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U-Joint Question

S

stev

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2022
Location
Orange, CA
Probably a stupid question but are all U-Joints the same for drive shaft linkage? My car ever since I bought it has had this violent vibration when under acceleration at the 1000-2000 rpm range. But since my car was swapped to a T5 trans and has a custom drive shaft, I have no clue what kind of U-Joint to buy. It still has the stock 1030.
 
Nope.

I was very surprised when I asked for an U joint at the parts counter for a 1971 145 and the guy handed me a 1310 which fit exactly.

I would have thought between imperial/metric and Swedish that joints would be hard to match but apparently they are universal world wide.

My V8 Volvo got 1350 from the Ford transmission to a 1330 drive shaft. Conversions like that are made.
 
Last edited:
TestPoint said:
Nope.

I was very surprised when I asked for an U joint at the parts counter for a 1971 145 and the guy handed me a 1310 which fit exactly.

I would have thought between imperial/metric and Swedish that joints would be hard to match but apparently they are universal world wide.

My V8 Volvo got 1350 from the Ford transmission to a 1330 drive shaft. Conversions like that are made.
Click to expand...

so these would work for different sizes:
1310: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Spicer-...SA==&sprefix=1310+u+joint,aps,152&sr=8-3&th=1

1330: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/5-1330X...9272&sprefix=1330+u+joint,aps,128&sr=8-3&th=1

1350: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/spicer-...SA==&sprefix=1350+u+joint,aps,127&sr=8-3&th=1
 
VolvoLatAm said:
did you go with greaseable or nongreaseable?
Click to expand...

If greaseable is available and you are willing to take a grease gun and regrease them occasionally (once per oil change perhaps?), I don't see any reason not to get them. They'll last longer.

Amazon's usually kind of expensive for car parts (at least in the US), might want to check your local parts store if possible to see if they have a better deal.
 
I've used both but really do not have any preference. U-joints last 100k + miles usually.

Careful with the grease gun . . . or you will add an additional undercoat layer.

Ebay has better autoparts prices.

Your Amazon links took me to Spanish language sites that then translated to English. Now any connection to Amazon takes me to a Spanish language version first. Haven't figured out how to fix that.
 
TestPoint said:
Your Amazon links took me to Spanish language sites that then translated to English. Now any connection to Amazon takes me to a Spanish language version first. Haven't figured out how to fix that.
Click to expand...

Right hand side of the search bar there should be an American flag, click the little drop down arrow next to it and select "English"
 
TestPoint said:
Your Amazon links took me to Spanish language sites that then translated to English. Now any connection to Amazon takes me to a Spanish language version first. Haven't figured out how to fix that.
Click to expand...

For a while Amazon had decided my default currency was Indian Rupees. I used their chat to ask why did that happen. In typical Amazon fashion they told me how to change it back. I then said that is the right answer to a different question than mine, to which they replied I must have changed it. When asked when that changed was made they could not provide that, claiming they, Amazon, kept no records. :wtf: So I stopped using them until almost two years later when it automagically fixed itself.
 
Before you start throwing parts at it, just take the driveshaft off and see how the u-joints feel when you move them around. If they're not loose and aren't stiff or notchy feeling, that's probably not your problem.

FWIW when I had a T5 behind a redblock, I'd get pretty bad vibrations at lower rpms in higher gears as well. It wasn't the u-joints. It wasn't the pinion angle (I had adjustable torque rods and chased that all around, and nothing made a difference, either being set as incorrectly as possible, or set as close to absolute perfection using and angle finder as possible). The vibrations only went away when I took off the adjustable torque rods and put the stock torque rods back on, the difference being the poly bushings in the adjustables and the squishy rubber in the stocks.

Compounding issues witht he drivetrain vibrations could also have ben related to the lightweight non-harmonic front pulley and the lightweight (16-is lbs) billet flywheel?
 
My vibration occurs when accelerating from 1000-1500 rpm in any gear, it goes away when I push the clutch in or go above 1500. but when cruising in that rpm range it tends to not vibrate.
 
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