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240 Clutch replace...but now doesn?t go into any gears.

MasterBlaster said:
Generally, a manual trans should slide easily right up to the block.

The only kinds of "resistance" I've experienced from working on assorted brands of car are:

- Transmission that isn't quite straight, or clutch friction plate that wasn't properly centered when tightening the pressure plate.

- Bell housing locating dowels or holes that weren't cleaned and anti-seized. Usually have to pry the trans off, too.

- A different type of TO bearing that's actually spring-loaded against the clutch, rather than free-floating.

- An input shaft being forced into a defective or binding pilot bearing. That was February's Jeep. Pilot bearing came apart, rusty rollers were dragging the input shaft around.

Was the pilot bearing you re-used a bearing or a bushing? And if a bearing, did the greasy little needle rollers happily spin?

- Wrong parts. I think it was another Jeep. Wouldn't even come within an inch of the engine. Parts catalog was wrong.
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I was concerned the trans wasn't straight but we used a jack on the rear of the trans to maneuver it every which way, up and down, left to right and it wouldn't slide the last 1/4" to smoothly mate up with the block.

We used the same clutch kit twice, ordered from FCP which should be the right one, but like you said it might be a parts house mix up.

The pilot bearing we reused but it seemed to spin fine. It was sealed on the front side so I could only judge by the spinning that I felt by hand.
 
Its most definitely not properly releasing the pressure plate, when you don't have the drive-shaft installed, the slight pressure from the shift forks onto the hubs can get them spooled up quickly to make an easy engagement, you need to make sure that the fork is getting enough throw to engage fully. The difficulty in reconnecting the bell housing may indicate that your throwout bearing is binding on the front hub-shaft, this would make a very difficult install. If this is not the case then it is also possible that the shift rods are bent or that the shifter itself was installed backward, if this is the case no gear will set in fully. Check these issues first and always, ALWAYS check the friction disc for directionality. Also confirm fitment for dished or flat-style flywheel. The fact that gears engage when there is no load (i.e. dirve-shaft) does not confirm that the clutch "works", this typical for smoked clutches as well as perfectly working ones. If need be pull the tranny cover and shift into gears with the forks, check for binding or other issues. If you can put the output shaft into a vice (or other setup) shift into gear and turn input shaft with A LOT of force to see if it pops out of gear. There's not a lot of possibilities otherwise...
 
All I can add to this right now is don't ever use the bolts to pull a transmission into place. You would not believe how much force is generated at very low torque values.
 
What a $hitshow. I?m guessing this thing will have to come down once more to truly make sure we?re all straight and tidy inside. We referenced the correct markings for ?gearbox side? towards the transmission and used the clutch alignment tool to ensure the disc was centered and the pressure plate slipped right on the dowels nice and easy. The only thing I can think as an issue right now is that there?s a parts mix up or possibly bad pilot bearings but again, I would be very skeptical if the car was shifting fine beforehand and then pilot bearing instantly went bad once putting on a new disc.

Also does anyone know the ID of the M46 pilot bearing so I can get ahold of the right puller? The Oreilly one worked for me when I pulled the auto pilot bearing out of my B230F but it wouldn?t fit inside the ID of the pilot bearing pulled from this 84 245 Turbo factory non-intercooled.

Additionally, for the TO bearing on these transmissions, does it just ?turn? to lock in place on the two ?tangs? of the clutch fork?
 
Estateman said:
What a $hitshow. I?m guessing this thing will have to come down once more to truly make sure we?re all straight and tidy inside. We referenced the correct markings for ?gearbox side? towards the transmission and used the clutch alignment tool to ensure the disc was centered and the pressure plate slipped right on the dowels nice and easy. The only thing I can think as an issue right now is that there?s a parts mix up or possibly bad pilot bearings but again, I would be very skeptical if the car was shifting fine beforehand and then pilot bearing instantly went bad once putting on a new disc.

Also does anyone know the ID of the M46 pilot bearing so I can get ahold of the right puller? The Oreilly one worked for me when I pulled the auto pilot bearing out of my B230F but it wouldn?t fit inside the ID of the pilot bearing pulled from this 84 245 Turbo factory non-intercooled.

Additionally, for the TO bearing on these transmissions, does it just ?turn? to lock in place on the two ?tangs? of the clutch fork?
Click to expand...

I bought the bearing puller and took a grinder to it until it fit.
 
Any chance that during one of your trans uninstall/install sessions the trans input shaft could have snagged on or banged into the PP fingers? That can deform the fingers enough...

That happened to me once. The tranny jack was the cheapie from HF with no good trim angle control, and when pulling the tranny back, as soon as the input shaft came out of the crankshaft it dropped down and thudded onto the PP fingers, deforming them.

Just a thought.
 
tintintin said:
Any chance that during one of your trans uninstall/install sessions the trans input shaft could have snagged on or banged into the PP fingers? That can deform the fingers enough...

That happened to me once. The tranny jack was the cheapie from HF with no good trim angle control, and when pulling the tranny back, as soon as the input shaft came out of the crankshaft it dropped down and thudded onto the PP fingers, deforming them.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...

I actually used the HF trans jack and was able to get it up in there by myself within an hour or two using pure brute strength to jam it in there. In true TB formula I put in a used PP and clutch disc and I?d like to think I rammed the PP fingers with the input shaft several time and no problems with that yet. We were much nicer to the PP and assorted components with this install.
 
How to remove the pilot bearing without a puller: 1-2 slices of white bread and a 3/8 extension. Hammer that bread into the middle of the bearing, add more, repeat. It’ll push it out. No greasy mess.
If the trans doesn’t immediately seat, it’s usually from the clutch disk not being perfectly centered. Place a few bolts on the bell housing and snug them up by hand. Install the Clutch cable, and have someone press the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch, then release pedal. The trans should now slide the rest of the way on without any drama. You’ve just used the input shaft as a clutch alignment tool, you just have to release the pressure plate to make everything happy.
 
Did you check the splines of the friction disc onto the input shaft? Could be not engaging/too loose/separated from the disc and just spinning...
 
So I adjusted the cable some more and it goes into all the gears. Drove it around the neighborhood and on the highway. Shifts good. Just a little vibration while coasting. I’ll probably adjust it some more and report back.
 
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