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volvo 140 blinkers

1968 volvo

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 29, 2021
Location
Santa Rosa California
M40 problems

I am having an issue with my blinkers. they all go on at the same time regardless of which direction I input. someone said that most likely my blinkers weren't grounding properly. I tested this by grounding out both the front blinkers with no results. I have yet to test the rears but I don't even see how a bad ground could even show itself in a symptom like that. Is it possibly the metal cylinder on the back of the warning flashers that clicks when I turn on the blinkers? There was an extra blinker clicker lying in the trunk of my car when I got it that I put in to test and all it did was turn on the blinker light on the instrument panel. Also it this the part that I would need to replace?
https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar/flasher-unit-amazon_1800_140_164.html
The picture doesn't show me the bottom of the unit so I can only see two prongs but the unit I have has three prongs.

If you are confused by the title of the tread not lining up with the first bit of conversation, please just go down a bit and it should hopefully make sense.
 
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The part is actually called a flasher relay.
I would suspect that is the problem as well.

Since you have an extra, why not take it apart and try to fix it? You've got nothing to lose.
IIRC, it's only crimped together.
You may find it's contacts just need to be cleaned.
 
https://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/articles/2.14443.45195/flasher-relay-az140-b20-wo-hazard

flasher-relay-az140-b20-wo-hazard.jpeg
 
Make sure to use the correct 3 prong flasher relay as there are 2 relays that will plug in.

The difference is what each prong is for.

FYI, if you opt for a new flasher relay, I suggest you get an original style thermal flasher relay. The "electronic" flasher relays are heavier and have a tendency to fall out of the plug.
 
The problem is likely with the T/S switch or wiring at the hazard switch. The flasher relay can't cause this problem AFAIK.

Power comes from the flasher relay and is then directed to the left or right signals through the T/S switch. If the switch is shorted internally it may cause both sides to flash.

The hazard switch has both left and right signal wires going to it but they should be isolated from each other when the switch is off. If the switch was wired incorrectly it may be causing the issue. A faulty hazard switch is also a possibility.
 
If you switch the turn signal to left (or right) and the left turn (or right) signals go on and stay on you have a problem with just your flasher relay. If all four signal lamps light up you have more than just a flasher relay problem. You need to specify the year of your 140 because the flasher relay changed during the production. The Tridon EL13 flasher fits 1970 -74 Volvos and is usually available at local parts stores.

If you have a failed flasher unit and you have the four way flasher knob pulled out to the operate position this will cause all 4 turn signals to light up and stay lit up. Make sure that the four way flasher switch is pushed in to the off position.

If the four way flasher knob is pushed into the off position and all 4 turn signals still light up when you the turn signal switch is turned left or right then you either have a problem with the turn signal switch or the switch which controls the 4 way flasher. Did you remove and reconnect wires on either the turn signal switch or the 4 way flasher switch? If you messed up the reconnection that will cause problems.

Start by replacing the turn signal flasher relay and making sure the 4 way flasher switch is off. If that does not fix the problem then get a wiring diagram for your particular model year 140 and check the operation of both switches. You can find some 140 diagrams here:

https://www.sw-em.com/Wiring_Diagrams_and_Related.htm
 
Gonna change the subject of the tread because this is still on the first page. As and update, the blinkers are now working as they should. Thanks for the suggestions.

Now I have a new problem... If anyone has been following my progress on this car you will know that I just swapped out the bw35 for an m40. The m40 was "perfect when pulled and worked just fine" I trust the guy and know him personally so I don't think he would have sold me it if he knew of any problems. However I am having a problem. It is leaking badly from the rear and possibly also the front. Additionally the throw out bearing, which is brand new, just starting squealing away every time I push on the clutch.

questions:
Is the squealing really the throw out bearing?
Would overfilling the transmission make it leak until it the fluid returned to the original level?
Is replacing, what I'm calling the front and rear main seals, hard to do?
What seals should I use to replace the old ones?
 
What brand of throw out bearing did you use and did you make sure it's the correct 1 for the style of clutch being used. Do you have the part number for the part or a picture of the part?

Volvo used 2 different brands of clutch and you need to make sure you used the matching release bearing.

Over filling isn't recommended. If it's over full, remove the fill plug on the side and let it drain out until it stops. Then wash the transmission and see if the leak goes away.

If the leak persists, you need to figure out where the oil is coming from.

Rear seals are easy to change, front seals aren't that hard, but you have to make sure you don't move the input shaft out of the gear box while changing the front seal or internal pieces may become dislodged.

The seals for the speedometer drive gear retaining sleeve are also easy to change.

If the rear gasket is leaking, the transmission has to come apart and this can be above some peoples skill level.

We only use original front and rear transmission seals both of which are double lipped seal as well as 1 of the speedo seals. The O-ring for the speedo sleeve is a common size, so we use aftermarket O-rings for those.
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...4,1286670,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993
This is the kit I bought from rock auto on a recommendation. (the 161$ one) The kit said not to apply grease to the bearing itself (although I did grease the shaft that it slides back and forth on and some other pivot points with some high temperature grease)
I'm hoping to knock out both of the issues at the same time as they both would seem to involve disassembly of the transmission to some capacity.
I already pulled the drain plug on the top and saw if it was over full and it seemed fine. I believe it is still leaking. Ill wash off the bottom and see what I can make out about where its leaking.
 
I've never seen that clutch kit before, so I can't tell you if there are previously known problems with their release bearing.

Maybe you'll see the problem when/if you pull the transmission.
 
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