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how do you scan for codes?

Sorry, a '87 is a LH2.2 ECU - no diag codes, not even a check engine light. 89+ changes to a LH2.4 ECU and EZ116K Ignition computer, with simple diag codes (which may or may not be helpful).

For diagnosis, you can post here describing the symptoms. Hopefully, it's a well known issue and easy to fix directly. If not, it may take a while to diagnose the problem. In general, I'd suggest not blindly swapping parts since it can cause other issues to show up too.
 
So i'm doing it right, then. You guys have been a great help.

I've never been a blindly swapping parts kind of guy. But, when all else fails, I find the cheapest part that could cause the problem and replace it, then the next etc.

I'm not opposed to re engineering things to make the vehicle go down the road.
We're talking bailing wire and Dixie cups.

Thanks again
 
Update/warning: Never mind about this. I just figured out from Barton's site that 87 240s used a Chrysler ignition. The pinout does not show a test lead of any kind. That's pretty harsh. I guess a multimeter is your diagnostic unit. If there is anything in your ignition system that looks like this, you still probably shouldn't hook up the tool described here. I'll still leave it up for those with LH 2.2/EZK cars who haven't made one of these yet.

Actually, you have a chance to make yourself a tool here. The instructions are for the PRV engine, but it might work on your 240 since it also uses LH 2.2. Check this out (tool construction guide).
And then check this out (list of possible codes and how to retrieve them). It seems that you might get a different set of 5 or 6 codes depending on your car's EZK version.
LH 2.2's error handling is primitive. There are only 6 possible codes, indicated by the number of blinks. And one of the codes is described as "not used", so there are only 5 different error conditions it can detect. But it should at least reduce the number of things you have to backprobe. Plus it's always rewarding to stick another handmade Special Tool in the toolbox. You can even make it look nice by shrinkwrapping the bare metal legs under the LED and resistor and then shrinkwrapping those two tubes.
If you try it, let us know if it works.
 
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iamrolling said:
Update/warning: Never mind about this. I just figured out from Barton's site that 87 240s used a Chrysler ignition. The pinout does not show a test lead of any kind. That's pretty harsh. I guess a multimeter is your diagnostic unit. If there is anything in your ignition system that looks like this, you still probably shouldn't hook up the tool described here. I'll still leave it up for those with LH 2.2/EZK cars who haven't made one of these yet.

Actually, you have a chance to make yourself a tool here. The instructions are for the PRV engine, but it might work on your 240 since it also uses LH 2.2. Check this out (tool construction guide).
And then check this out (list of possible codes and how to retrieve them). It seems that you might get a different set of 5 or 6 codes depending on your car's EZK version.
LH 2.2's error handling is primitive. There are only 6 possible codes, indicated by the number of blinks. And one of the codes is described as "not used", so there are only 5 different error conditions it can detect. But it should at least reduce the number of things you have to backprobe. Plus it's always rewarding to stick another handmade Special Tool in the toolbox. You can even make it look nice by shrinkwrapping the bare metal legs under the LED and resistor and then shrinkwrapping those two tubes.
If you try it, let us know if it works.
Click to expand...
Thanks I'm printing out the sheets.
 
Diagnostic: Miss at low rpm smooths out at higher. No tick thru stethoscope on #2 at low and high rpm.
I decided to go ahead and get all new injectors since they have not been replaced in 30 + yrs.
I just replaced ECU because it failed the fuel pump check.
I'm waiting on the injectors.

I saw mention of mustang injectors. Any good reason to consider them?
 
Call me crazy but I think 99.9% of crappy idles on LH2.2 240s can be attributed to the junk Chrysler ignition box. They are hit or miss. I've seen them idle okay, I've seen them idle like crap.

Of course, it's important to fix all vacuum leaks as the 2.2 system is pretty sensitive to leaks. Also, make sure the base mixture is within spec (AMM adjustment).
 
iHateVolvoPeople said:
Call me crazy but I think 99.9% of crappy idles on LH2.2 240s can be attributed to the junk Chrysler ignition box. They are hit or miss. I've seen them idle okay, I've seen them idle like crap.

Of course, it's important to fix all vacuum leaks as the 2.2 system is pretty sensitive to leaks. Also, make sure the base mixture is within spec (AMM adjustment).
Click to expand...

Is the Bosch 280000544 Jetronic, a Chrysler ignition box?

Also. What vacuums can I disconnect at the throttle body and intake without hurting performance?
Where I live an 87 Volvo has no emissions requirements.

How much timing can I advance with E85 fuel?

Thanks
 
The Jetronic is a fuel computer. There's a separate ignition computer. I don't know where the Chrysler ignition computer is kept, but on my 940 with Bosch EZK ignition, it's behind the dash on the driver side.
As for deleting vacuum components, you can get rid of the charcoal canister and plug up the ports. I don't know if 240s had cruise control, but if it does you can gut that too. The rest I would leave alone. Maybe you could remove the flame trap system and put little air filters on the nipples, but it would be cheaper just to buy the flame trap consumables when needed.
 
Don't run e85. You'd need roughly 30% more fuel with E and you are not tuned for that.

If you have 91/93 octane, you can bump timing at least a few degrees over stock. But one thing at a time!
 
Don't disconnect the evap lines from the tbody. It burns raw fuel fumes. Raw fuel fumes create a lot of smog. It doesn't hurt performance.
 
ZVOLV said:
Don't disconnect the evap lines from the tbody. It burns raw fuel fumes. Raw fuel fumes create a lot of smog. It doesn't hurt performance.
Click to expand...
It hurts fuel economy when it fails though, which is the only real reason I can think of to disconnect it. I was getting something like 12 mpg when that happened to me. But you can cut it in half, dump it out, put in new activated charcoal and make some new foam filters, and epoxy it back together for under $30. Or buy a new one for a little more than that. I just wanted to make the point that the vacuum lines on these cars are about as reasonably small in number and length as they can get. It would be better for performance to just buy a complete new set every few years than to go looking for things to chop off. and you can easily do that for about $30 too.
 
iamrolling said:
It hurts fuel economy when it fails though, which is the only real reason I can think of to disconnect it. I was getting something like 12 mpg when that happened to me. But you can cut it in half, dump it out, put in new activated charcoal and make some new foam filters, and epoxy it back together for under $30. Or buy a new one for a little more than that. I just wanted to make the point that the vacuum lines on these cars are about as reasonably small in number and length as they can get. It would be better for performance to just buy a complete new set every few years than to go looking for things to chop off. and you can easily do that for about $30 too.
Click to expand...

how does it fail and
hurt fuel economy?

in any case, don't delete the emissions stuff,, your non emission locale uses the same air as everybody else.
 
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