Texas Old Fart
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- Apr 19, 2020
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- Huntington, TX
Is there a port for odb1 scanner on the 1987 240 series? if so, where?
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Thanks I'm printing out the sheets.Update/warning: Never mind about this. I just figured out from Barton's site that 87 240s used a Chrysler ignition. The pinout does not show a test lead of any kind. That's pretty harsh. I guess a multimeter is your diagnostic unit. If there is anything in your ignition system that looks like this, you still probably shouldn't hook up the tool described here. I'll still leave it up for those with LH 2.2/EZK cars who haven't made one of these yet.
Actually, you have a chance to make yourself a tool here. The instructions are for the PRV engine, but it might work on your 240 since it also uses LH 2.2. Check this out (tool construction guide).
And then check this out (list of possible codes and how to retrieve them). It seems that you might get a different set of 5 or 6 codes depending on your car's EZK version.
LH 2.2's error handling is primitive. There are only 6 possible codes, indicated by the number of blinks. And one of the codes is described as "not used", so there are only 5 different error conditions it can detect. But it should at least reduce the number of things you have to backprobe. Plus it's always rewarding to stick another handmade Special Tool in the toolbox. You can even make it look nice by shrinkwrapping the bare metal legs under the LED and resistor and then shrinkwrapping those two tubes.
If you try it, let us know if it works.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/
While this is for the 7/9 series cars, it is an incredible diagnostic resource for your car.
LH 2.2 is extremely reliable once tuned up, you're in good shape.
If you can't figure it out we can help!
Call me crazy but I think 99.9% of crappy idles on LH2.2 240s can be attributed to the junk Chrysler ignition box. They are hit or miss. I've seen them idle okay, I've seen them idle like crap.
Of course, it's important to fix all vacuum leaks as the 2.2 system is pretty sensitive to leaks. Also, make sure the base mixture is within spec (AMM adjustment).
It hurts fuel economy when it fails though, which is the only real reason I can think of to disconnect it. I was getting something like 12 mpg when that happened to me. But you can cut it in half, dump it out, put in new activated charcoal and make some new foam filters, and epoxy it back together for under $30. Or buy a new one for a little more than that. I just wanted to make the point that the vacuum lines on these cars are about as reasonably small in number and length as they can get. It would be better for performance to just buy a complete new set every few years than to go looking for things to chop off. and you can easily do that for about $30 too.Don't disconnect the evap lines from the tbody. It burns raw fuel fumes. Raw fuel fumes create a lot of smog. It doesn't hurt performance.
It hurts fuel economy when it fails though, which is the only real reason I can think of to disconnect it. I was getting something like 12 mpg when that happened to me. But you can cut it in half, dump it out, put in new activated charcoal and make some new foam filters, and epoxy it back together for under $30. Or buy a new one for a little more than that. I just wanted to make the point that the vacuum lines on these cars are about as reasonably small in number and length as they can get. It would be better for performance to just buy a complete new set every few years than to go looking for things to chop off. and you can easily do that for about $30 too.
Forgetting to take it off before removing the radiator.how does it fail and
hurt fuel economy?