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More torque under 3000RPM?

D

Dirty Rooster

New member
Joined
Mar 3, 2008
Location
Northumbria
This might be slightly confusing to a lot of folk ;
I have a stock 2.0 LPTurbo 940 and actually like the easy power/torque under 3000 revs,
not much interested in max power at 4000, 5000 at all,
so which of the common mods are inapplicable to under-3000 rev torque?
and which mods may have an effect in the measly 2000-3000 rev range.
I am assuming my cam is the standard turbo one (what's the letter?)
 
t cam and adjustable cam gear advanced 4 or 6 degrees.....


L cam


regear your rear end to a 4.10

raise compression by shaving block or head,

advance timing and use high octane gas

what turbo are you using?
 
A mechanical boost controller will help too. It will keep the wastegate from creeping open before it should be.
 
T cam and get a 4x4 Cosworth Turbo and downpipe on 'he and then give 'her some wellie, she'll go.
The yack around here is so consonantly about "That cam is sheet mon, no power above 6000" that its silly.

The t cam and T3 with decent compressor side but for sure Cossie turbine housing---and best way to do that is get the whole turbo---is such a good package you'll probably start thinking of taller gearing..
 
Thanks for the replies.
240240 said:
t cam and adjustable cam gear advanced 4 or 6 degrees....
advance timing and use high octane gas
what turbo are you using?
Click to expand...
Adjustale cam gear will do what? Are they those shiny blue ones everybody sticks on their souped up rides?
Already using decent Shell V-power petrol, until they change the name again.
Turbo is stock 13c

Canadan said:
A mechanical boost controller will help too. It will keep the wastegate from creeping open before it should be.
Click to expand...
I assumed my wastegate would be completely shut, even in stock configuration, at 3000 revs, no matter how open the throttle. How would I check that during a test drive?

Redwood Chair said:
Make it breathe better.
Click to expand...
Which aspects of the breathing can give me more torgue at nowhere near maximum flow?
 
Dirty Rooster said:
I assumed my wastegate would be completely shut, even in stock configuration, at 3000 revs, no matter how open the throttle. How would I check that during a test drive?
Click to expand...

It's not. The wastegate isnt an on off ordeal its a diaphram that opens slowly with boost. It's open a bit as soon as theres positive pressure in the line. Only way to keep it shut when its building boost is a wastegate of sorts.
 
So MBC is on the list, and they're really cheap so no real investment.
How about enlarging the airbox inlet hose thingy. I've seen plenty of airbox mods (keeping the thing) but most of them are really ropey and don't look like they flow right.

Edit: I've just removed the airbox for the first time. I'm shocked to find my car breathing through a foam-ringed 44mm diam (1&3/4") hole to literally a flap/slit in the wing.
High-pressure area or not, its so dirty and restricted!
I can't bear to put this back onto the car unmodded...
 
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Make sure you get a ball and spring type not bleeder style. Anyways yeah gut the intake box for now. It's not bad after its empty many say its good to 300hp. That goes along with whoever said let it breathe better. A bigger downpipe would help too
 
Drill a large hole in the front of your airbox and remove the round metal disc in front of the airbox and you get a lot of cold air into your airbox. It really improves throttle response. You can make a RAM-air intake by simply guiding a hose from the airbox, through the hole to the grill or airdam. Go wild and add an air velocity stack at the end.

Remove the second AMM screen and gain 1 hp.

Add an MBC for faster spool up.
A bigger throttle body improves the throttle respons (more air @ same throttle position)
Bigger downpipe, less restrictive exhaust, no cat, for faster spool times
More efficient intercooler
5 angle valve job
Wasted spark mod (better ignition)
Increase capacity and/or compression (B230E shortblock)
Lightweight flywheel

A performance chip alone can make a big difference!
 
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The standard airbox actually flows quite well, but if you want to have a play then remove the foam in the top and cut a little hole in the lower part.







Then shim the wastegate actuator using 1-3 M8 washers, be careful doing this.



3? of timing advance can be introduced by grounding pins 18 and 19 at the EZK. Not tried this yet.
EZK Selector Pins

You could pull the roll pin out the end of the cam and advance it a few degrees by eye. Or pay ?150 for a fancy aluminium one.

Stage 0.

Supercharger.
 
baggins798 said:
Then shim the wastegate actuator using 1-3 M8 washers, be careful doing this..
Click to expand...
OK link?!

Be careful doing it, or be careful with boost/revs afterwards?

Edit : "Little hole" muhahahaha
baggins798 said:
... and cut a little hole in the lower part.
.
Click to expand...
Actually I have considered a serious mod to the lower airbox, but to my eyes the restrictive section is that top airbox funnelling into the MAF : I may create a smoother broader flow which looks like the stock top from ... the top...
 
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Stock airbox flows well when gutted. It also keeps your air clean and free of sand, grit, water by way of where it pulls air from. Do it and see the dif.

Your exhaust is a restriction. Consider sorting that out

A bigger cam, advanced, will help with low end power.

Keep all your ignition components up to date.

Get a MBC using ball and spring. Try 12psi.

Report back.
 
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