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Old 02-02-2016, 12:20 PM   #26
Kjets On a Plane
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With all that money you are spending on bearings that don't really wear out you could probably just buy a nicer bearing separator!

Has many uses!

In actual practice, differential carriers are really made to the same offsets and dimensions. Recycling the shims/bearings and ring gear and throwing it in there I've always been fine.

I don't mixie-match ring gears though, that is ballsy.
I'd guess 1031 housing shims don't really vary that much knowing volvo, I should measure my pile of shims from stripping axles sometime.
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:20 PM   #27
wade454ss
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do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:27 PM   #28
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do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
I thought the same thing when I pulled apart my 1031... But the shims are BETWEEN the bearings and the carrier. They only come off when you pull the carrier bearings.
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:06 PM   #29
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^this.
Those bearings are a pretty tight interference fit generally. Takes a fair bit of pull/push to remove them.
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:34 PM   #30
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I have a more generic bearing separator that is thin enough to get in there and grab the shim/inner race. Putting the diff in the freezer and bearings in the toaster oven makes reinstall very easy. Keep the shim/bearing on the same side.
Do you have a pic/link of the model you use? I have a Truetrack install coming up and want to use a puller for these bearings, not the air chisel like last time
They have a very tight fit, feels like a lot of force is needed to remove them!
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:47 PM   #31
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I've been wanting to do this same, well similar swap to my 84 242. I have a rear end from a 940 with the g80 in it. but instead of swapping internals, I wanted to swap the whole unit. I want the extra 1/2" on either side it gives. But i havent seen/ heard anyone who has done this swap.
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
With all that money you are spending on bearings that don't really wear out you could probably just buy a nicer bearing separator!
Oh, tell me about it.

I picked up a beater South Bend lathe last summer, and I promised
myself that I would make a proper tool for pulling carrier
bearings.

Now winter is here, and my tires are on their last season, and
I'm just pissed off at the utter lack of traction, so I'm
swapping this one in the way I always have. New bearings aren't a
bad thing, except for the cost. And it's only fifty bucks. So far,
I've always done the swap on an old axle where new bearings
bring peace of mind.

The real burn was the second to last time, when I pinched a shim
and ruined a new bearing sorting that out. That sucked.

I'll make a tool by the time I can afford a Wavetrac, I promise.


Quote:
do all g80 have shims. I have removed 2 unit in the last yr. and I haven't seem one shim fall out. I've been very careful to make sure everything comes out????
The carrier shims certainly do not fall out. You need to pull the
bearings to remove them.
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:29 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Spoon4364 View Post
I've been wanting to do this same, well similar swap to my 84 242. I have a rear end from a 940 with the g80 in it. but instead of swapping internals, I wanted to swap the whole unit. I want the extra 1/2" on either side it gives. But i havent seen/ heard anyone who has done this swap.
You can, but you will need to cut off all the brackets from both
axles and weld the 240 brackets onto the 940 axle.

And then sort out the brakes, parking and regular.

Most people who go to that trouble, swap in something more
robust.

I made a nice grinder stand out of an old 940 axle...
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:41 PM   #34
Kjets On a Plane
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.

Last edited by Kjets On a Plane; 02-02-2016 at 02:55 PM..
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:50 PM   #35
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I'd just get the Finland or S.A.M. guts for the Dana LSD before buying a "wave-trac" or go find a ZF. I've only ever had 1 ZF LSD in over 10 years though. Drives so nice though.
I have one of those diffs. It has a broken cross-thingy. Maybe
worse, I haven't opened it up yet. The G80 is mint, it's clean,
and it is sitting on the bench ready to go. Just needs the weight
welded down.

I hear they like to break. On the other hand, I drive it like I
own it, mostly. Haven't broken the M46 yet.

[Knocks loudly on wood] The T5 swap is literally in baskets and
not nearly ready to go.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:15 PM   #36
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There's a couple of cutouts in the housing to get a 2 jaw puller under the bearing, but the jaws will damage the shims.

The Volvo tool pulls the bearing without damaging the bearing or the shims. I don't normally loan tools, but I have a spare one of these, so I'd consider it.

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Old 02-02-2016, 04:19 PM   #37
Kjets On a Plane
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^That's the one.

My 2-jaw the faces basically go all the way around the shims and are very thin and nearly flat. It might bend the shims very slightly, but the contact part of the shim stays flat when you press it back on, so I don't worry about it whatever. YMMV.

But if you use the correct tool obviously you can remove and reinstall.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:40 PM   #38
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The revs are pretty low on the carrier bearings. I've seen a damaged one here and there, and they do take some load, but it's rare to see damaged ones.
I would have thought so too, but the bearings on the locker I have don't look good. Somebody want to recommend a good source for new ones?
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Old 02-02-2016, 05:57 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by hiperfauto View Post
There's a couple of cutouts in the housing to get a 2 jaw puller under the bearing, but the jaws will damage the shims.

The Volvo tool pulls the bearing without damaging the bearing or the shims. I don't normally loan tools, but I have a spare one of these, so I'd consider it.

(img)
Thnx, yeah, I have been drooling over this tool for some time now, I can't seem to find one locally. Shipping it overseas is too much risk/$$ and Murphy follows me closely. Very clever design though, I like.
Does it grip the cones/rollers or the inner race? I expect the inner race but remember that there is very little clearance for that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjets On a Plane View Post
^That's the one.

My 2-jaw the faces basically go all the way around the shims and are very thin and nearly flat. It might bend the shims very slightly, but the contact part of the shim stays flat when you press it back on, so I don't worry about it whatever. YMMV.

But if you use the correct tool obviously you can remove and reinstall.
Thnx James, I have a spare diff/G80 so I can check beforehand if a puller has the right arms. I might try to make a puller on the lathe, seems like it is do-able in little time (simple 2 piece thingie loosely based on the Volvo one but less elegant).

Oh and nice to know that usually old carrier bearings are fine, usually. Saves another 100$ (expensive here)
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:39 PM   #40
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The puller actually grabs the cage for the rollers.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:20 AM   #41
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Last time I pulled bearings I used a hydraulic shop press.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:52 PM   #42
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... bearings.... Somebody want to recommend a good source for new ones?

.
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Old 02-04-2016, 12:23 AM   #43
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Rock Auto has good prices on Timken bearings, which are OE.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:57 PM   #44
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So, I took a few pictures while I swapped a G80 into a 1030 axle.

In Western Canada, when we jack up our cars to work on them, we
think of safety. Tires under the rockers, with some firewood on
top to take out the lash. Traffic delineator to prevent the
neighbours driving over my legs as they are splayed out into the
right of way. Jack handy in case the fire department has to lift
the car off of my chest. Compared to French Canadians, we are a
bunch of pussies:


Yep, that's an open diff.


I like to measure the existing backlash, in this case, the
backlash was about 0.0075", a little looser than spec. The
bearings had visible wear.


Disassemble the parking brakes, and pull out the half-shafts:


Pull the bearings to get the shims out:


Weld a little piece of 3/32" rod to the case, that holds down the
flyweight:


Swap the shims, press new bearings onto the G80:


The passenger side axle is too long, a 3/32" welding rod fits
loosely between the backing plate and the retainer:


Carefully and slowly trim off 1/8" from the passenger side
half-shaft with a zip disk, taking care to not overheat the
metal:


Wait a minute, why am I using turbobricks tricks on this...


The axle shaft just fits in the lathe, just. Cutting by hand, you
can feel the case hardening. I used a homemade toolpost grinder to
put a nice bevel on the splines:


Hammer that sucker back into the pumpkin, and check the backlash:


It came out just over 0.005", within spec. I fit the fancy 940
alloy cover. Maybe I'll hook up the VR sensor to my computer some
day for a VSS signal.

Just put it all back together, add some oil, and you are done.
Piece of cake.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:35 AM   #45
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Default Diff Cover Options

Reviving an admittedly old thread here. Finishing up my first G80 swap and have been reading through dozens of posts and threads on the topic.

I'm still unclear on what diff cover should be used. It's a G80, 1031, '89. Tone ring modified to "12". I'm unclear on whether or not the aluminum cover is a must (seems it is) and on whether I need the "earlier late" sender or the "late late" sender. Also just learned there are two aluminum covers? And that determines which later sender? Or does the earlier of the two aluminum covers take my old 240 sender? Any clarification will be appreciated.
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Old 10-30-2020, 06:39 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by DavidSamuels View Post
Reviving an admittedly old thread here. Finishing up my first G80 swap and have been reading through dozens of posts and threads on the topic.

I'm still unclear on what diff cover should be used. It's a G80, 1031, '89. Tone ring modified to "12". I'm unclear on whether or not the aluminum cover is a must (seems it is) and on whether I need the "earlier late" sender or the "late late" sender. Also just learned there are two aluminum covers? And that determines which later sender? Or does the earlier of the two aluminum covers take my old 240 sender? Any clarification will be appreciated.
Hi, I did a g 80 swap in my 92 wagon from a 940. I got the whole bearing set and the cover as well. Both aluminum covers were the same. I believe it will work for you. I didn t have to use mine cause i went gps digital speedo. Good luck
DZ
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:11 PM   #47
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Nobody ever noticed that last pic is upside-down?
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Old 10-31-2020, 09:37 PM   #48
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Nobody ever noticed that last pic is upside-down?
Life's too short to worry about such things.
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Old 11-01-2020, 02:50 AM   #49
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Does the GM G80 stuff work on our Volvo stuff?
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Old 11-15-2020, 02:39 PM   #50
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I swapped in a G80 to my '86 240, cut down the 48t ring to 12 and used the aluminum cover with speedo sensor that mounts with an allen bolt- problem is that sensor has two pickups. My speedo has been bouncing ever since and I'd like to correct it. I have the old steel diff cover and pickup if that is the only answer.
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