• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Cossie T3

Fair enough. The seller said he would get the cracks repaired as he works for Roots Systems, who have manufactured superchargers for donkeys years (think Blower Bentleys of the 1920's), so he'll give it to the supercharger fabrication shop and their machinist and have all the cracks sorted out for free. Can't fault that really.
 
TCornish said:
Plus, anyone know the correct length of M10 x 1.25 studs to mount the T3? The seller has access to high temperature studs at work, so all I need to tell him is the length. Thanks.
Click to expand...

IMG_20160327_172756.jpg


The studs I used are M10x40. You could get away with 35mm long ones too but I prefer to use washers and to tighten the studs in the mani till they bind (M10 thread in the mani not all the way through). Did use normal M10 with 1,5mm pitch though but that makes no difference for the length.

IMG_20160327_172832.jpg


Feels right at home. Cooling lines work good too, slightly tweaked and enlarged for M18 banjo bolts.
btw, POR15 hi temp paint is great, this is the paint after 50Kkm. Could have been better if I had baked the painted part in the oven like the manual suggests.
 
JW240 said:
IMG_20160327_172756.jpg


The studs I used are M10x40. You could get away with 35mm long ones too but I prefer to use washers and to tighten the studs in the mani till they bind (M10 thread in the mani not all the way through). Did use normal M10 with 1,5mm pitch though but that makes no difference for the length.

IMG_20160327_172832.jpg


Feels right at home. Cooling lines work good too, slightly tweaked and enlarged for M18 banjo bolts.
btw, POR15 hi temp paint is great, this is the paint after 50Kkm. Could have been better if I had baked the painted part in the oven like the manual suggests.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I've asked for M10x40 high temperature studs if he has any in the stores. What do you mean not M10 all the way through? How did the water cooling lines work out for you, I assume you used the Volvo ones? I'm trying to think where they take the coolant from and drain it.
 
What i meant but didnt find the words for this afternoon was that i didn't cut the thread all the way through the flange. When that is done, the studs can be threaded into the flange till they fall out on the other side, or hit a runner. Obviously :-P. So i stopped maybe one revolution before the tap would have cut the thread to the correct size all the way through.

I do remember that the original m8 studs were easy to remove, they looked like new. Drilling them out is a last resort, although not that hard with a proper drill press.

Cooling lines are volvo 740/760 turbo ones yeah. Also the rubber hoses, so one side of the turbo water lines goes to the expansion tank hose, other side to lower radiator hose. I think i had to bend one hard line slightly to clear the wg actuator bracket. I modified the one from that non volvo cossie style t3 which had a bracket made from flat sheetmetal. Bentley used them too :cool:
 
Sure thing, I'll see what parts I can find to do it. I'll have a shop drill out the studs to M10, then fit M10x40 studs to the depth the M8 ones were in, and cut off any excess.

I have picked up an A cam in my travels. Keep the T cam, or use the A? DD remember. I'll be using a B21FT T3 bracket.
 
Last edited:
TCornish said:
I'll stick the T cam in, just for now. Been offered a set of T5 blue injectors, tempting. Or stick with Cosworth blue/dark green?
Click to expand...

Frod Crossways Blue and yellow--appropriately enough for use in a Dwedish car---are same and allegedly "good" for 275ish..

Bosch 803 Greens are allegedly good up to a real 330...

But remember to double and recommendation you see in Europe or better said member to halve any US recommendation..All merikuns think the eisspritzers spritz ein only once every 720 degrees...
While foolish furriners who built the cars and the ECUs are all fools cause they think einspritzers spritz ein zwei mal pro 720 degrees.

So depends on the ein mal oder wass mal.

Remember what you say when the S?ssi you met in the bier stube in Berlin that time when she's winkin' at you and giggling ''Noch S?ssi, einaml ist kein mal'':oogle:
Then we fade to black....:oops:
 
EMS will be of course LH2.4 but I have the gold EZK so I have the chippable box, will order a chip from a chap over here in the UK and some spares as there's a local dyno to me who's a dab hand at tuning custom maps. If that's possible, that is.

Cheers John - I'll have a gander onto PassionFord and see what I can pick up. ME7 blues or Cossie greens have been recommended, or VXR injectors. Still a DD to say the least, so may go Cosworth yellow/blue or ME7 blues. I'll Google the cc's..
 
TCornish said:
EMS will be of course LH2.4 but I have the gold EZK so I have the chippable box, will order a chip from a chap over here in the UK and some spares as there's a local dyno to me who's a dab hand at tuning custom maps. If that's possible, that is.

Cheers John - I'll have a gander onto PassionFord and see what I can pick up. ME7 blues or Cossie greens have been recommended, or VXR injectors. Still a DD to say the least, so may go Cosworth yellow/blue or ME7 blues. I'll Google the cc's..
Click to expand...


Bugga that I gottem right here in my phone book:
Yellow/Blue Weber Marelli............311cc/min....in the rest of the world good for 270
Bosch 803 Green.......................382cc/min....in the rest of the world good for 320
Bosch 0280 xxxxx lt. Blue............437cc/min....in the rest of the world good for 370
Bosch 0280 xxxx Greys..............503c/min ....in the rest of the world good for 420


in America for a measly 275 you "need" 550cc/min..

Bore wash down doesn't happen in Merikuh, eh?
 
TCornish said:
Been offered a TB3403. Worth it? Probably a bit overkill perhaps. Comp housing has the cast in actuator bracket.
Click to expand...

A stock TB0340 which came off the first 2500 Escort Cossies comes wif a .63 a/r turbine housing..

It should be noted that stock the "big turbo" Escort cos was the slowest (except the stock RS500 with the even bigger T4) in acceleration...

But I'd grab it if it's not tooooooooooooooooo dear. and then sell it to me!

Or scrounge up a .48 a/r turbine housing, and sell the .63 for monies and profit.
That combo gets you a hard hitting turbo that flow air enough for 330+ hp at a nice safe turbine shaft speed

What sorta price you looking at?
 
John V said:
A stock TB0340 which came off the first 2500 Escort Cossies comes wif a .63 a/r turbine housing..

It should be noted that stock the "big turbo" Escort cos was the slowest (except the stock RS500 with the even bigger T4) in acceleration...

But I'd grab it if it's not tooooooooooooooooo dear. and then sell it to me!

Or scrounge up a .48 a/r turbine housing, and sell the .63 for monies and profit.
That combo gets you a hard hitting turbo that flow air enough for 330+ hp at a nice safe turbine shaft speed

What sorta price you looking at?
Click to expand...

I'm currently the highest bidder, at ?56. But it's bound to go up of course. I have a contact who has four/five TB0384's with different housings but he's not bothering to reply, even with money shaken at him saying I want one of your turbos.

The chap had it on his Sierra Cos but I've asked for the in/exduser measurements, unfortunately it's got the 4x4 housing on it though, which is nice.
 
A friend of mine just bought a .63 housing for 60 ish quid. They're mostly around on Ebay UK I've found. I'd be interested to see what the T3403 with the .48 housing is like. It'll be a tight squeeze on the 90+ in the 240's engine bay for sure. I have brake lines that side and I have seen a few photos of T34's in 240 engine bays on a 90+ and it's tight.
 
Last edited:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top