-OneTimeUser-
New member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2021
Short story:
Volvo 940 SE, b230fk, automatic. EGR with temp senor.
Removed EGR valve and blocked of exhaust/intake pipes. Removed and pluged vacuum hoses from vac-solenoid. In the empty EGR temp sensor connector, made a loop with a resistor, 0.25w, 51k ohm. Done.
Long story:
So I have this 940 SE -96 as my daily driver. B230fk, automatic, slightly increased boost to make it a little more exciting.
Anyway, I decided to give her a bit of much needed TLC. Were a few oil and vacuum leaks and the oil-catch-thing for the crankcase ventilation needed cleaning. Anyone who has serviced the crankcase vent system knows that when removing the oil-catch-thing from the block you first need to remove the EGR valve (if your car is equipped with it).
I came to the realisation, after a lot of curses and bloodied knuckles, that there was no way that I could get the EGR valve and the steel pipes of the car in one piece. So i did what any slightly infuriated DIYer would have done, I brought that crowbar down upon that heathen EGR valve like the wrath of god.
When I was done cleaning the crankcase vent system I decided that no way in hell would I put that mangled EGR valve back on the block. So I blocked of the pipes to the exhaust and intake, unplugged the connector to the temp senor on the EGR valve and removed and plugged the hoses to the vacuum solenoid on the drivers side shock tower.
Started her up and everything seemed fine, ran really smooth with all them vac-leaks fixed. Took a short drive to make sure everything worked as inteded. After a few miles the check engine light came on, and I figured it was because of the EGR delete. It still ran fine, problem with CEL is that here in Sweden we have mandatory annual inspection, and if the CEL is on during inspection it automaticly fails. So I started searching the forums for some easy fix, figured that there got to be some way to fool the ICU to think that everything is fine with the EGR. Little did I know that most "quick fixes" for the EGR delete related CEL was to get a ICU from a car without the EGR system. I had little interest in buying another ICU, even less so trying to find/buying a new EGR valve and pipes.
Continued searching the forums far and wide, until i stumbled upon some bloke at a 850 forum that apparently had removed his EGR successfully with no CEL, by replacing the EGR temp sensor with a 0.25w 2.2k ohm resistor. Since the EGR valve and temp senor of the 850 looks very similar to the one on the 940 (and they are produced roughly during the same period) I decided to gave this a shot. Bought an assortment of 0.25w resistors ranging from 10-1M ohms, for about 10 bucks and tried the 2.2k, but no success. The CEL came on allmost immediately as I started the car. I also tried just looping a wire between the leads in the temp senor connector, the CEL would stay off for longer but still no success.
I then did what I should have done from the beginning, measure the ohm readings on the temp senor from my mangled EGR valve during different temperatures.
At ambient temperatures it showed around 130k-140k ohms. When heating it a bit with a blowtorch to "similate exhaust temperatures" it showed around 40k-70k ohms. Took a gamble and put cable shoes and some shrink hose on a 51k ohm resistor and slapped it in the temp sensor connector under the intake manifold. It has now been a couple of weeks, and the CEL has not came on yet. Car runs great without the EGR no issues yet, maybe even a little better at part throttle, but i cannot really say for certain.
*Note that i did NOT remove or unplug the vac-solenoid, just the hoses. I suspect that you can remove the vac-solenoid valve without the CEL coming on since the ICU only seems to care about the temp sensor, I just havent tried so I cant say for certain.
Anyway, hope this is of use to someone with similar problems. Tought I might post this here since most forum threads about the EGR delet was from this site.
and happy wrenching!
Volvo 940 SE, b230fk, automatic. EGR with temp senor.
Removed EGR valve and blocked of exhaust/intake pipes. Removed and pluged vacuum hoses from vac-solenoid. In the empty EGR temp sensor connector, made a loop with a resistor, 0.25w, 51k ohm. Done.
Long story:
So I have this 940 SE -96 as my daily driver. B230fk, automatic, slightly increased boost to make it a little more exciting.
Anyway, I decided to give her a bit of much needed TLC. Were a few oil and vacuum leaks and the oil-catch-thing for the crankcase ventilation needed cleaning. Anyone who has serviced the crankcase vent system knows that when removing the oil-catch-thing from the block you first need to remove the EGR valve (if your car is equipped with it).
I came to the realisation, after a lot of curses and bloodied knuckles, that there was no way that I could get the EGR valve and the steel pipes of the car in one piece. So i did what any slightly infuriated DIYer would have done, I brought that crowbar down upon that heathen EGR valve like the wrath of god.
When I was done cleaning the crankcase vent system I decided that no way in hell would I put that mangled EGR valve back on the block. So I blocked of the pipes to the exhaust and intake, unplugged the connector to the temp senor on the EGR valve and removed and plugged the hoses to the vacuum solenoid on the drivers side shock tower.
Started her up and everything seemed fine, ran really smooth with all them vac-leaks fixed. Took a short drive to make sure everything worked as inteded. After a few miles the check engine light came on, and I figured it was because of the EGR delete. It still ran fine, problem with CEL is that here in Sweden we have mandatory annual inspection, and if the CEL is on during inspection it automaticly fails. So I started searching the forums for some easy fix, figured that there got to be some way to fool the ICU to think that everything is fine with the EGR. Little did I know that most "quick fixes" for the EGR delete related CEL was to get a ICU from a car without the EGR system. I had little interest in buying another ICU, even less so trying to find/buying a new EGR valve and pipes.
Continued searching the forums far and wide, until i stumbled upon some bloke at a 850 forum that apparently had removed his EGR successfully with no CEL, by replacing the EGR temp sensor with a 0.25w 2.2k ohm resistor. Since the EGR valve and temp senor of the 850 looks very similar to the one on the 940 (and they are produced roughly during the same period) I decided to gave this a shot. Bought an assortment of 0.25w resistors ranging from 10-1M ohms, for about 10 bucks and tried the 2.2k, but no success. The CEL came on allmost immediately as I started the car. I also tried just looping a wire between the leads in the temp senor connector, the CEL would stay off for longer but still no success.
I then did what I should have done from the beginning, measure the ohm readings on the temp senor from my mangled EGR valve during different temperatures.
At ambient temperatures it showed around 130k-140k ohms. When heating it a bit with a blowtorch to "similate exhaust temperatures" it showed around 40k-70k ohms. Took a gamble and put cable shoes and some shrink hose on a 51k ohm resistor and slapped it in the temp sensor connector under the intake manifold. It has now been a couple of weeks, and the CEL has not came on yet. Car runs great without the EGR no issues yet, maybe even a little better at part throttle, but i cannot really say for certain.
*Note that i did NOT remove or unplug the vac-solenoid, just the hoses. I suspect that you can remove the vac-solenoid valve without the CEL coming on since the ICU only seems to care about the temp sensor, I just havent tried so I cant say for certain.
Anyway, hope this is of use to someone with similar problems. Tought I might post this here since most forum threads about the EGR delet was from this site.
and happy wrenching!
