• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Jimbo's Green Wagon: 1972 145S

lol

ohaIH1Gl.jpg

C3NO2zLl.jpg

Z1G3cJbl.jpg

x0k8Xfzl.jpg
 
vwbusman66 said:
Yes. It came up for sale from the guy who bought it from the dealer I sold it to.
Click to expand...

Sweet. Hopefully there's some equity for you if those guys did some work on the car. To quote a departed friend and consummate car salesman/buyer, "there's no better money spent on a car than the previous owner's."
 
Duder said:
Sweet. Hopefully there's some equity for you if those guys did some work on the car. To quote a departed friend and consummate car salesman/buyer, "there's no better money spent on a car than the previous owner's."
Click to expand...

eh. I paid roughly $1800 more for it than I sold it for, and it's a driver now. It needs shocks all around as well as bushings and some other maintenance done but I'm just glad to have it back.
 
vwbusman66 said:
eh. I paid roughly $1800 more for it than I sold it for, and it's a driver now. It needs shocks all around as well as bushings and some other maintenance done but I'm just glad to have it back.
Click to expand...

Well, if it would've cost you more than $1800 to pay a shop to do the work that the POs did, then you are ahead of the game.

I wonder if the primer spots could be spot painted blended into the original paint without resorting to respraying whole panels. Maybe some modern single stage urethane and a helpful paint supply shop could do the trick?

In any case, enjoy it.
 
Duder said:
Well, if it would've cost you more than $1800 to pay a shop to do the work that the POs did, then you are ahead of the game.

I wonder if the primer spots could be spot painted blended into the original paint without resorting to respraying whole panels. Maybe some modern single stage urethane and a helpful paint supply shop could do the trick?

In any case, enjoy it.
Click to expand...

I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
 
vwbusman66 said:
I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
Click to expand...

I had good results doing similar on the back of my 1800es. fooled the people who didn't squint at it... and the guy who bought the car ended up asking me where I got the color matched rattlecan so he could get more :lol:

the whole lower area surrounding the rear window glass was rattlecan blended. the shade is off slightly (too much green), and you can see where it returns to normal on the lower bumper because of the streaks

s-l1600.jpg
 
vwbusman66 said:
Frankly, I agree. Plop a 6 liter LS in it and have the longest drift missle known to man.
Click to expand...

First, you must own a nice drift car to have a “drift missile”.
Otherwise, you just have a crappy drift car. Don’t try and church it up.

It’s always fun to have an old friend come back home. :cheers:
 
vwbusman66 said:
I'm at least gonna try and blend it with a spray can from VP to make it all the same color. I have a few friends who are pretty good at blending and if the money comes up, I may just have them blend it down the road.
Click to expand...

These old paints are incredibly forgiving when it comes to blending, etc... If you end up doing it yourself, wetsand the entire panel (primer and OEM paint) with 2000 grit. Then spray (at least 3-4 coats, working your way into the factory paint), then wetsand again with 2500 grit and then buff the whole with any old dual orbital buffer and mid-grit compound from 3M. The whole thing will take time (5-6 hours, easily) but you should be able to fool most people.
 
matt b said:
These old paints are incredibly forgiving when it comes to blending, etc... If you end up doing it yourself, wetsand the entire panel (primer and OEM paint) with 2000 grit. Then spray (at least 3-4 coats, working your way into the factory paint), then wetsand again with 2500 grit and then buff the whole with any old dual orbital buffer and mid-grit compound from 3M. The whole thing will take time (5-6 hours, easily) but you should be able to fool most people.
Click to expand...

I will certainly attempt this as I'd like to make the primer spots at least "match" even if the repaint on the car wasn't great.

Over the weekend, I swapped the Bilstein HD's off the 142 and onto this and inspected the front end more closely. I also have the IPD front sway ready to go on. The UCA bushings look good, the lowers are junk, however. Next up are Lesjofors overload springs for the rear as well as KYB Gas-A-Justs. I found a little bit of rust just starting on the drivers frame rail just like the 142, which is bizarre. I'll grind it all out, see if it needs patching, and the POR-15 the hell out of it once I'm done.
 
Thanks Dana ;-)

So I'm at a crossroads with this thing. At some point soon, the engine needs to come out for a total reseal as it's leaky and god only knows what else needs replacing. If I'm pulling it, I'd like to make some upgrades to get more power. I'm looking at a cam, gears, DCOE's, M410, exhaust, total reseal, and maybe some port work. I'd be looking at about $3k to do that, all in, without doing anything internally. I have no idea about the history of this engine and would probably opt to do bearings, rings, and possibly even pistons.

I have a low mileage 13mm rod B230F in the garage along with a bunch of parts. I did the math, and could feasibly do the swap with Microsquirt for around $2500 including a clutch and flywheel for the T5 from the 142. I don't need or want 300hp. 200 reliable hp would be plenty for this thing.

Decisions decisions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top