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Old 11-06-2021, 06:36 AM   #51
cleanflametrap
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...
With this, I think you're solidly back to looking at the CPS and wiring to the EZK box. Have you looked carefully at your CPS bracket (or reached your camera in) to make sure it isn't cracked or otherwise not holding the CPS sensor correctly? IIRC, the CPS tip to flywheel/flexplate clearance should be 1mm (although I don't think you can measure it with the engine installed).
I've run into the opposite issue -- too close, or perhaps CPS made too sensitive, causing ignition way too BTDC. In this post on Brickboard (and the entire thread) I believe sharing that issue helped someone else. https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo...g_starter.html

But your mention of 1mm shocked me into remembering my experiment of shimming the CPS on its bracket, because I never measured the gap -- and 1mm sounds pretty close to a stamped tone ring.
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Old 11-08-2021, 10:12 PM   #52
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Alright I wanted to give some closure to this thread. The car is fixed and running fine now.

It turned out that the brand new Bougicord sensor was totall bad. Even though it passed the EZK's diagnostic every time. And passed the resistance test at the EZK connector. I took it out and replaced it with a cheap Chinese unit I got off of Amazon; this was the last thing I was going to try before learning how to use a scope. The car then fired RIGHT up.

I am extremely disappointed to say the least. Not sure what I can do other than get a refund for the sensor.

Anyway this whole ordeal has left a pretty bad taste in my mouth surrounding these cars, and I learned that they are WAY more complex than I'd initially thought. So if anyone wants to buy a great daily driver 89 wagon with a fantastic interior, lots of handling mods, and a ton of recent maintenance (lol), it's gonna be for sale for like $3200.
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Old 11-09-2021, 02:19 PM   #53
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Glad we could help you get it running.
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Old 11-09-2021, 02:32 PM   #54
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As I've mentioned. I've had bad bougicord sensors rights out of the box. Volvo went through at least two versions of sensors. The original had a yellow marker and then the updated ones used a white marker on the wiring.

Don't let this get you down about these cars. You've just learned a lot about them and they really aren't that complex. I think you did a good job of troubleshooting new to you car stuff and having to do known good component substitution is part of working on most any modern era car.
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Old 11-09-2021, 02:52 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by TriaxialBulls View Post
Alright I wanted to give some closure to this thread. The car is fixed and running fine now.

It turned out that the brand new Bougicord sensor was totall bad. Even though it passed the EZK's diagnostic every time. And passed the resistance test at the EZK connector. I took it out and replaced it with a cheap Chinese unit I got off of Amazon; this was the last thing I was going to try before learning how to use a scope. The car then fired RIGHT up.

I am extremely disappointed to say the least. Not sure what I can do other than get a refund for the sensor.

Anyway this whole ordeal has left a pretty bad taste in my mouth surrounding these cars, and I learned that they are WAY more complex than I'd initially thought. So if anyone wants to buy a great daily driver 89 wagon with a fantastic interior, lots of handling mods, and a ton of recent maintenance (lol), it's gonna be for sale for like $3200.
Based on the results of all your testing that's what I thought it was going to be. I was looking at my shop for a used sensor yesterday to offer to mail to you as a test unit. Art suspected the same thing. These cars are actually easy to fix and maintain. You learned quite a bit about how these 240s work. It will be cake to keep it going from here out.
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Old 11-10-2021, 08:26 PM   #56
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Glad that you got it running again.

I have a brand new spare Bougicord CPS in my trunk. After your experience, I'm certainly going to toss in a junkyard Volvo CPS too.

I'm really curious how the new sensor could measure the correct resistance, and generate enough signal to pass the CPS diag, but not enough signal to fire the plugs at all.

If you still have your bad original sensor, and the bad new sensor, can you try a simple test and see how many paperclips you can pick up with each one? Start with one paperclip hanging down, then see if the magnet is strong enough to pick up a 2nd clip off the end of the 1st clip, and so on. My new Bougicord, and an old CPS with cracked wiring insulation, both barely make it to a chain of 3 clips.
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Old 11-11-2021, 11:45 PM   #57
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Glad that you got it running again.

I have a brand new spare Bougicord CPS in my trunk. After your experience, I'm certainly going to toss in a junkyard Volvo CPS too.

I'm really curious how the new sensor could measure the correct resistance, and generate enough signal to pass the CPS diag, but not enough signal to fire the plugs at all.

If you still have your bad original sensor, and the bad new sensor, can you try a simple test and see how many paperclips you can pick up with each one? Start with one paperclip hanging down, then see if the magnet is strong enough to pick up a 2nd clip off the end of the 1st clip, and so on. My new Bougicord, and an old CPS with cracked wiring insulation, both barely make it to a chain of 3 clips.
I tried the 'paperclip test' earlier today. It held one okay, BARELY held two, and there was no chance it was gonna hold three. So it seems like the sensor is just not magnetized properly from the factory.
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Old 11-13-2021, 09:05 PM   #58
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I’ve been following this thread, I’m glad you got it sorted. I’m not sure how having installed a faulty component means that these cars are actually overly complicated to work on and diagnose. I’ve installed a bad Bosch knock sensor in my 240 and spent a week tracing wiring and scratching my head before someone on here told me to just buy another one and install it. After I STI swapped my brother’s GC8 he was having some issues with AFR’s and it came down to his brand new Denso brand o2. It’s just something that happens to all cars sadly.
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Old 11-13-2021, 10:34 PM   #59
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Try working on modern cars with 30 modules which talk on 8 different data networks thru delicate 22 gauge wiring. I've seen brand new vehicles become undriveable due to one loose terminal from the factory.

You did good diagnosis and narrowed it down to the signal IN to the EZK and fixed it.


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Old 11-13-2021, 11:24 PM   #60
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Iíve been following this thread, Iím glad you got it sorted. Iím not sure how having installed a faulty component means that these cars are actually overly complicated to work on and diagnose. Iíve installed a bad Bosch knock sensor in my 240 and spent a week tracing wiring and scratching my head before someone on here told me to just buy another one and install it. After I STI swapped my brotherís GC8 he was having some issues with AFRís and it came down to his brand new Denso brand o2. Itís just something that happens to all cars sadly.
I never said they were overly complicated. Just much more complicated than I initially realized. You have to realize that I primarily work on fully mechanical Mercedes diesel engines; you could literally remove the battery while the engine is running and it wouldn't even know it. They have their own quirks of course but in terms of simplicity it's way ahead.
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Old 11-14-2021, 12:50 AM   #61
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Never trust ohm readings=good component

Always consider recent work on a vehicle in diagnosis.
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Old 11-14-2021, 03:08 PM   #62
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Try working on modern cars with 30 modules which talk on 8 different data networks thru delicate 22 gauge wiring.
Are you exaggerating? Something tells me you're not. I've heard of car manufacturers bragging about how many miles of wiring are in a car. As if that's something to be proud of.

I gave up ever wanting a car built in this century when I learned that power windows are no longer run by switching a motor. Apparently, the switch sends the user request to one computer, which decides whether the request is ok to fulfill, which sends a signal to a different computer which tells the motor... and so on. Good grief.

Thanks for the reminder about the load-drawing benefit of a test light.
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Old 11-14-2021, 04:49 PM   #63
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Windows operate on a signal wire LIN bus.

Yes, use a test lamp, not a meter.
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Old 11-15-2021, 03:37 PM   #64
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My co-worker is doing a thermostat right now. Step 1: Remove transmission...
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