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Old 10-21-2015, 11:28 PM   #1
PardoR
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Default Hi from Chile/ new here with a 1993 240 wagon. Blk smoke soot and craps!

Hi there! Greetings from Chile. I am new here....

I have been here for a couple of months reading you guys, and definitely you know volvos a LOT.
I had an V40 1999 euro specs, now I own an xc70 2007 and 1993 240 wagon AW70 with123.000 miles.
I bought the 240 to a couple of ancients far from my home (280miles)
In the first 60 miles, (with the check engine light on) , the car begun to spit huge amounts of black smoke and soot from the tailpipe and lost power, even in WOT.
It begun to drink gas like a camel with fever . Three full gasoline tanks in 240 miles....
The car lost power and was hard to drove it , the hills on the road were a real challenge.
So after many months ( 3, due to work) I begin to work on it.
the car had the PCV clogged (lots of oil on the engine- I supposed the rear cam shaft seal) , spark plugs full of crap, etc... I changed intake manifold and TB gaskets, T-pipe, oil trap. I cleaned the injectors with ultrasound and the store guy told me that they are ok, almost the same flow rate on four injectors.
Airbox thermostat changed
Throttle body cleaned and intake manifold
Have a tiny hole on the intake hose
The AMM was measured, And got 4ohms at room temp. I guess is OK
New spark plugs bosch

So I pull the codes and I got the 123 code related to ECT sensor on the socket 2 of the autodiagnosis.
I inspected the 02sensor and was sooted.
The car cranked but no starts.....
I checked /replaced all at reach of my knowledge (rotor, distributor cap, plugs, spark plug wires, coil) all was ok. It wont start. But reading the forum, I bought an starting spray and it starts.
In the very first ignition, the car is still blowing black smoke and soot.
I still have the check engine light on. I tried to erase but it come back again.
What else can I do? I have read many post (and there are a LOT of people with same symptoms) but is hard to get the same case and get the solution.

I am against the time to fix the car, 'cause i'm moving to Valparaiso (450 miles far from where now I live) and maybe it could happen soon as I expect. My wife is looking for a new house there and I guess that she is ready with that.
Your advices will be very appreciated.... Many thanks guys
Saludos amigos!!
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Old 10-22-2015, 12:22 AM   #2
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Welcome aboard.

Look at the fuel pressure regulator, if it's leaking into the vacuum signal hose, that is a lot of unmetered fuel into the engine.

I'd also inspect the whole intake system for a bad restriction like an old rag sucked into a tube or something.

Did you test ECT sensor?
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:56 AM   #3
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I looked the FPR and has no gas leaks...
As I wrote above, I cleaned the whole intake system: from the fender tube , passing trough the airbox , AMM, intake black hose, TB, intake manifold and did not found anything strange or something blocking some air duct.
I have read about the EZK codes ( socket 6 , right?) and I have not retrieve any codes of it. Is really necessary?

By the way, I have not tested the ECT sensor... But in the cargo area, came a box with many parts replaced by the former owners and there is other ECT. They told me that a couple of years ago, the ect was replaced.
If they changed the sensor, in a short time, I suspect of the wiring harness of the ect , or maybe the computer (ecu or ezk? I dont know) . I have read about cold joint on it, or a bad ground, even a computer wet by the rain o leaky windshields, and in the last case, will be enough to clean the computer with WD40 .
Thanks pal!

Last edited by PardoR; 10-22-2015 at 08:27 AM..
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:59 AM   #4
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I read here about a danish TBer who recommend put on the ect connector an 330ohm resistor to fool the computer. ... Maybe thinking a temporary solution meanwhile work the right fix
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Old 10-22-2015, 12:51 PM   #5
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Your car has 2 "temperature sensors" (not actually though, one is a sensor, one is a sending unit!). Perhaps the previous owner replaced the sending unit that gives the temperature on the gauge?

It sounds like the car is just running extremely rich. Like stated above, the fuel pressure regulator could be at fault, but ou checked that. I would replace the engine coolant temperature sensor just for peace of mind. You can test them for resistance though I believe to make sure you're within spec.
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Old 10-22-2015, 02:10 PM   #6
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It sounds like a bad ECT sensor or the wiring going to it. The sensor is a thermistor, with the resistance increasing as the sensor gets colder. If the sensor or wires are damaged to the point that the circuit is broken, the ECU will read no voltage and assume the resistance of the sensor is infinite and that the engine is therefore something like -50°C. The ECU freaks out and starts dumping tons of extra fuel to compensate.

If replacing the ECT doesn't fix it, start tracing wires and make sure you have continuity between the ECU and the sensor.
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:21 PM   #7
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Many thanks guys. I have read about that issue and all your posts led me to check the sensor, the wiring and the contacts on the ecu, included the grounds.

If the FPR could be faulty, does the FPR send an error code? I dont think so... But is a question :P
Could the AMM metering wrong? I could have an error code, but the only code that I have is 123 at the socket 2.....
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:47 PM   #8
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While it is rare, I've had the ECU fail on even 1993 cars with the white label ECUs.

Car now won't start? ECT sensor signal at ECU plug is correct for ambient temp?

AMM can cause blowing of black smoke as can the 02.

The FPR is purely mechanical. If it were out of spec much (pressure or more likely leaking gas into the vacuum signal hose), it is much more likely you would get one of the "fuel too lean or too rich at idle or cruise" or something like that recurring if you got any codes at all.
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:41 PM   #9
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http://swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/E...ECT%20Failures

Try the voltage test at the ecu.
Make sure you change the oil before the trip as it has fuel in it.
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Old 10-25-2015, 12:42 PM   #10
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You need to unsheath the ECU plug, backprobe the ECT terminal, and do a resistance test with ECU plug disconnected.

This will eliminate/confirm problems with the ECT sensor, the connector, or the wires.


32F (0C)-- about 6000 ohms within a range of +/- 10%
68F(20C) -- about 2300 ohms
104F(40C) -- about 1300 ohms
140F(60C) -- about 600 ohms
176F(80C) -- about 300 ohms
212F -- about 190 ohms

Check between ECU plug terminal 13 and ground with an ohmeter. Values are above. Coolant temp sensor is 221. Also check IGNITION COMPUTER terminal 2. Same test.


Last edited by ZVOLV; 10-25-2015 at 01:01 PM..
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:48 PM   #11
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Updates.....

The ECT is OK, measured out of the engine and tested with cold and hot water.... I did not have a thermometer close to me
It gave me similar values posted here by ZVOLV an and the swedishbicks.net link

But , if the ECt is ok, the suspects are:
The connector to ECT
The wiring harness
The ECU or EZK

I'm getting closer...
I'll keep you updated
Best regards
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:52 PM   #12
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Can the IGNITION ELECTRICAL SWITCH interfering here?
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:48 AM   #13
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#95 in the picture is a cold start injector and if it is staying on all the time, you might have some smoke.
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Old 10-30-2015, 08:34 PM   #14
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If it were my car, I would first test the resistance of the temp sensor AT THE ECU's, make sure they are in spec, then maybe load up the parts cannon with a MAF and an ECU. ECU unlikely. MAF possible, but who knows!? Just stabbing at it from North America.
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Old 11-03-2015, 11:39 PM   #15
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NEWS:

Measured the EZK connector at terminal 2 : no signal. My (digital) tester don't show reading.(not 000, just an 1 )

Measured the ECU plug connected to ECT (5 ground and 13 ECT wire): at 20 celsius, 3080 ohms aprox.( ECU plug out of ECU)

Measured the ECU plug AT the ECU: 3400 ohms aprox.

Measured the ECT direct at engine: 2480 ohms aprox.

The environmental temp was 20 Celsius at the moment.

When I tested the ECU plug, the terminal 5, it had connection to 02 heater sensor....strange for me....

When I tested the ECU plug, the EZK plug must be connected to get data... Why?

I opened the EZK computer and I found some kind of corrossion ... I tought it was water... I cleaned it with Sonax Contact Cleaner.. let's see if it make changes...

Thanks for your comments

Saludos amigos
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Old 11-06-2015, 11:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PardoR View Post
NEWS:

(1) Measured the EZK connector at terminal 2 : no signal. My (digital) tester don't show reading.(not 000, just an 1 )

(2) Measured the ECU plug AT the ECU: 3400 ohms aprox.

(3) Measured the ECT direct at engine: 2480 ohms aprox.
1. Measure between this pin and a good ground. There are plenty around. Cigarette lighter is a good clean easy ground. If you have NO reading here that is a big problem. Pin 2 on EZK goes directly to the ECT sensor. You need to have proper ohmage here.

2/3. Also red flag! You should have the same reading at ECU pin 13 to ground as you should AT sensor to ground. 1000 ohms differencia es mucho! Furthermore, you could test FROM each pin at the plug to ECU pin 13, EZK pin 2. The wire should read close to zero ohms. If it is OPEN, you have a bad connection or broken wire.


Oh and FORGET ECU pin 5. Looking at wiring diagram I posted, it has NOTHING to do with the ECT circuit. Its just one of those two wires coming out of the ECU that is bridged right near it. I forget the effect, but it can alter tuning whether the bridge is there or not. IDK why guys are saying it's the ground. I would simply just put multimter to the BACK of ECU plugs and then check directly to a good clean ground.
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Old 11-11-2015, 01:14 PM   #17
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Where can I find the main grounds of this car? I know the two wires in the manifold, but where else ?
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:11 AM   #18
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Try cleaning the two multi pin connectors on the firewall with the contact cleaner, connect and disconnect these connectors several times to help clean them. Also make sure the connectors are not backing out of the ECT plug when you connect it to the ect, and clean them with the contact cleaner. Then test again.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:18 PM   #19
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I have made a parallel wiring to the ECT to the ecu and ezk....
Still not tested....

I will let you know....
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:36 AM   #20
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Black soot obvy means rich.

Could be anything from stuck fuel pressure regulator, bunk MAF, bunk ECU, stuck open inyectors, cold start injector on 240? think not, but maybe, ummm bad ECT sensor or wiring. O2 sensor stuck. (check for voltage swingin between .1 and .9v once HOT)


The more I know, the more I realize I don't know. I misdiagnosed a 2003 BMW X5 yesterday. O2 sensors were putting out some STRANGE looking signals (to me, at least) on the scan tool and the laboratory scope. I thought the o2 sensors were bad because they were stuck down at .1 volts for a while, (briefly swung between .1/.9v) but then later the data showed stuck down by .1. Somebody made a decision to fire $500 worth of 4 o2 sensors at it and, WHIFFFFF!!! It was still misfiring and tossing 02 sensor and misfire codes. Now vacuum leak is the concept being investigated. Could still hear the intake pops...
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
Black soot obvy means rich.

Could be anything from stuck fuel pressure regulator, bunk MAF, bunk ECU, stuck open inyectors, cold start injector on 240? think not, but maybe, ummm bad ECT sensor or wiring. O2 sensor stuck. (check for voltage swingin between .1 and .9v once HOT)


...
But the scanner says error 123, that means Bad ECT or something related... That is why I still try to fix that part and, if there is a new error code , then proceed to the next issue. You're right. It could be anything but this is my only one error code and I dont know if there is something else. Thanks A LOT for stay tuned!!
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:50 AM   #22
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The EZK does not have a ground.... The metallic box of the ECU comes attached to the chassis, having a good ground. But the EZK IS PLASTIC and dont have a ground contact. Even the pin 2 in my ezk plug does not have a female metallic terminal to touch the EZK pin....

Do I must to build a ground for it? With a cable attached to the chassis like the ECU... Any advices?
Many thanks again!
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:34 PM   #23
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I have tested my parallel wiring: totally ****.

The ECt measured at car on both pins: 2400 ohms @59F (environmental temp)
The EZK connector at pin 2 and ground (cigarrette lighter): no read, just an 1
The ECU connector at pin 13 and ground (cigarrette lighter) : 0,12 ohms , same temp

What a f**k is going on?

Where can I found the grounds in this car?
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:57 PM   #24
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I don't have a scanner but here are some photos of my bentley manual's pages on grounds.

http://imgur.com/g30QBH8
http://imgur.com/qZNRIk0
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Old 11-17-2015, 07:54 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khrrck View Post
I don't have a scanner but here are some photos of my bentley manual's pages on grounds.

http://imgur.com/g30QBH8
http://imgur.com/qZNRIk0
Thanks master
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