bet it will drive it. You need to take constant measurements before you do anything else with it. BLDC Drives from zip drives printers are typically not on the high end of efficiency since a highly efficient BLDC machine isnt needed for a printer just something better than a brushed dc which even the worse BLDC probably is.

dWo1BjO.jpg


s1Zd44a.jpg


Here the same motor rewound by me in a parallel wye. The wind is still the conventional ABCABCABCABC. The harmonic noise is still present but maybe the printer motor can peak >5kW or so now due to better fill and a much lower resistance with 1.5mm conductors and parallel configuration.... It just came out of a printer 50 dollars... U see the additional weight of the mounting flange has been turned away. You can replace your ring magnets with small Neos of the optimal pole count for 9 arms and have a higher torque output and a better winding factor. Unless you have FEMM or some other analytic tool you can not really optimize the pm but you want a fair amount of magnet coverage and to at least maintain some semblance of the original airgap.

A true PMAC motor would never produce the BEMF illustrated here and running it with one will only create commutation ripple. The MC on the other hand would be fine as it isnt looking at zero cross for timing....​

Regards
Hubert
 
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I myself have a little (supposedly) 3 phase motor (only 3 wires, so there are things it can't do)
Z0m9a9m.jpg
That's a sensorless 3-phase motor. You want an ebay "brushless dc motor 3 phase hall", the hall sensor being the key difference. The hall sensors tell the motor controller chip what position the rotor is in so that the chip can drive the next phase correctly at low speeds. A sensorless chip steps through the phases blindly until it (hopefully) spins up the motor enough so that it's generating voltage on the un-driven pin (back EMF). It works OK if you never need to run efficiently at very low speeds.

Here's a similar small motor - flip through the pictures and there's one that shows the 3 hall sensors on the PCB 40deg apart:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173933567100

With your existing motor, you can still do a couple experiments:
1) spin it by hand, or cordless drill, and look at the generated voltages across the 3 pins with an oscilloscope -- a 3+ channel scope helps (with ground leads just clipped to each other, and not the motor), but a 2-channel scope will work (with grounds clipped to the 3rd motor wire).

2) put a paper disk on the shaft with a line on it and try to commutate the motor by hand -- I'd guess that a D-cell or 1.5v power supply is sufficient to get it to move. Connect power to one pair of wires at a time. To get it to move consistently in the right direction, you'll cycle through 2 polarities x 3 phases.
 
Dalek its a 3 phase BLDC and the only thing you need is a 3 tooth magnetic trigger wheel that fits on the shaft and 3 small halls switches. Thats all that is in a sensored version nothing special. Ill show you the simple piece when I get home it takes three hall sensor in actuality u see this in the notes. You can find There's really no sense to build a sensorless inverter because at these power levels you can order a drive for about 20 dollars. If you want to use the IC with this motor adding the trigger wheel to the shaft and setting up the hall switches is pretty simple. I figured you read the specs if you ordered it and are aware.


605-00005.png


FYI
A bosch seat motor has all the swap pieces you need to amend your BLDC to a sensored version. I show you these simple pieces when I get home later today. I have several of the small magnetic trigger wheels that would go on the shaft.

The hall can also be embedded directly in three arms of the stator teeth or slots and uses the rotors magnets for sense. There are several ways to easily accommodate this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BXH6GP8mPU
Here's a video on doing this simple thing and also notice the resemblance to the GM SG stator to his outrunner bell.

Don't forget to capture the motors constants before you do anything. U need to know its idle current, phase resistance, and rpm per volt constant. A pole reader would also help you determine the actual poles in the ring magnet. Its likely 8 but with the tool you'd know for sure. Weigh the rotor bell as well. Also measure the aspect ratio of the stator stacks dimensions. These will al be helpful with efficiency calculators down the road and goof for you to step up to this inverter challenge. Certainly you can do it if you try.
Regards
Hubert
 
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