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Old 01-30-2021, 10:44 PM   #176
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Nice work, does it fit the driveshaft?
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Old 01-30-2021, 11:07 PM   #177
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I need to get the front driveshaft shortened at the driveshaft shop and they will remove the old bearing and install this one. I was having a real difficulty removing the old one, I'm sure they can do it much easier with their hydraulic press.

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Old 02-01-2021, 09:01 PM   #178
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Just got home after dropping off my driveshaft and new support bearing at the shop. I'm a little concerned, the diameter of the front shaft is 2 inches, but the ID of the Spicer bearing is 1.77 inches. This is also the size of the bearing IPD says should fit these shafts. Is the diameter a little bit smaller where the bearing sits? Will it fit?
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Old 02-01-2021, 09:45 PM   #179
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Just got home after dropping off my driveshaft and new support bearing at the shop. I'm a little concerned, the diameter of the front shaft is 2 inches, but the ID of the Spicer bearing is 1.77 inches. This is also the size of the bearing IPD says should fit these shafts. Is the diameter a little bit smaller where the bearing sits? Will it fit?
It should
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:15 PM   #180
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That's what I thought too. The guys at the driveshaft shop were pretty alarmed when they saw the Spicer mount.
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It should
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Old 02-05-2021, 10:09 AM   #181
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That's what I thought too. The guys at the driveshaft shop were pretty alarmed when they saw the Spicer mount.
Any word on how this turned out?
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Old 02-06-2021, 02:47 AM   #182
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Here it is. 4-cylinder dampened slip yoke with a shortened front shaft that is 16.5 inches front U-Joint center on the yoke to the middle of the Spicer bearing. It was raining all day today, I need to get longer bolts then I will install it tomorrow and upload a photo. Tasca messed up my first order for a rubber block that I need to install the clutch cable to the pedal and it's coming in a few weeks so I think I'll have to wait until then before I can drive it. It's confusing a 45mm or 1.771 inch ID bearing fits the two-inch shaft

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Any word on how this turned out?
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Old 02-06-2021, 07:39 AM   #183
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Thr part where the bearing sits is thicker and cut down.
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:17 AM   #184
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I just got back from my first drive with the T5! I went on the drive without measuring my driveline angles, assuming they were off. There was vibration from 1800-2500 at least. Not super aggressive but definitely there. I'll fix my angles in the next couple of days and that should improve things. I think I accidentally measured my front shaft 0.5-1.0 inch shorter than it should have been. The edge of the damper is basically flush with the end of the transmission as seen in the picture. This is probably sticking out a little further than ideal right? However, I think I will have to lower my center support bearing to achieve better angles and this will push it back in a little further but I'm not sure by how much. Also, when I measure the diff where should I place my phone on it? I don't exactly a flat spot that's would be accurate. I'm using the Tremec app.
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:38 AM   #185
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I just got back from my first drive with the T5! I went on the drive without measuring my driveline angles, assuming they were off. There was vibration from 1800-2500 at least. Not super aggressive but definitely there. I'll fix my angles in the next couple of days and that should improve things. I think I accidentally measured my front shaft 0.5-1.0 inch shorter than it should have been. The edge of the damper is basically flush with the end of the transmission as seen in the picture. This is probably sticking out a little further than ideal right? However, I think I will have to lower my center support bearing to achieve better angles and this will push it back in a little further but I'm not sure by how much. Also, when I measure the diff where should I place my phone on it? I don't exactly a flat spot that's would be accurate. I'm using the Tremec app.
Yeah, that's a bit too much sticking out, you only want about 3/4" to 1".

For the phone app try using the rib on the side of the diff, should be inline with the pinion.
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Old 02-07-2021, 02:36 AM   #186
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Ok, I'll give this a go. If I still have vibrations after correct angles should I consider getting it lengthened to 17 inches? Don't know how I measured it this far off, darn it.
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Yeah, that's a bit too much sticking out, you only want about 3/4" to 1".

For the phone app try using the rib on the side of the diff, should be inline with the pinion.
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Old 02-07-2021, 01:46 PM   #187
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You can also put the diff yoke so the caps are top and bottom, driveshaft caps will be on the sides. Then put a socket on the bottom cap, phone on that. That allows you to measure from the joint itself.
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Old 02-07-2021, 02:56 PM   #188
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Will do. Im just mainly concerned about the length of my front shaft, it seems to short. Iíll probably have to spend another couple hundred bucks to get it lengthened and balanced again.
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You can also put the diff yoke so the caps are top and bottom, driveshaft caps will be on the sides. Then put a socket on the bottom cap, phone on that. That allows you to measure from the joint itself.
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Old 02-08-2021, 01:57 PM   #189
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Will do. Im just mainly concerned about the length of my front shaft, it seems to short. Iíll probably have to spend another couple hundred bucks to get it lengthened and balanced again.
Fix angles first, length second.

"Cut it twice, and it's still too short!"
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Old 02-08-2021, 03:25 PM   #190
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Yes, I will go under the car today and get it right. The fact I messed up the measurement the first time is such a slap in the face. I swear it was correct. If the vibration is gone after I fix angles, am I hurting anything if the yoke is out that far? I probably should get it lengthened even if the vibration is gone, but it's probably going to be 200ish bucks, which totals my modified driveshaft to over 500 bucks. ****

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Fix angles first, length second.

"Cut it twice, and it's still too short!"
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Old 02-08-2021, 05:40 PM   #191
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Yes, I will go under the car today and get it right. The fact I messed up the measurement the first time is such a slap in the face. I swear it was correct. If the vibration is gone after I fix angles, am I hurting anything if the yoke is out that far? I probably should get it lengthened even if the vibration is gone, but it's probably going to be 200ish bucks, which totals my modified driveshaft to over 500 bucks. ****

Here's mine... 3/4" out the back.



Thinking you might want to get that looked at, not much engagement on your setup. Measure 20 times cut once....

Yeah that sucks, I'm out about that much for everything with my custom aluminum 3" one piece setup with the monster yoke, including balance.

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Old 02-08-2021, 06:08 PM   #192
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It looks like your yoke is almost flush with the fin with the three bolt holes whereas mine is flush with the tail shaft. That's probably closer to a 1.5-2.0 inch difference. Also, because mine is a two-piece setup my yoke doesn't even move in or out at all during driving. It should be in at least 3/4 if not a little further because it's not ever going to bottom out. I'll probably end up going back to NW drivelines sometime this week.
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Here's mine... 3/4" out the back.



Thinking you might want to get that looked at, not much engagement on your setup. Measure 20 times cut once....

Yeah that sucks, I'm out about that much for everything with my custom aluminum 3" one piece setup with the monster yoke, including balance.
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Old 02-08-2021, 06:27 PM   #193
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You want it to be maybe 3/4" out from fully inserted, so yeah, you're pushing it with the limited insertion. Running it that way can lead to increased wear in the bushing and splines along with more chance of vibration.
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Old 02-08-2021, 06:38 PM   #194
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Yep, you don't want it butting up against the seal as it needs wiggle room
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 02-08-2021, 07:37 PM   #195
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It's already leaking and it's a brand new resealed transmission. I have an idea though, could I buy a driveshaft spacer for the rear shaft, drill new holes for the center support bearing, and that might solve the issue for less money? Something like this might work?
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You want it to be maybe 3/4" out from fully inserted, so yeah, you're pushing it with the limited insertion. Running it that way can lead to increased wear in the bushing and splines along with more chance of vibration.
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Old 02-08-2021, 08:16 PM   #196
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Perhaps, regarding the spacer. Didn't YOSHIFAB make some sort of T5 spacer? Perhaps he could one off a unit for you with custom thickness. CNC program written just change a variable or two.......

Have you fully articulated your rear suspension to ensure the furthest travel of your T5 yoke, forward? As I'm sure you know, that clearance is designed to allow for full suspension travel.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:13 PM   #197
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Yeah, Yoshifab does make a spacer for 240ís using a Mustang shaft. Is the ford 8.8 rear end the same size flange as the 740? I should have no problem finding a spacer if thatís the case. Iím a novice when it comes to understanding suspension systems, how else can I move the slip yoke inward other than lowering the CSB further? Iíve already lowered it around an inch with washers, but I still need to lower it even further to get better angles. Extending the rear shaft with a spacer might make good driveline angles impossible to achieve but I think Iíll buy one and see if I can make it work. If I can get it to work Iíll have saved at least 150 instead of going back to the driveshaft shop. If it doesnít work Iíll just return it anyways. No harm no foul.
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Perhaps, regarding the spacer. Didn't YOSHIFAB make some sort of T5 spacer? Perhaps he could one off a unit for you with custom thickness. CNC program written just change a variable or two.......

Have you fully articulated your rear suspension to ensure the furthest travel of your T5 yoke, forward? As I'm sure you know, that clearance is designed to allow for full suspension travel.
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Old 02-08-2021, 10:16 PM   #198
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Not sure where you're at, but my local shop only charges about $150 to retube and balance. Since you aren't doing joints, bearing, or any pressing, that should be all they are doing, shouldn't be that bad. Probably on par with getting a spacer made, but you'd be doing it the right way, not the 'right now' way.
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Old 02-08-2021, 11:36 PM   #199
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Not sure where you're at, but my local shop only charges about $150 to retube and balance. Since you aren't doing joints, bearing, or any pressing, that should be all they are doing, shouldn't be that bad. Probably on par with getting a spacer made, but you'd be doing it the right way, not the 'right now' way.
Yeah that sounds like the correct plan of action. Bet they'll go a little easier on you because you were just in as well. NW Drivelines has been good to me.
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Old 02-09-2021, 10:47 PM   #200
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Getting it lengthened would be the most legit way, but I think I found a perfectly fine solution. I drilled new holes for the CSB one inch further on the plate and mounted it up. The slip yoke built into the two shafts has about two inches with no splines, so all the splines are still contacting even though it's moved out one inch. Here is a picture of the connection with the two shafts and the new clearance with the T5 yoke. I'm going to go on my first drive in a few minutes to go buy some more washers to lower the bearing even more. Is there anything wrong with this? All the splines are still contacting where the two shafts meet.

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