1994 945 Turbo Ultimate DD Build

linuxman51 said:

nicely done! car looks awesome!

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thanks man!!

nice build ! Will be excited to see dyno results ! Great inspo and like others have mentioned attention to detail , really like the full info display setup you have going on there, matches the look of the interior great!

whatshouldido said:

nice build ! Will be excited to see dyno results ! Great inspo and like others have mentioned attention to detail , really like the full info display setup you have going on there, matches the look of the interior great!

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Thank you!

The UT Comp Pro has been great, and I love how it blends in well with the interior. The sightline isn't the best for monitoring while driving, but the Android app works excellent and I can view all the gauge data on my phone screen with a mount near the cluster. It's also spot on for measuring fuel consumption and the data logging feature has come in handy.

The next purchase will be an aluminum intercooler from KL racing and that will pretty much finish the bolt-on power parts, so I'm planning on getting it dyno'd once that's done!

I'm running around 22psi right now on the 20T and it's a blast. Best bang for the buck on any mod so far, I have about $800 in the turbo setup, including the full 3" exhaust system.

I just got around to wiring up the VSS for the UTComp and was wondering if you'd mind sharing what your VSS constant figures were? Upgrades are looking great btw

How are you liking the new intercooler?

deNs said:

I just got around to wiring up the VSS for the UTComp and was wondering if you'd mind sharing what your VSS constant figures were? Upgrades are looking great btw

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Mine is set at 0.1579 and matches the speedo perfectly. My speedo reads about 1-2% faster than GPS on Google maps but I wanted the utcomp to match the car's speedo.

Dvroofer said:

How are you liking the new intercooler?

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Between the IC and a 3" AMM it's running awesome now! I'll make an update one of these days

I didn't take as many photos as I should have, but here's my KL Racing intercooler install. One of the flanges was dented pretty badly, so I reached to KL and they offered to refund me 40 euro if I was able to repair it myself. The aluminum was more ductile than I expected, I was able to straighten it with a ball peen hammer in about 2 minutes.

It fit okay but I definitely had to modify it to fit.

I ended up removing about 5mm from the height of the triangular mounting lugs on the bottom, most of the rear mounting tab (that bolts to the radiator), and the entire mounting tab that the condenser bolts to. The overall height was a bit too much to fit the upper tie bar back on without modification.

I drilled two holes in the radiator mounting tab and and secured it using the original screws and j-nuts.

The condenser no longer has anywhere to bolt to, but it's very snug in there so I just used a chunk of edge sealer from the old IC and put it on the condenser to keep it from rubbing metal on the intercooler.

I had to remove a little rubber from the radiator cushions.





thick rows






screwed to the radiator


all the material i had to remove

Somehow, even with the larger turbo, KL intercooler, 525cc injectors, and e85 the car was still running too rich in full boost, to the point of misfire. redblockpowered and I theorized that it was either a scaling or resolution issue with the 016 AMM (i tried 2 different units with the same result).

I sourced a 3 inch 012 AMM from ebay for $75, as well as 2x 2.75" to 3" couplers, and a 2.75" aluminum pipe.

I want to keep the stock airbox, so I cut a few inches off the pipe pre-AMM, cut an inch or so off the turbo intake pipe, and cut the aluminum pipe in half to serve as a clamping flanger for the reducer and the turbo intake pipe.

It took about 100 miles for the ECU to adapt to the 012 MAF, but damn it runs great now! I have to boost set around 20 psi (spikes to about 21-22 psi) and it holds the AFR rock solid at .80 up to .85 at higher RPM. It's a lot of fun when the rear tires break loose at 30mph in first gear





The aluminum pipe is beneath the larger T-bolt clamp, the t-bolt is wide enough to secure both silicone pipes.

Heard some weird hissing under hood and discovered the coolant reservoir cap had developed a crack.

I went to O'Reilly for a quick replacement and looked at the part at the counter. It was complete junk, the center section wasn't even aligned parallel with the threads, it was probably 10 degrees off.

Thankfully my local dealer had one in stock and I'm back in business.

Now that the car is making significantly more power than when I started, I need to focus on preserving the life of the AW71. I decided to add and external cooler/filter and eliminate the radiator cooler. Accumulator mod and internal filter is next on the list, I'm hoping to get that done in the next few weeks.

Since I bought the car about a year ago, I would occasionally hear a slight whine (from the pump?) when coming to a stop when the transmission was hot. It got better after doing a full fluid flush, but the noise was still there sometimes.

For around $100, I bought a Derale 13502 cooler, 8ft of 11/32 conti hose, magnefine external cooler, 2x Derale 5/16 compression to 3/8 barb fittings, 5 pack of 3/8 elbow barbs, and a bunch of oetiker clamps.

I cut the original hard lines below the turbo intake hose and installed the compression fittings. The cooler was installed at the bottom of the condenser and the magnefine filter was clamped to an AC line (protected with some spare heater hose).

Eliminating the steel lines to the radiator looks a lot cleaner and makes it easier to service the radiator and intercooler. I don't drive this car in the extreme cold of the winter, so I'm not too concerned about the transmission fluid being too cold.

threewagons said:

Mine is set at 0.1579 and matches the speedo perfectly. My speedo reads about 1-2% faster than GPS on Google maps but I wanted the utcomp to match the car's speedo.

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Amazing, thank you very much

With the intercooler - looks like the end tank hose copped a decent hit. I had the same thing happen with the one I got from Skandix that looks almost identical - was because of being packaged poorly and getting damaged in transit. I had to cut a bunch of material off the top mounting of that one too in order to make it fit. I'd say they all come from the same factory in China given that they all look so similar.

Must be. All they'd have to do is add a few foam blocks to keep the hose bit from getting crushed when the package is dropped on the ends.

The intercooler performs very well though, at speed my intake temp is no more than 6-8 degrees F above ambient temp and maybe 10 degrees at WOT. The original IC would be anywhere from 10-20 degrees higher at speed, and +30F in boost.

I have the DS18B20 sensors in the airbox and cold side pipe, and the temps are almost identical. Sometimes the cold side even is cooler than the airbox.

threewagons said:

Time to fab a new downpipe. I had plenty of leftover pipe from my previous exhaust upgrade but I really could have used another 45 for the lower bend. Instead I had to use a 90 and pie cut it to achieve the proper angle. Clearance with the angled flange was not as difficult as some people have made it sound...

Welded up with a 3" sprung ball joint (highly recommended, decreased resonance into the cabin greatly). I cut off the tab from the original DP and welded it to the 3" pipe where it's supported near the transmission. NBO2 welded in the factory location and WBO2 welded on top for ease of service. (Yeah it's too close to the turbo blah blah blah, I'll let you know when it dies)

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Nice work on the DP! You prefer ball coupler to rigid liner flex style? I'm going to need to fab up a 3" DP for my 19T install - I would normally use flex coupler/vband, Do you feel the ball coupler is a better option? If so, do you have a recommended source?

I think the ball coupler is a better solution because it has more flex and vibration isolation due to the constant spring tension on the bolts and greater articulation than a flex joint. From my observations, most oems use a flex joint for lengthwise articulation on FWD applications (engine torque changes the exhaust length), and ball joints are used when there's a large section of rigid pipe.

I got mine from here https://www.ebay.com/itm/2026611544...Qb6h8YfR1O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If you do use a ball coupler, the flow is directional so keep that in mind, I almost welded mine on backwards

threewagons said:

I think the ball coupler is a better solution because it has more flex and vibration isolation due to the constant spring tension on the bolts and greater articulation than a flex joint. From my observations, most oems use a flex joint for lengthwise articulation on FWD applications (engine torque changes the exhaust length), and ball joints are used when there's a large section of rigid pipe.

I got mine from here https://www.ebay.com/itm/2026611544...Qb6h8YfR1O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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Thank you, I have bought from that vendor before. I would prefer an SS coupler, but they seem to be the exception.

Yes - I was thinking about flow direction - the seat has to be post ball.

threewagons said:

I didn't take as many photos as I should have, but here's my KL Racing intercooler install. One of the flanges was dented pretty badly, so I reached to KL and they offered to refund me 40 euro if I was able to repair it myself. The aluminum was more ductile than I expected, I was able to straighten it with a ball peen hammer in about 2 minutes.

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Forgot to ask - how long did it take for your IC to arrive from Sweden - or did you buy it domestically? Just trying to figure out the normal lead time. They shipped mine the day I bought it, but no tracking updates from the Malmo port...

I bought direct from KL. I got no updates after the port either, but it only took 8 days total. You will have to sign for it.