• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Stock 740 radiator - all metal

rb92673

racecar
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Location
San Clemente
Is there a source for all metal stock radiators anymore? It looks like all I can find have plastic end caps.

Right before the great server crash of 2022, we raced our '85 745T at Willow Springs. Our radiator developed two leaks which we fixed with JBWeld to finish the weekend. I believe it is the original stock radiator with metal side caps. This radiator has been rock solid for 5 years of racing, always staying between 180-190 degrees. I am worried a Nissens with plastic end tanks will fail.

I am not super excited about spending 300-400 for a do88 and I don't really want to do much fabrication. Whatever I choose, it needs to have a fan switch and a way to mount my existing electrical fan.

I was looking at the NISSENS 65544A. Am I worried needlessly?
 
While I?m not racing I?ve had the cheapest oreillys plastic cap radiator available in my 242 for nearly two Arizona summers without issues. As long as you?re not overheating it it shouldn?t be an issue.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/520...MIusSI89nd9wIVusDCBB3ASA_vEAQYAiABEgLImvD_BwE

This radiator is an inch wider but you can look for universal radiators about the same size from jegs, summit and such and gonna be cheaper than something sold specifically for a Volvo
 
Might try a radiator repair shop if you want to keep the metal end tanks, either that or a few PnP runs
 
Thanks for the suggestions.

While I?m not racing I?ve had the cheapest oreillys plastic cap radiator available in my 242 for nearly two Arizona summers without issues. As long as you?re not overheating it it shouldn?t be an issue.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/520...MIusSI89nd9wIVusDCBB3ASA_vEAQYAiABEgLImvD_BwE

This radiator is an inch wider but you can look for universal radiators about the same size from jegs, summit and such and gonna be cheaper than something sold specifically for a Volvo

Thanks for sharing your experience. I understand how f'n hot it get in AZ in the Summer. If I do go the aluminum route, I would probably just go with the do88.

Might try a radiator repair shop if you want to keep the metal end tanks, either that or a few PnP runs

I asked around, nothing near me. Was told the last one in the area closed when the old guy died of lead poisoning.

Post in wanted for a Nissens 3 row and find your wallet.

Is the 3 row all metal?
 
You'll probably have a difficult time finding a decent rad repair shop in CA due to enviro crap. I had the same thought as you...

In my experience, the Nissens plastic end tank rads are meh..... I daily'd one for a few years, then one day it decided to internally rupture the trans cooler. It let coolant mix with ATF, but only in the tranny cooler. Never saw milkshake it in the coolant res. Filled the tranny with strawberry shake.... Rad never leaked externally and cooled the motor effectively, but was a bleh part that forced me to get a new tranny. Such a headache just thinking bout it..
 
There are also all aluminum radiators for sale on ebay. I can't vouch for them since I haven't bought one. I personally use the Nissens plastic end tank radiators without issue for over 20 years and multiple radiators. They have a screw in fan sensor so it can't just pop out like the Volvo sensor can.
 
I need to bring the car home and pull it out of the trailer to see what I actually have. Not sure if it is the stock or perhaps it is a 3 row. How do you tell if it's a 2 or 3 row?
 
The core will fill out the width of the header/end tanks. On the 2 row there is a flat area on the header where no core is present. Also, you can look through one of the inlet/outlets and count the tubes. 2 lined up or 3 lined up one behind the other in the direction of air flow over the outside of the tubes.
 
I have not been able to pull the radiator, but measuring it in my trailer it looks to be about 22" x 17" x 2". The 2" width is from cooling fin to fin, its about 2.25" wide altogether. Seems a lot wider than my team mates stock radiator that looks to be about 1.5" from the edge of fins.

Do I have a three row already?
 
that's probably less than a good re-core would cost. My buddy paid $700 locally on a re-core for his Range Rover
That's about what I was quoted for a tiny little Japanese daily driver.

The guy saw my eyes widen, and said, "yea, I know. We can't get reasonably priced core material anymore. The only owners who still want us to rebuild old brass radiators are those preparing for concours judging."
 
You could put the 1992+ 740/940/960 radiator in there. It is wider and taller. You would have to change mounts, oil cooler location, plastic baffles, etc.
 
Last edited:
You could put the 1992+ 740/940/960 radiator in there. It is wider and taller. You would have to change mounts, oil cooler location, plastic baffles, etc.

I thought about that. I ordered a Nissens to see how that fits and cools. Buttonwillow race is our next race in October, that race is usually a good test of cooling capabilities. I do have my existing JB welded radiator as a backup.
 
Well the NISSENS 65520A radiator kept the water temp at a solid 180-185 degrees in 95+ degree heat while racing. It would get into the low 200s when idling because I don't think the fan switch it came with would turn on until 195. So I wired the fan to be always on for the weekend. I need to find a lower temp fan switch.
 
I have a SAAB T and 77-82 temp switch that can be installed in the lower hose that you can also use as your radiator drain if you play your cards right since Volvo didn?t give you a rad drain on the -?91 models.

Bonus: with low fluid level light in cluster it?ll warn you but still work if mounted low if there?s some coolant missing to prevent catastrophe?

Or screw said switch into passenger radiator end tank if there?s such a provision but no low fluid warning + fan temp switch fail safe & quick cooling system drain if facing downward?
 
I just need to pull the switch out of the radiator and find one that closes the circuit at a lower temperature. I also have a coolant tank from a later model with a level switch. Not having a drain is a pain and I should be draining it on a regular basis as our rules state water only, no antifreeze or water wetter.

We did have a loose radiator cap in practice, but the huge temp light that goes on at 210 degrees I put on the dash saved us from overheating.
 
Back
Top