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Fitting 960 TB on Yoshifab adaptor, 91 740

lookforjoe

Making Volvo Parts Fit
300+ Club
Joined
May 27, 2008
Location
Rockland County, NY
Looking for input on how this is supposed to be handled - I can't find any reference threads or pics that show how this is meant to be connected to the stock throttle linkage. Anyone have this on their LH 700 series?

Reference 960TB install thread

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modded TB to include the 2 EVAP vac sources

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modded stand offs for TPS (more on this later)

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shave standpoffs so TPS shaft seal contacts center bearing surround

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various TB shafts - trying to find one with the correct shaft key for the LH TPS - flipping the shaft doesn't work for LH2.4 TPS, as idle switch operates at 90? to the housing plane

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modded the stock TPS bracket to set TPS @ 90? to the TB plane

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gaskets required

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So, the problem is that the TB is set rotated 90? on the Yoshi adaptor, so no way to connect the stock linkage. It appears that the throttle cable is supposed to attach directly on the adaptor, however that would require a modded lever, and won't work with my auto/cruise setup, unless I'm completely misreading this

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stock bobbin / linkage for reference

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Wow, you went thru WAY more than I did to fit mine.

I grabbed an early TB which already had the fittings for evap. Pulled the throttle shaft, flipped it 180* and notched the other side of it for the TPS, then flipped the TPS and it's mounting bracket 180* to match. Made a custom linkage from a piece of flat stock and a spare ball stud from another linkage I had, made it just a touch longer than the stock c-c on the 230 TB, so it wasn't twitchy. From there it was just a matter of installing.

Biggest issue I had was the coupler, ended up going with the do88 plumbing kit to resolve that.
 
Wow, you went thru WAY more than I did to fit mine.

I grabbed an early TB which already had the fittings for evap. Pulled the throttle shaft, flipped it 180* and notched the other side of it for the TPS,

Ah - I didn't catch where you notched the shaft to accept the revised position - that makes sense now.

Unfortunately that doesn't help with the cable / bobbin issue with the YoshiFab adaptor - that's my main concern. I can fabricate a linkage to transfer axis of leverage, but that can't be the design that was intended....
 
Wow, yeah, somehow I missed the Yoshi adapter bit there. That's WAY different than the NIW one I have. Really appreciate the NIW route now, so much easier to install and a cleaner look when done as well. I'm not sure how that would play out to be honest, seems like the angles are wrong even with the cable straight to the link arm with whatever cobbled solution.

The only thing I could think of is if you had some kind of a spool on the throttle shaft instead of the arm that's on it. For example, something like the B20F throttle spool, basically a half moon so there's some wrap to keep things lined up and the ratio correct, plus it would give an option for using the stock cable if you find the right kind of spool. Hope that made a lick of sense, I can visualize it but words ain't my friend this morning...
 
Wow, yeah, somehow I missed the Yoshi adapter bit there. That's WAY different than the NIW one I have. Really appreciate the NIW route now, so much easier to install and a cleaner look when done as well. I'm not sure how that would play out to be honest, seems like the angles are wrong even with the cable straight to the link arm with whatever cobbled solution.

The only thing I could think of is if you had some kind of a spool on the throttle shaft instead of the arm that's on it. For example, something like the B20F throttle spool, basically a half moon so there's some wrap to keep things lined up and the ratio correct, plus it would give an option for using the stock cable if you find the right kind of spool. Hope that made a lick of sense, I can visualize it but words ain't my friend this morning...


I know what you mean - I have the old axis transfer from the X1/9 - that would be the type of thing I need

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Only problem I had was that one stop thing getting stuck on that nut and stuck full throttle on the 405 third gear all out. Had to turn the key off. 3.31 ratio no rev limit 7k 120mph in third.











Other then that maybe I had to tap the throttle body to be able to bolt on the 2.4 tps is all, that is it, nothing else except for that full throttle grabber, had to grind that so it wouldn't stick..

So to clarify, had to tap the 960 throttle body to bolt on the LH 2.4 tps is all. I did not take anything apart or modify anything else. Also yeah you need that yoshifab throttle wheel thing, yeah and ditch your cruze control and your autotragic and your golden. I bet you didn't count on all those mods to make it work? :-P

AS far as which one is better, the yoshi one add more intake volume and a turn so it makes the air swirly around more and is just way better then bolting one right on the stock spot so take that to your track and run it....

The yoshi stuff is for race cars... IF you want neat looking street show car sheet yeah get that utter stuff.. Like cruze, and automatic. Wow..

My first yoshi 960 adapter put the intake at the back of the alternator on my 740, so I cut the flange off where it bolts to the intake and rotated it to the better above the alternator position and re welded it! Then I sent yoshi a nasty email telling him how great it works on a 240 but is right behind the 740 alternator so he re engineered all the ones he did after that so they then worked over the 740 alternator..

Moral of the story is if you want your tps side turned 90, cut dat yoshi adapter and turn it and re weld it....

Those crappy welds on the intake side of your yoshi adapter make me think, that's my old one I sold.. ha. But I sold it with the throttle wheel thing also, so not sure. I still have all my old tbricks pics, 1000 plus that used to be one here on all my threads until that pic hosting meltdown a few years ago and I got pissed at them wanting money so I deleted my photobucket, dammit, should have left it up. No way for me to redo all my old posts with all those pics... I could but the time required. I spend all my time now days not babysitting, it's called parenting..ha. Where you don't get paid and you don't have time to work or make money..



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vB3c4fRXSwU" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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Also yeah you need that yoshifab throttle wheel thing,

The yoshi stuff is for race cars... IF you want neat looking street show car sheet yeah get that utter stuff.. Like cruze, and automatic. Wow..

Yay! That's the crucial piece of info, thank you. This is my pickup, not a ' street show car' - I'm not doing a manual swap, and I added the cruise :oogle:


Moral of the story is if you want your tps side turned 90, cut dat yoshi adapter and turn it and re weld it....

I could reverse the lever & chop & rotate the neck, and I may end up doing that

Those crappy welds on the intake side of your yoshi adapter make me think, that's my old one I sold.. ha. But I sold it with the throttle wheel thing also, so not sure. I still have all my old tbricks pics, 1000 plus that used to be one here on all my threads until that pic hosting meltdown a few years ago and I got pissed at them wanting money so I deleted my photobucket, dammit, should have left it up. No way for me to redo all my old posts with all those pics... I could but the time required. I spend all my time now days not babysitting, it's called parenting..ha. Where you don't get paid and you don't have time to work or make money..

The flanges were most definately not flat - I levelled them on a coarse belt sander though.

Yeah, I lost 1000's of pic off PB - I also refused to pay for that ****e.

Parenting - yup, my 2 are long since mature adults. Fully self-supporting in their own lives, I wish you the same.
 
Since I have the cable lever from the X1/9, I'm going to try that first before cutting the neck. First time I've ever used a Fiat part on any Volvo, usually it's the other way round :)

Will be along these lines

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I'll cut down one of the spare butterfly shafts, use a Fiat valve guide that is the perfect bore size, and weld a bracket to orient the lever as needed. See how that goes.
 
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I'll dig around and see if I can find the Yoshi throttle wheel, if I have it I'll never use it so can drop it in the mail to ya.
 
OK - this seems to be working out - I thought I might have to also make a new cable for the setup, but as it's going I think it's all going to align nicely. Did this part yesterday:

had to drill & tap (M8x1.25) the spare manifold for the mockup

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valve guide welded to an upright, upright welded to a tie plate that spans the two mount points above

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Cable angle in the lever is good across the range.
Closed
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part throttle
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WOT
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I will likely have to revise the vacuum attachment seen in the this pic - at wide throttle the lever arcs cross the path the hose needs to take

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Today I modded the backside of the Fiat lever to add a ball stud that will align with the stock bobbin.

used a sleeve over the guide, and welded a lever to that

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then welded that to the Fiat lever back piece

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tack welded here

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removed the cable standoff & cleaned up the adaptor flange, welded studs to the 960 TB flange

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Lever & link rod angle through travel range is good

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but... at full bobbin lift, the plate is about 75-80?, not 90?. Stock TB lever here:
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so I made a longer lever at the TB, which drops the lever at the pivot, which hopefully gives me more pull at the bobbin. Didn't check it before I had to put the bobbin back on the pickup, rain coming in. Maybe I have it backwards & the TB lever needs to be shorter, not longer. I'll find out soon enough. EDIT: pretty sure I have it backwards, sketching this out, a shorter lever on the TB would give more travel of the butterfly over the same degree of travel at the added pivot - I think :roll:
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cable angle with longer lever at TB

Closed
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45?
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WOT
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I couldn't wrap my head around the leverage mods I need to get proper travel at the butterfly.

I shortened the lever on the TB, so the pivot pulls it more open than with the stock lever. But.... the travel at the bobbin does not pull the pivot enough to open the butterfly more than about 45?, so about halfway.

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I'm assuming I need to also shorten the lever on the pivot, so the bobbin action will pull the TB lever further open. I'm also assuming that rotating the lever around the pivot will do nothing except increase the required rod length, or would it increase leverage? Does that make sense?
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So I drilled a new hole inboard of the existing, pressed another ball stud in place, and confirmed that the butterfly travel was appropriate

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so, I cut the lever & welded the ball stud in place
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all good!
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I added a port to the adaptor for the idle valve, positioned so a stock idle valve hose (that normally goes up to the intake) would fit. The other element here is that the idle valve I will switch to when I convert to LH2.4 from Regina has a larger ID outlet, so this hose will work for that.
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Realized after running it like this that this layout did not work....
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I reinforced the pivot plate to prevent the shaft flexing in throttle operation
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fitted a 3" 45? tube with silicone couplers . I may make a cleaner fitting one at some point.
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Moved the idle valve port to the aluminum pipe, since it needs to be pre-throttle plate to actually do anything ?????? - and repurposed the larger port for vacuum source for the vacuum pump
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Reworked the last thing I moved - the vacuum pump line - I should never do work that requires too much thought when I'm sick. Had to put the hard line back where I had it originally - the whole point was that it maintain vacuum on the heater circuit & brake booster.

Used the truck for it's intended purpose today - borrowed a 40ft ladder to cut some limbs

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don't have any spare dash light bulbs (1363149?) - so I modded some extra LED's from my X1/9 dash build to fit. Checking the price on those now - I'm glad I did.

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YEah dat Idles speed motor sure does need to be before throttle body on the one side and after on the other. Dat's how it works! Sure looks like that yoshi adapter has been cut and modified before as the one I have is more of a 90 bend all the way.
 
YEah dat Idles speed motor sure does need to be before throttle body on the one side and after on the other. Dat's how it works! Sure looks like that yoshi adapter has been cut and modified before as the one I have is more of a 90 bend all the way.

Yes indeed. Have to stay away from work that requires brain energy when I'm sick, I shouldn't have moved the vacuum pump feed either, so I had to put that back

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The adaptor doesn't look like it's been rewelded, both flanges have similar quality welds, but who knows.
 
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